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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

choosing a cam

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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 04:08 PM
  #16  
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my lift would be changeing from 4.80 to 5.00. No big deal idont think. i think ill be ok considering their new and the cam is not some radical race came. I would be operating it in the 4000 rpm range at most.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 07:14 PM
  #17  
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cam

your driving a truck.hence heavy,the comp rv is what i chose for my 1970 390.works great,lots of low end.i use 5w40 shell rotella diesel oil,because it has a high zinc content.my 02
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 07:40 PM
  #18  
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Not sure how well the Performer RPM intake will work with a lower RPM camshaft but it doesn't seem like the best match to me. Again, talk to the cam grinder and tell them your setup.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 05:09 PM
  #19  
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its a performer not a performer rpm intake. Ive pulled my old cam and noticed my second journal back from the front has a section missing out of it . Its about the size of a pencil eraser. I know this is not good but cam bearings are a lot more forgiving than rod. Should i proceed with swap or pull the motor?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 05:35 PM
  #20  
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My mistake on the intake. Don't know why I thought it was the Performer RPM manifold. The Performer should be better suited to your low-RPM use.

Hard to say what I'd do about the cam without seeing it. Others have probably had more experience with this than me.

Is the damage on the nose of the lobe, on the opening or closing ramp, or on the base circle? Is it broken or just worn off? If it's worn flat, you'll probably get by with a cam change (lifters, too!). If chunks came out, you should probably check for them in your pan. Sure would hate to have chunks getting tossed around by the crankshaft counterweights, or through the screen and into your oil pump.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 06:01 PM
  #21  
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my mistake for not being clearer. The journal or bearing is in the block where the new cam wil slide into, not the cam itself.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 06:49 PM
  #22  
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That's a tough one. Is the damage on the top or bottom half of the bearing? Was it like this before you changed the cam the first time? Maybe it's been like that for thousands and thousands of miles.

Of course, to do it RIGHT, you'd change all the cam bearings. Theoretically, you could change all but the rear one with the motor in the truck if you had the tool (it's a long tool, though, so the radiator, condenser and grille will have to come out). But to get to the rear bearing, a plug has to come out of the back of the block and that means removing the engine.

I'd weigh it against my intentions for the truck. If it's an occasional use vehicle, I might consider leaving it alone. If you need it to be reliable for every day use, it's probably best to do it right the first time. It's one of those things that, depending on where the damage is on the bearing, it might last 100 miles, or 100,000.

Glad I don't have to make that decision. Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 06:39 AM
  #23  
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its on the bottom half but not exactly on the bottom. This is my first cam swap so i assuming i did it when removing cam. It was in pretty tight and when it came free it dropped down. Never would have thought it could have done this much damage. it starts in the middle of the bearing then extends to the end. This really sucks. Im thinking it may be ok for what ill be doing with it but its still a chance ill be taking. I cant see it effecting oil pressure unless it was a big gash. If by chance i decide to replace the bearing what is the tool and proceedure your talking about ? i appreciate your input.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:00 AM
  #24  
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I don't know if buying the tool would make sense from a $$ standpoint. Actually, the ones I'm seeing on eBay aren't as long as I remember; the one on the video is what I've seen in the past.

cam bearing removal tool items - Get great deals on Parts Accessories items on eBay Motors!

YouTube - Cam Bearing Installation on a Ford FE Block

I've always had this work done at a machine shop.

Does the damage extend to the bearing oiling hole? If so, your decision is made for you and the bearing will have to be changed.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:44 AM
  #25  
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Its not near the oil hole. About an inch away up the right hand side. Got a good look today. Ita about a 1/8 of an inch wide then narrows and stretches across the whole bearing. Its not too deep just the top skin taken off. Are these bearings driven out from the front and driven back in from the front? I can borrow the driver from local auto parts store.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 05:27 PM
  #26  
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camshaft???????

On the camshaft once going into the .500 lift range need to check for coil bind. Need to make sure you don't have a problem. ran a comp 268 hyd cam with .494 lift and had some problems with factory heads. coil bind. Later found out the seats weren't cut in correct factory height and engine backfired and caused a small fire. factory push rods were used. need atleast a paperclip clearance .060 or more. Be careful!! just one of those lessons learned along the way. when engine backfired hard, my hair got cooked. funny now but not then, burnt hair don't smell good. I didn't check my coilbind situation at this time. been along time ago. 390 ford 1973 ford f-150 4wd.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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The tool in the video shows the bearings going in but the same tool, I believe, is used to remove the old bearing. Never done it myself so I don't know which way they drive the bearing (forward or rearward) on removal.
 
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