Horns don't work, where do I start?
Fully grounding the blue wire is what triggers the relay coil to close the circut for the horn. There may be enough current draw to blow a fuse with the horn pad/cruise control switches out of the circut, there may not be. Just thought I'd mention it though.
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Additional information for other readers with horn problems:
Be aware, anyone else reading this thread, the horn and horn pad without cruise control are wired direct to the horn from the pad, and do not ground like on trucks with cruise. Non-Cruise control also does not have a horn relay. So the info in this thread does not cover trucks without cruise.
Oh CRAP!! Then I really do need help. Couple of week ago I changed out my column because my tilt/cruise control column was all broke up. The cruise unit under the hood had been previously removed, and I don't/wouldn't use it anyway. I replaced it with a column out of an '84 Bronco, no tilt, no cruise. More to my liking and driving style.
So now I'm learning my truck is all wired up wrong?
Can someone help me devise a correct wiring design?
Remove the horn relay. It's not going to be used.
You need to hook the horn wires up direct to the horn pad. (non-cruise horn pad, if you don't have one you need to get one).
Yellow/Light Blue Dot goes direct to the one side of the horn pad. There should be a matching wire going up into the column at the column connector. Make sure this is connected to that wire from where it used to connect to the relay.
The Blue wire goes directly to the horn itself. Tie this directly into the the Yellow/Light Green hash wire that was coming out of the old horn relay.
Does the turn signal switch you are using match the column?
If so the wires should be in the horseshoe column connector at the bottom. There may be some wire color differences we will have to figure out, but nothing too major.
Let me know if there are any questions.
Here is the switch showing the horn brush wires, and the second pic shows the harness. So what I need to do it tie in to the harness leading up to this harness as you stated above, feeding the yellow wire 12v, and to the horns back on the blue wire. At the relay, I've already marked which was the hot wire, and which went out to the horns. The horn pad will now complete that circuit, instead of the relay.
I hope I said that right, but I really do understand what you want me to do. There is a non-cruise pad on the wheel. As long as the horn pad is good, I should be solid?

Here is the switch showing the horn brush wires, and the second pic shows the harness. So what I need to do it tie in to the harness leading up to this harness as you stated above, feeding the yellow wire 12v, and to the horns back on the blue wire. At the relay, I've already marked which was the hot wire, and which went out to the horns. The horn pad will now complete that circuit, instead of the relay.
Anyway, I have good news. While sitting in the cab, watching the rain blow sideways, I pulled the horn pad and tested for continuity across the poles. Got easy contact all across the pad, no sticking, no dead spots.
If there is anyone out there that doesn't have a handy dandy $20 multimeter in their tool box, then get one. You just can NOT work on these older vehicles without one. You will be spending more time chasing your tail, then chasing down problems. They are easy to learn how to use, and you will gain a better understanding of how an automotive electrical system works in the end.
---waiting for the rain to let up---
Last edited by Anafiel; Nov 26, 2010 at 07:47 AM. Reason: grammer correction
If there is anyone out there that doesn't have a handy dandy $20 multimeter in their tool box, then get one. You just can NOT work on these older vehicles without one. You will be spending more time chasing your tail, then chasing down problems. They are easy to learn how to use, and you will gain a better understanding of how an automotive electrical system works in the end.
Thanks for all the help, guys. Works like a charm. I tapped in on the truck side of the blinker harness, that way if I ever need to change the signal switch, it's plug-n-play.
Again, thanks!!
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