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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 11:31 PM
  #46  
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73 ford guy
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From: Victoria , BC
Anyways I said I'd post pics of my setup so here it goes. Keep in mind mine is not all shiny like Chases but thats only cause its been used and tried and true to be badass..




1.5x8 hydro assist ram



I use a 2 wd steering box as it has the best turning radius,strong, and is longer giving a more ideal draglink angle with a 4" drop pitman arm. I drilled and tapped a tester box to find how to run hydro assist on it as nowhere online I could find shows where to do so. Worked perfect and theres definetely some spots where you cannot tap as the box is too thin and wouldnt work as I found out on the tester...



I pipe tap the fittings then also stick weld with a 7018 rod to ensure a good seal. I stick weld as its best to burn out any p/s steering fluid or crap without the chance of porosity(bubbles)
I always carry 2 little proper caps in my glovebox for fittings for if I ever cut a line for the ram I can simply cap fittings and go back to stock power steering

here was my guide to get me close to where I need to tap..



I also took off the steering knuckes and welded gussets in all the corners to prevent breakage for the extra power now from hydro assist. I welded the knuckles with preheat, a high nickel rod for the cast steel, then let it cool over a long period in a bucket of dry sand. I then drilled holes out for tie rod and pressed in a new Hardened sleeve with my machinist and welded again with nickel rod,then used a proper ream to ream hole from the top for a tie rod over flip. It raised the tie rod 3 "s from the stock location. Quick little high"er" steer.



My saginaw pump is not mounted and hanging in this pic. You can see I have a 2 groove pulley to run dual belts with custom made quad engine pulleys for extra reliabilty. The other 2 belts run my custom 160 amp alternator for my winches as a single i was told would slip with the torque from it. It by the way was made to do 100amps at idle!

here is the steering shaft from column where I replaced the JUNK coupler or rag joint in place of a splined ujoint. Way better. Hasnt failed me yet and is a must if your going to go for the best.



I can turn 44's on dry cement with ease now.

and thats how its done boys






And just for fun thought I post a D44 I broke just to get you scared.....lol





 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 11:58 PM
  #47  
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73 ford guy
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From: Victoria , BC
Here was my bros truck I recently finished with the Ultimate cossover but with high steer too with the second arm on the driver side to locate tie rod now over the springs for the ultimate for offroad and clearance. We mounted it with again a 1.5x8 ram and 2wd box. He just never got around to gusseting the knuckles.







this is the setup I'm doing right away. My crossover arm already is made with the extra hole to run it I just need to get another arm,tie rod, and mount ram on top of axle vs diff

Make you wanna get a 60 yet....Haha
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 01:32 PM
  #48  
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
I just don't like to waste my time. .....14 bolt rear ends have a good spring perch as it already has this design. Anyways in my case there is no reason to not overbuild things
I don't consider it a waste of my time, but rather an investment in my vehicle
Yes the 14b spring perches are cool - except when you have to take the time to cut one off. Pain in the ****!!!!!
And I over build things as well. I just do it with multi layers of thinner plate and different design features rather than just throwing thicker plate at it.


Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
Anyways I said I'd post pics of my setup so here it goes. Keep in mind mine is not all shiny like Chases but that's only cause its been used and tried and true to be badass..

I use a 2 wd steering box...
Yes my truck is shiny - but that's because it's still sitting in the shop being built. I was going to do a one project at a time type build and said F that, I'd rather do it once and do it right. Therefore it's taking a while, but when it's driving again it'll be good to go.

Keep an eye on those 2wd steering boxes as they have an overly long sector shaft and are prone to breaking if you throw too much at them. Th idiot PO had on HACKED onto my crew when I got it and I cut that sucker out and put a saginaw in its place.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 02:01 PM
  #49  
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73 ford guy
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I have heard of a sector shaft break once. It would be cool to somehow brace the bottom of it somehow. So far I've had no issues though with lots of hard abuse. I do have 2 spare replacement sector shafts though if it were to break..
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 02:11 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
I have heard of a sector shaft break once. It would be cool to somehow brace the bottom of it somehow. So far I've had no issues though with lots of hard abuse. I do have 2 spare replacement sector shafts though if it were to break..
With the hydro assist odds are you will never have that problem. My frame cracked 2 times before I put the hydro on it and it hasn't cracked since.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 02:13 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
I made mine from some pieces I had laying around and also built a custom mount for triple shocks on it. Cost me next to nothing and works pretty well.

Now this is awesome, I can't wait to see how the drive shaft turns out.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 03:05 AM
  #52  
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That is wrong in SO MANY WAYS! You are kidding right?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #53  
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ChaseTruck754
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
...Ill post my real setup tonight if I get a chance to show you my setup. My previous post pic was a joke if you didn't catch it. Never stack blocks like that under a front spring. That's pic from a "scary steering "thread....
You must have missed this part of a post from earlier in the thread
 
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