Mizsignals, its your truck, drive it off a cliff if you want, but keep it safe on the highway with other drivers!
1/2 or 3/4 ton? (coils or leafs?)
I've heard of that company but havent had any experience, sorry.
Like Chasetruck and Thekingofcows said you can have a local machine shop flatten the top of your original passenger side knuckle in order to attach a steering arm. A less desirable approach that's still effective is an inverted "T", like mine. Not as desirable because it tends to clunk a bit in parking lots, not real noticable but acceptable for the tradeoff in trailer hauling charicteristics (my primary use), and my non-lifted application. I'm looking into a steering arm on top of my knuckle to eliminate the clunk.

Another way, although I believe they wear parts faster than ball joints is a thru bolt (F-911 only here, then still DO YOUR RESEARCH) to a pair of heim jounts or similar. I think Off road unlimited sells crossover kits as well.
The two heim joint way with a thru bolt is probably the best way to do it on a budget and safe, in terms of load handling on the bolts (F-911) and the heim joints, but I've heard wears faster than ball joints and transmits a bit of vibration to the steering wheel.
Hopefully 76F350 will help you out here, he's been very helpful many times with these types of questions.
Lots to learn if modifying your steering system, do some reading.

Edit, I was typing when Thekingofcows and Myklstrng were replying

 

I made mine from some pieces I had laying around and also built a custom mount for triple shocks on it. Cost me next to nothing and works pretty well.

 

That is a priceless picture. Thank you for sharing that.

 

Lol.......

 

this is my homedone cross over steering setup




i have a solid day of labor into it, little bit of custom fab to fit the steering box and doing all the measuring to make sure alignment was done. I have the cost of power steering fluid, 1 new high pressure hose, some clamps.

 

Thanks Bendog, and the rest of the guys showing their crossover steering kits it helps to see how some ppl have done theirs my truck is 3/4 ton with leaf springs here is a few pics i am still in mid process of finishing the lift i still need to order custom u bolts for the front but the kit i was looking at has it mounted on top of the knuckle to help it clear the spring pack and such... but here is pic and i welcome all oppions.. and i dont want to drive my truck off a cliff bendog haha

 

Here is the description of the kit they offer... with the option of the tie rod over the knuckle and close quarters bend if needed..

what do ya think?


#COS6679FSTEERING SYSTEM 66-79 Ford 3/4 & 1-ton pickup 4wd$369.00
Complete Trail-Proof Tie Rod and drag link system, fasteners, hardware, shims, tubing, rod ends and detailed instructions. For converting your oem design to a cross over system. Does not include hi-steer arms which you may need depending on vehicle height and configuration, therefore you must insure a straight line drag link will clear passenger leaf spring.

#TOK6679FTIE ROD OVER KNUCKLE option for above steering system +$15.00 When ordered with above system
Complete Tie Rod over knuckle kit with clearanced separator bushing, F911 bolt and grade-5 slotted nut.

Add $89 per angle (trailproof) for a Close Quarters Bend in the drag link tubing to normalize rod end
misalignment on extreme angle applications. Please specify specific angle required.
Requires upgrade to Stage-II Extreme Duty™ rod ends for maximum strength

 

I got a suggestion for u bolts. First off use a minimum of 9/16 bolts then instead of useing the stock mounting bracket on under side flip your ubolts so the threaded section is at the top for better clearance over rocks, stumps or w/e. All you need is a top plate made of say 5/8 plate with 4 , 5/8 holes(1/16 oversized for 9/16 bolts) then bolt it all up. Ill post my real setup tonight if I get a chance to show you my setup. My previous post pic was a joke if you didn't catch it. Never stack blocks like that under a front spring. That's pic from a "scary steering "thread.
Edit plate needs a center hole for spring pack bolt too...

 

Like this



And steering/fab like that ends up in the "crappy fab" thread we've got going on another forum. Heck, lots of stuff many people here would think is acceptable ends up in that thread. Freakin fab snobs

 

heck yeah!, thats what i will do because i have brand new bolts that came with the lift but didnt fit my spring perch plate so i was gonna order new square style bolts just a bit longer but hey that looks like a better way to do it now i just need to find some 5/8 plate... wonder where i can get that.

 

My plate was 1/2" plate and I'm sure it will be fine.

If I remember right BenDog (I think it was him - it was someone on here) used rear spring plates on his and it worked well. Had I thought of this I probably would have saved the time making these - haha

 

1/2 " plate would be fine too. I went 3/4 but it's what I had at my shop and is way overkill. Rear spring plates would work but alot thinner. Probably like 1/4". I like to really torque my bolts and would be afraid of it bending..

 

73fordguy, that pic was funny i cant understand why some one would do that lol...

 

Yeah - but the rear spring plates are formed/bent so they are actually just about as strong. This goes back to what I was saying earlier about people thinking thicker always means stronger. Give platework a 3rd dimension (a bead rolled in, a dimple die, a bend, etc.) and it becomes very rigid/strong. I'd be fine with running stock spring plates, but if you wanted to make them a little stronger do an 1/8" overlay plate on them!

 

I just dont like to waste my time. With my truck on 44's and a heavy foot I find stupid weak links. Who bends a lift block?Like really. Also when it happened I even bent the spring perches on the axle!! Like WTF. When I redid the axle I went way overkill so it would last forever. I had to cut off the bent spring pads and replace them with new ones(the previous ones were new also) but what I did was weld some 1/2 plate on the front and back open ends so the perch had no way it could collapse and bend on itself again. 14 bolt rear ends have a good spring perch as it already has this design. Anyways in my case there is no reason to not overbuild things