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EGR valve

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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:52 AM
  #1  
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EGR valve

I need some pointers on changing my EGR valve on my 98 4.0 "X" motor. I know it's simple as can be, because its like, right in front of you. But mine is EXTREMELY rusted, and jeez, it looks like everything is going to break just by trying to get it off.

Anyone got some helpful pointers I can use?
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 03:00 PM
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Ok, firstly, why do you need to remove it?

Soak liberally in PB Blaster.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by KhanTyranitar
Ok, firstly, why do you need to remove it?

Soak liberally in PB Blaster.
I need to replace it because it is not shutting entirely. I've got another thread on here titled "rough idle" if you want to read up at all what's been going on.

I've been on quite an adventure tracking down the problem. Now that I've found it, doesn't seem like it's going to go smoothly.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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I recently replaced both the EGR valve and EGR vacuum solenoid on my 94 Explorer. Before starting I soaked the nut on the EGR exhaust line with liquid wrench. Did that a couple of times with about 2 hours between soakings. Someone on this forum commented the nut on their auto was frozen on and would not loosen. I used a 1 1/8 inch open end wrench and the nut broke loose with hardly no effort. Once the nut was loosened I removed it by hand. Replacing both devices required removing some brackets and care in removing and replacing the vacuum lines. Remember how you take things apart so you put them back in the proper place, especially vacuum lines.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Yeah, liberal use of PB Blaster is your first approach. Give it time to soak in, repeat if needed. It should come right out if you give the PB Blaster time to work.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by explorerjwd
I recently replaced both the EGR valve and EGR vacuum solenoid on my 94 Explorer. Before starting I soaked the nut on the EGR exhaust line with liquid wrench. Did that a couple of times with about 2 hours between soakings. Someone on this forum commented the nut on their auto was frozen on and would not loosen. I used a 1 1/8 inch open end wrench and the nut broke loose with hardly no effort. Once the nut was loosened I removed it by hand. Replacing both devices required removing some brackets and care in removing and replacing the vacuum lines. Remember how you take things apart so you put them back in the proper place, especially vacuum lines.
My EGR vacuum solenoid has already been replaced by the previous owner, about 2 months before I got the truck.

But, do I really have to remove the large nut on the manifold? I thought I could remove that smaller one that screws right into the EGR?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 07:54 AM
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I guess I don't know what large nut on the manifold you are talking about. The nut I referenced is the nut that attaches the EGR exhaust line to the bottom of the EGR. The exhaust line connects the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold on my 94 Explorer.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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The hardline with the orifice for the EGR has a nut on each end, one at the EGR valve and one at the exhaust manifold. This orifice tube has the ports for the DPFE as well. Removing/replacing the EGR valve should not require disconnecting the nut from the manifold.

-Rod
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 03:45 PM
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I dread having to do this man, it looks so damn intimidating. The bolts that hold the EGR to the gasket part don't even look like they have threads on them anymore, the look like rusted exhaust bolts ya know? Where the threads kinda just, disappear?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:15 PM
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Surging going down the road, 98 mountainner

Our 98 Mountaineer with the V6 4.0 surges going down the road.

Any ideas to help zero in on the issue?

It is like you are going down the road at 45 and then all of the sudden away we go.

Just looking for ideas before I pop the hood in this weather.
 
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