my 90 has a ton more goin on with it lol.
auto locking hubs?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
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From: Elk City, OK
auto locking hubs?
i know these d50 hubs are supposed to be auto locking but do not at all. ive gone in my back yard where its a little muddy, threw it in 4h and 4l and it doesnt spin the front at all until i get out and lock them in myself. also for some reason it doesnt go into 4l. i have to take it out of 4wd all together and start 4h then 4l again. any suggestions?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,825
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From: Az
To put in 4l,step on brakes and truck in neutral.Your vac system has a leak,most likely,that's why the hubs aren't locking in.Does your a/c default to defrost when you turn it on?Check the lines that go to the knuckle to see if they are rotted or cracked.Easy fix if it is.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
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From: Elk City, OK
so, you thinking a leaking line or the pump is going bad? is there a usual trouble area i should look first? where is the pump located?
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Steeler Country
There are several things which could be bad beside the lines. The inner seals and electonic module went bad on mine. The module is on the fender near the battery. It applies the vacuum when swtched. Follow the lines up and you will see it. Check here first. If working then the lines, then look at replacing seals. Most go around 50k miles. I got 75k out of mine. The seals require pulling the brakes and axle open. Special tool to seat them is a good idea.Think they were $50-70 bucks. If your auto locking hubs spin to lock by hand easy you are in good shape. They get stuck from grim, then the seals swell when sprayed with an oil to free them. Makes them easy to turn for a short period of time, then worse than when you started.
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other vacuum leak culprit
two other possible culprits for the vacuum leak/not locking the hubs:
1. hub o-rings: $10 kit per tire at napa, and super easy to do. pull your locking hubs off (don't need to remove the wheel to do so) and give them a good servicing/relube, and replace that o-ring. should take you about 30-45 minutes per side. there are a few good videos on ford locking hub servicing on youtube.com if you search for it.
2. other possibility is the yellow o-ring on the hub/bearing assembly. while the o-ring is cheap, replacing it requires pulling the hub/bearing assembly, which can be a process.
i just had my passenger side wheel bearing go out, so i replaced the hub/bearing assembly, seals, yellow o-ring, and serviced the locking hub assembly. i also had to replace the outer axle shaft, as the shot needle bearings destroyed it.
1. hub o-rings: $10 kit per tire at napa, and super easy to do. pull your locking hubs off (don't need to remove the wheel to do so) and give them a good servicing/relube, and replace that o-ring. should take you about 30-45 minutes per side. there are a few good videos on ford locking hub servicing on youtube.com if you search for it.
2. other possibility is the yellow o-ring on the hub/bearing assembly. while the o-ring is cheap, replacing it requires pulling the hub/bearing assembly, which can be a process.
i just had my passenger side wheel bearing go out, so i replaced the hub/bearing assembly, seals, yellow o-ring, and serviced the locking hub assembly. i also had to replace the outer axle shaft, as the shot needle bearings destroyed it.
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