Ok, so I've finished the dash swap, but I have another issue bugging me. My horns don't work. Never have.

When I got the truck, the tilt wheel was broken, and the ignition switch actuator arm was hosed, and the horns didn't work. Well, me being me, I drove it anyway, because I was able to start the truck if I jiggled the key just right, and didn't put any pressure on the wheel causing it to move up or down while driving. Needless to say, that combination acted as my own custom anti-theft device, as nobody else could possibly drive it that way.

I just assumed the horn problem was related to my column problem. My bad.

So last month I finally broke down and replaced the column with a straight column out of a '84 Bronco. (when the original column finally froze up on me...I was motivated then).

Horns still don't work.

I checked the fuse this morning, and had already verified that both horns were working, as I had tested them previously with a 12v jumper at the horns themselves.

So, starting at the fuse block, what it the order of operation for finding the broken link? Go easy on me here, I'm not very good with wiring stuff yet. If you could be rather specific on how to diagnose this, I would appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

Pull the Horn pad.

Jump the two connections underneath the horn pad and see if the horn sounds.

If it does, then the horn pad itself is suspect.

If it doesn't then the horn brush, (which is a part of the turn signal switch) or wiring suspect.

 

Ok, like I said, I checked the fuse, which was good. One leg of the fuse socket gives me 12v to chassis ground.

1) There is no power at the horn pad, so I have to back up from there, right? Which wire is it from the fuse block to the steering column harness connector? I want to make sure power is getting that far.

2) 'IF' I am feeding 12v to the steering column harness, how do I break it down from there?

Help me with #1 first, and then we'll look at the next step, ok?

Thanks!!

 

I would go to the horn relay next. Mine is mount above the gas peddle; it was bolted to the cruise control box on my truck. Look at one of the online auto parts stores for a photo, it is a silver looking thing.

If the relay is unplugged it would cause the problem you are having.
Jim

 

Is the horn relay in line before, or after the steering column harness?

UPDATE: I had said I wasn't getting power to the horn pad. I was wrong. With the key in "RUN", I get about 3v from the positive connector to column ground. That wouldn't even burp the horns, right?

So, horn relay maybe?

 

Once you find the horn relay you will see it has 3 wires on it, most likely 2 large and one small BLUE wire. The blue wire will go to the steering column and is used to apply a ground to the relay which will then energize the relay making the horn honk.

So when you find the horn relay plug, jumper across the 2 fat wires and the horn should make noise. If that works you will need to follow the blue wire toward the column and keep grounding it different points to make sure the circuit is good.

Once again the first step is finding the horn relay as it might have been removed a long time ago.

Jim

 

Right, I found the horn relay. Two yellow wires on either side, and a blue wire on the terminal in the middle. I'll do the jumper test tomorrow when I have light again. I'll let you know.

 

OK, so I think I got it now.

The horn pad completes a ground circuit that then causes the relay to complete the 12v circuit to the horns. By jumping the 12v circuit to the horns, I eliminate any problem going to the horns. Then all I have to to is verify continuity on the blue wire to one of the posts under the horn pad. Verify continuity from the other post to chassis ground.

Then I can test the pad itself, making sure it will close a circuit from one lead to the other.

This will compartmentalize the horn system, with the relay the central point?

Am I close?

 

Yes I think you got it.
I would add a ground on the blue wire, starting at the relay and move toward the steering wheel horn pad. Testing the horn each time to see if made noise.

 

Yep, sounds all good to me as well.

Let us know what you find out.

 

I found this in another thread, so I just wanted to repost it in case anyone may need it in the future.

I always do really well with visuals.

 

Here's where I'm at this morning.

Jumped across the 12v circuit in the molded connector, and the horns blew. This is a good thing. Connected the connector back to the relay, and applied a ground jumper to the blue wire terminal, and blew a fuse.

Bad relay?

I can't go any further now, as it's Turkey Day, and our NAPA store is closed. Out of 20a fuses, and can't get a new relay until tomorrow.

I hate these inconvenient holidays when I'm working on my truck...

But anyways....HAPPY THANKSGIVING everyone!!

 

as long as you grounded the correct terminal when the fuse blew that would indicate a bad relay. It should have resistance in the coil that keeps the fuse from blowing. If everything else is ok (horn button...) it would blow the fuse when you push the horn button so you either have multiple problems or you grounded the wrong wire in your test.

 

Then I have to assume it's a relay problem, as I'm sure I grounded the correct terminal. When I first located the horn relay yesterday, I noticed that the two yellow wire connectors were correctly applied to the relay, but the blue wire connector was pushed off to one side, thus not connected to the relay.

I'm thinking the PO did this because the relay was blowing fuses, but he wanted to use the cigar lighter which is on the same circuit. Priorities, right?

 

The Blue wire does carry power to activate the cruise control switches (horn pad).

Fully grounding the blue wire is what triggers the relay coil to close the circut for the horn. There may be enough current draw to blow a fuse with the horn pad/cruise control switches out of the circut, there may not be. Just thought I'd mention it though.

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Additional information for other readers with horn problems:
Be aware, anyone else reading this thread, the horn and horn pad without cruise control are wired direct to the horn from the pad, and do not ground like on trucks with cruise. Non-Cruise control also does not have a horn relay. So the info in this thread does not cover trucks without cruise.