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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 09:54 PM
  #1  
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Turbo question...

Hi there so I am fairly familiar with the 6.9 and 7.3idi's but the powerstroke is a new ball game. I have working with turbo charged cars but not anything this monstrous. I am trading a guy my old 6.9 plus cash for a 99 f450 powerstroke dually 6 speed 216k no mods. The truck is PERFECT it starts up easy idles well and rides smooth, BUT it doesn't seem to be make much boost at all.

If you run the rpms up to around 2500 you can feel a LITTLE bit of pull but thats about it. I looked at some other threads and people were talking about the MAP sensor. The truck blows heavy black smoke at idle when its cold and after that doesn't seem to smoke really at all. No blue or white smoke. I have a obd 2 data logger that I plugged in and it wasn't throwing any codes but at idle-free revving the map sensor read 28 (i'm assuming thats volts). It stayed at 28-28.4. Don't know if that is normal? Could it be a bad boost leak? Not sure I just want a little reasurance from someone that the truck isn't on its last leg. THANKS GUYS!!
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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If the truck fires and idles good and runs great it should be no where near its last legs. These trucks are not all that powerful or fast, they just run great for a long *** time. IIRC they will only pull about 17lbs of boost completely stock. So def not a powerhouse. If you have a boost leak you should be able to see soot somewhere at one of the connections/boots. And if not I know floating around here somewhere is a way to make a DIY boost guage to check for sure.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by KH85
And if not I know floating around here somewhere is a way to make a DIY boost guage to check for sure.
Yeah I have a boost leak tester that I built a while back and that will be one of the first things I do when i get the truck. I just know like with my cars if I have a boost leak the car would run awful idle to wot, but those cars were also being tuned with a MAF instead of a MAP so i don't know if these trucks will still run ok with a boost leak. It definitely is not running to its full power, i've driven other powerstrokes before and they definitely had more power then this one haha.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:36 AM
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Well im no expert for sure, but I think these trucks will run fine with a boost leak, obvioulsy if it is a small leak. Hell sometimes I wonder if I have a tiny boost leak! haha
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:40 AM
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Looks like I have exactly the same truck with similar mileage. My engine is not starting easy unless I crank it for at least 5 seconds, but in normal conditions it never smokes period.
I do get 17 psi boost with newer compressor wheel. Remeber getting only 15 psi with original wicked wheel.
Then when I step on it, I feel real boost right above 2000 rpm.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:44 AM
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Mine never smokes either. If I burry it off the line I might get a tiny bit but its not heavy or dark smoke.

I dont believe these trucks start to build boost til 1900 rpms. Could be very wrong on this though!
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:54 AM
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28 at idle on the MAP sensor seems really off. It may have a bad MAP sensor. Mine only reads 28 when I'm goosing it, at idle it should be in the 13-15 range. If the sensor is reading high, the computer is sensing more air (due to boost) and dumping more fuel into it, which could be causing the black smoke. What's the idle speed and the ICP/IPR readings at idle?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by N4TECguy
28 at idle on the MAP sensor seems really off. It may have a bad MAP sensor. Mine only reads 28 when I'm goosing it, at idle it should be in the 13-15 range. If the sensor is reading high, the computer is sensing more air (due to boost) and dumping more fuel into it, which could be causing the black smoke. What's the idle speed and the ICP/IPR readings at idle?
Like I said I haven't picked up the truck yet but if I remember it was holding steady right around 660-680 rpms at idle. I'm hoping its just a bad MAP sensor and some boost leaks and I can have the truck running tip top in a day.

I guess if there are some boost leaks that could also cause the MAP sensor to read incorrectly also cause it would be calculating for air that is never actually making it into the engine... Thoughts?

Its really hard for me to think that the turbo is bad when it doesn't blow any blue smoke or anything like that, AND I would think if the turbo was shot it just wouldn't boost at all. Like I said at higher rpm you can feel a LITTLE boost but before that its just a dog.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 87f250banks
Like I said I haven't picked up the truck yet but if I remember it was holding steady right around 660-680 rpms at idle. I'm hoping its just a bad MAP sensor and some boost leaks and I can have the truck running tip top in a day.

I guess if there are some boost leaks that could also cause the MAP sensor to read incorrectly also cause it would be calculating for air that is never actually making it into the engine... Thoughts?

Its really hard for me to think that the turbo is bad when it doesn't blow any blue smoke or anything like that, AND I would think if the turbo was shot it just wouldn't boost at all. Like I said at higher rpm you can feel a LITTLE boost but before that its just a dog.
ICP sounds high as well if it's at warm idle, mine is in the high 400 low 500's at idle when warm. When cold (40F oil temp), it can be up to low 800.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 03:16 PM
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Alrighty I'm gonna get this thread moving again. I ended up trading my 87 f250 6.9 for this 99 f450 7.3.

The truck starts right up every morning, it is about 20 degrees out here, I plug the truck in every night. If I go to work or something and the truck sits a while and cools off when I come back out and start it it starts right up like before but it will blow a whiteish blue smoke but it smells like diesel, so don't think its oil.

When I drive the truck sometimes it will have power other times it has no power at all.

I have removed all the intercooler pipes and cleaned and checked them for holes or anything like that. I checked the turbo and it has VERY little shaft play. There are a few nics in the wheel but nothing to affect anything. I have a new fuel filter on the way that will be in tomarrow.

Random power loss?
Blueish white smoke when cold?
Any ideas for me?

Thanks guys!!
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 03:43 PM
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check the UVCH. Intermittent power loss like this could be caused by one or more sides being loose and not having a complete connection.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000ca250
check the UVCH. Intermittent power loss like this could be caused by one or more sides being loose and not having a complete connection.
I'm sorry I'm fairly new to these motors.. What is the UVCH and where is it located?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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Under Valve Cover Harness
They can work their way loose over time usually throwing the check engine light, though my personal truck did not throw a code. Ohm the pins out when the trucks having one of it's "bad" days and see what you get. Here's a little how to compliments of another member. You might benefit from fabbing up your own fuel pressure tester and testing at Wide Open Throttle. You shouldn't see a pressure drop of more than 5 psi or so when you stomp on it.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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I think it would be worth it to pull your valve covers off. Re torque the the injector hold down bolts, rocker arm bolts. Also check to make sure your glow plugs are good and the gpr is working. Your injector o rings could be causing the smoke so that might be something to do as well. Chris posted some good info on this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-shakes.html. Do the 50 cent mod or get a new harness that is not suppose to come loose.

Have you checked the hose that goes from the map sensor to the spider for tears? That would give you performance issues.

I would also consider doing the in tank mods: Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

Sinister diesel sells a kit: Sinister 7.3L Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit

I passed on the filter and went with a cheap 3/8 inch carburetor filter and installed a 3/8 inch grainger fuel shutoff valve.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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If the truck blows a lot of white smoke when starting cold, check your GPs and GPR. If they've never been changed, they're probably pretty tired.

And you don't need to plug it in all night. Anything from 30-60 mins is enough, 2 hours is PLENTY. Having the heater plugged in for 10 hours is like running about 17 60W light bulbs for the same amount of time.
 
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