When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Has anyone replced or gapped the cam sensor on a powerchoke yet ?
Mine has gone south or has lost the correct gap at 149k, it runs but once she hot its all over, I pulled a cam sensor trouble code, the crappy haynes manual I have has no mention of it or anything related to it
I believe it needs to be gapped to about 40 thousandths and I know where it is but am unsure about how to gap it, looks to be factory shims between it and the engine block so I assume one or two need to be removed but how do I check the gap while its in the hole ? I could probably use a small piece of clay I guess.
I've never heard of regapping one, but replacement is fairly common once they get over 100,000 miles. Mine went out at 125K, and that's typical. You can get one from International for about $85, or from Ford for about double that. There was a running change made in the CPS in the middle of the '96 model year, so you'll need to know your engine serial number if yours is a '96.
Replacement is as easy as it looks. You pull off the wiring connection, remove the 10mm bolt, work the CPS out of the hole, and install the new one.
Good luck.
Something else I should add, in case someone else is going to replace theirs: the biggest trick to this is getting in the correct position under the truck. I'm serious. You need to be laying so that you're under the right/front corner of the block, with your feet pointing directly at the left/front tire. When you're looking up at the crankshaft pulley, you'll see the CPS at the 10 o'clock position in relation to the crankshaft pulley. The 10mm bolt that holds it on is kinda hidden behind the bracket that holds it on, and the easiest way to get a wrench on that bolt is with a deep socket, or a 2" extension. You'll be working around the serpentine belt, but with the extension, you won't feel like you want to remove the belt. Your light source is best coming down from the top, so a drop light strategically placed will make a huge difference. It's really only about a 10 minute job, but if you don't get situated right, it gets pretty awkward getting the thing out.
I hope this helps y'all. Let me know if I've left anything out.
The original gap was .030 but it has been increased to .040, if you want to check it but, as far as I know it is unnecessary with the latest cam sensors. If your engine serial number is earlier than 375549 you need part number 1825899C99 and if number 375549 or later you need part number 1825899C93. This is a quote from the Update Manual, "The camshaft position sensor circuitry has been updated to be less sensitive of clearance to the trigger wheel." There is no need to worry about the air gap or to use the shims with either of these cam sensors.
Otto-
The symptoms I got were: occasionally dying at idle, or very low speed. At first, this happened about once a week, then it increased to about three times a week, and the speed at which it would happen increased. It got to where the truck was dying as I was slowing down to take a corner in a residential neighborhood, maybe 15-20 mph.
I didn't let it get any worse than that. I changed it that day.
I hope this helps.
Originally posted by Quadzilla You can get one from International for about $85, or from Ford for about double that.
Just talked to an International parts dealer in Las Vegas. He said they're not the same. Just last week he had a guy looking for one (big surprise) and they tried to match it but they couldn't. But hey, at least International is open on Sunday.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.