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I am replacing a IP soon and was wondering how hard the timing process is once its in place. I dont have a timer, where would one be had for that purpose? tried searchig but wasnt getting any thing
I just went through all of that just weeks ago, Alittle tip: don't remove the housing (where you put the oil in) otherwise timeing for me any way was a chalenge. Finding tdc was the hard part. Also I ended up final timing it by ear because no one in the area has the tools to do the dynamic timing. all in all it wasn't bad. I got a few pics of the ip and injectors if you need any and some links to timing stuff that helped me.
definitely dont take off the ip housing. Leave it in place and take note of the location of the current timing. Put the new ip in the same spot and see how it runs. Then go from there. post up when you are ready and we can guide you through, i think there are vids on youtube as well.
there are 3 nuts holding the pump onto the engine. along with the injection lines. remove the lines from each injector ... remove the 3 nuts ... inside the housing where you put oil there are 3 5/16 12 pt bolts, remove them carefully so one doesnt fall into the engine. the whole assembly will come off like a huge butterfly (some wiggling required). when installing the new pump, there is a dowel/slot in the pump drive gear.
there is a timing mark on the housing on the driver's side aobut 1.5 inches from the top. line up the marks on the pump and housing. that should get it started. those 2 marks will NOT be more than the width of the timing marks to be correct. DONT MOVE THE PUMP for timing with the engine running.
member "icanfixall" on oil burners has a timing rental program! be sure to check it out to save even more and insure it's done properly by doing it yourself.
only a select few shops still have these meters.most who did have them,rather than time by ear for you,sold their non profit making diesel timing meters many years ago of course making it tough to find a shop.then you need to find a shop with someone still around who knows/remembers how to use it.
Anybody on east coast with this gear? I would like to check the timing on my 86 6.9. I have it timed by ear but would really like to do it right. Thanks for any advice.
I bought the Ferret timing adapter that uses a piezo crystal you clamp on the #1 inj line. The adapter converts the pressure pulse in the line to an elec signal where you use a std gasser style timing light. The light will show the timing using the TDC mark on the balancer. It is off, you want 8-9 degrees BTDC, which is about 9/16 inch away from TDC. I just cleaned the area and made a new mark for timing.
The bigger problem is you are working over the hot engine to make the timing adjustments, not the funnest thing to do. It must be at normal hot idle for accurate adjustment.
The light will show the timing using the TDC mark on the balancer. It is off, you want 8-9 degrees BTDC, which is about 9/16 inch away from TDC. I just cleaned the area and made a new mark for timing.
If you use a light capable of changing the timing on the digital display, you set the light to your desired timing, and then use the factory marks. This is the method I use, and takes all the guess work out of making new marks.
If you use a light capable of changing the timing on the digital display, you set the light to your desired timing, and then use the factory marks. This is the method I use, and takes all the guess work out of making new marks.
Yes, a dial back timing light is best to use. But in case someone does not have one, the 9/16 inch away new mark enables an old style timing light to work. For some reason my dial back light would not pick up the Ferret adapter signal, but my cheap battery self-powered light worked good.
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