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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 07:07 PM
  #16  
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So basically after it was warm it began starting hard? I'm thinking maybe IPR orings? Wish some others would jump in to make sure you get on the right track.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 07:18 PM
  #17  
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Ya Fordman because I tried it tonight after it cooled a while and it started right up.What it the IPR and where is it.I probably know what it is but not used to abriviations.I will learn quickly from this site.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 06:24 AM
  #18  
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IPR (injector pressure regulator) is on the back side of the hpop. Easier to remove if you take the fuel bowl out. You can buy an oring kit from ford or IH, comes with a couple orings, tin nut, etc. I'd try that first. I'll see if I can find the pic.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 06:28 AM
  #19  
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Check this thread out, pic of the ipr in it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...?highlight=IPR
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 09:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
IPR (injector pressure regulator) is on the back side of the hpop. Easier to remove if you take the fuel bowl out. You can buy an oring kit from ford or IH, comes with a couple orings, tin nut, etc. I'd try that first. I'll see if I can find the pic.
Thanks Fordman I will try that out.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 03:50 AM
  #21  
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From: emporium
when you say hard start what do you mean? just a lot of cranking? is it a slower cranking? my starter did this to me once and it kinda sounds like what your talking about. it didnt seem slow to me because of the fact it got worse over a long period of time. im not talking about a dead battery type of crank but just a little slower than normal. seeing as how you said it runs fine after its started i woundn't think its anything else. i would start and stop it with no problem and then out of the blue it was a no go. wait for the motor to cool down and it would start again.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 09:18 AM
  #22  
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From: Pelham NH
Originally Posted by mountaineer27
when you say hard start what do you mean? just a lot of cranking? is it a slower cranking? my starter did this to me once and it kinda sounds like what your talking about. it didnt seem slow to me because of the fact it got worse over a long period of time. im not talking about a dead battery type of crank but just a little slower than normal. seeing as how you said it runs fine after its started i woundn't think its anything else. i would start and stop it with no problem and then out of the blue it was a no go. wait for the motor to cool down and it would start again.
It seems to crank over fine.Starter does not seem to labor.It is a quick starting cycle.When it warms up it just cranks and cranks.Picked up the IPR rebuild kit like Fordman said,going to try that over the weekend.Thanks for the feedback Mountaineer, will keep that in mind.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 09:50 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
So basically after it was warm it began starting hard? I'm thinking maybe IPR orings? Wish some others would jump in to make sure you get on the right track.
^^^ What 427 Fordman said^^^^ After pulling my IPR out - for a different symptom - I did notice that the oring was "worn/Damaged" and A LOT of threads I read here say...with your symptoms replace the IPR O-ring first cause the oil will thin and find it's way around the o-ring. Yes, it's a given if you want to remove the IPR quickly, then remove the fuel bowl assembly. You can inspect the "Valley of Death" and clean out the area of any lost pocket change... and other items...
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #24  
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From: Pelham NH
Originally Posted by mq1shooter
^^^ What 427 Fordman said^^^^ After pulling my IPR out - for a different symptom - I did notice that the oring was "worn/Damaged" and A LOT of threads I read here say...with your symptoms replace the IPR O-ring first cause the oil will thin and find it's way around the o-ring. Yes, it's a given if you want to remove the IPR quickly, then remove the fuel bowl assembly. You can inspect the "Valley of Death" and clean out the area of any lost pocket change... and other items...
Thanks Shooter,Been in that "Valley of Death" many times,changed fuel pump,all rubber lines,clamps,y tube,all wiring including harness,valve cover gaskets,glow plugs,etc. the list goes on.But I will tell you this 450 is a powerhouse.Its a 95,130000 always garaged and never seen snow,salt.No rust whatsoever.I do not mind at all working on it because everything comes apart so easy.Sorry for the rant.Going to rebuild the IPR tomorrow will keep you guys posted.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:14 PM
  #25  
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From: Livoina,La
This is a pic of the IPR seal kit one of the little orings will have a split in it from the factory
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:29 PM
  #26  
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From: Pelham NH
Originally Posted by fordpride
This is a pic of the IPR seal kit one of the little orings will have a split in it from the factory
That is the kit I bought.I just opened up the kit ya the flat graphite one has a angle split in it.Thanks
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 09:04 PM
  #27  
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From: Phill Mo
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hey my truck did the same thing last year, i did a ipr, wires on covers and it end up being idm, sounds like an idm, my truck would start good 1 or 2 time but like crap after it got warmed up,
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 07:55 AM
  #28  
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From: Pelham NH
Originally Posted by jg96powerstroker
hey my truck did the same thing last year, i did a ipr, wires on covers and it end up being idm, sounds like an idm, my truck would start good 1 or 2 time but like crap after it got warmed up,
What is the IDM ?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 04:07 PM
  #29  
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The idm sends voltage to the injectors, I'm not the elec. wizard but I think that's right. It's on the drivers side fender, 6x8? rectangular box with a elec plug on the front. I'd try the IPR first, then if no success, take the idm off and shake it to see if there is any water in it. If you know of anyone with a 7.3 from a super duty or another obs try their idm if they will let you. Superduty ones just have a little more voltage but work (actually better than ours).

Seems more of an ipr issue to me.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #30  
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UPDATE I rebuilt the IPR this morning,gaskets were shot.There was only half the grafite one left and the little oring was in two pieces.The large one was OK.Changed them all,used everything in the kit.Disasembled the fuel bowl,cleaned it entirely,man was that thing filthy.Put a new fuel filter in it and reasembled everthing.Started right up,took it for a 20 mile crank.Got home turned it off,restarted it and wa la,cranked over in a flash.The truck runs perfect.Even idles smooth now,used to shake a bit before.Throttle response is much better also but that could be from a new fuel filter and clean bowl.Going to work all day tomorrow so that will be the real test.Will update tomorrow.

THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL THE INPUTE.Could not have done it without you guys. David
 
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