95 f350 manual t-case. So i tried to put the truck in 4-wheel drive and couldn't move the shifter. I tried sseveral times and didn't want to break it off. I disconnected the linkage and the t-case shifts fine by hand, but even with the linkage disconncted the shifter is stuck and won't move back and forth. Can I remove it and service it, or do I need to replace the shifter.

Thanks a lot

 

Remove the shifter from the t-case and put in in a vise. Lube the bolt where it is suppose to pivot. Keep lubing it and try moving it. A lil at a time. DO NOT BRAKE IT. Ford gets over 300 for that stupid cast aluminum piece. Used ones go for 100+. After you get it moving, remove the bolt and wire wheel it. Then take a plumbers round wire brush and do the inside of the aluminum. I drilled and tapped mine and put a grease fitting in. or you can just put some anti seize or grease on and put back together. I also did a grease fitting on the vertical shaft too

 

Hey Brad, I was thinking of doing exactly what you did to yours to mine. Its not seized yet, but its getting harder & harder to engage. Since you've added the zerks, does it shift much easier?
Roger

 

Mine never actually seized but i broke the end of the aluminum casting where it goes to the steel linkage. You can see a slight blister in the one photo.Got it a lil hot w the TIG.

but yes. Super easy to shift now. takes one finger

 

That's a purdy one Brad!!

You can get to the bolts easy if you unscrew the shifter boot from the floor, slid it up to the ****.
You can get a ratchet/extension/socket on em from there, need a swivel for the rear most bolt IIRC. Unbolt the bracket removing the whole shifter, don't try and remove/service the pivot until you have it out.

Once its off its a prime opertunity to free up the vertical slide action if needed too "Push down for N/4L".

 

thanks for the quick replies guys. I'll give that a shot tomorrow and let ya know how it turns out.

 

Thank you. I removed the shifter and used pb blaster on the sleeve and the bolt. Pulled back the boots and greased up the sleeve to fix the up/down movement. I then removed the bolt, cleaned the bolt and sleeve and greased them both. Reassembled everything and it shifts smooth and easy.

 

Glad we could help. You may need 4wd this winter

 

I'll be doing quite a bit of plowing, so fwd is a must for me. I was worried because on the parts truck I bought the shifter was broken off. Once this one seized up I didn't know if I could bring it back to life.

 

My thread on this topic wasn't getting any attention so I am reviving this one. I broke my shifter assembly and am in the process of disassembling it. I have the mounting bracket and the shifter pivot off the truck but the remainder is still attached to the linkage. Are those little plastic pieces that hold the linkages together removeable (and reusabel) or should I just break them off?

Also, does anyone know the actual part name/number for this assembly so I can try to get it online instead of getting reamed at the parts counter?

Thanks.

 

Dorman part number 600602. Last i seen they were a lil over $150.


As for the little plastic bushings. they are reusable but they tend to get brittle and fall apart. I got new ones off the HEPL rack at advanced, they were a sampler pack

 

Thanks Brad. Found the part on Rock Auto for 144.79.

I'd rep you for the help but you know the deal.

Appreciate all the help.

 

Nice trick/tip there Brad!!!

 

I just ran into this same problem with my '94 F150 5.0 auto 4x4 std cab long bed - my shifter was stuck in the 2H position. While under the truck I had my daughter try to pull back on the shifter, and from that it seemed that the large pivot bolt was the problem. First, I used a prybar and a large screwdriver to pop the front end of the transfer case linkage off of the shifter linkage. Surprisingly, the hard plastic bushing survived this. Unfortunately, I was not able to get a wrench onto the bolt from under the truck ( mine is a 1" bolt - with a torq center ). And when I removed the upper boot with the 4 screws inside the cockpit, there was not enough space to get a socket onto the large bolt. So I got out the cutoff wheel and made 2 small cuts ( maybe 1/2 inch ) perpindicular to the shifter opening, and then hammered back the metal so I could get a socket onto the bolt. I sprayed it liberally with PB Blaster, then I gently used the impact gun to begin to loosen the bolt. It was quite an effort for the impact gun to loosen the bolt, so I ran the gun in both directions many times, as I didn't want to break the bolt anything else. After a few minutes, and some more PB Blaster,the bolt loosened and came out of the tranny, and I removed the entire shifter / mount together. Once out of the truck, it still took some force to turn the bolt enough to remove it from the cast aluminum bracket. Once I had it out, I used a brass cup brush on my drill to clean up the bolt as best as possible, as it was pretty rough-looking. I sprayed the hole in the bracket with more PB blaster, then put a nice coat of white lithium grease all over the inside of the bracket. There is a 2-piece plastic bushing that goes into the bolt hole from both sides, so be careful that you don't damage it. After coating the bolt and threads with some white lithium grease everything went together smoothly. I snugged up the large bolt, straightened the metal I had previously bent to the side, pressed the transfer case linkage back onto the shifter bracket, re-installed the rubber boot, and took her for a test drive. Now the shifter works smoothly, needing only light pressure to go from 2H to 4H. 45 minutes and some PB Blaster and white lithium grease saved me from spending $150 - sweet!!

 

I'd rep ya Brad for that great idea to such a common problem, but it says I have to spread some rep first!



When I got my '94 F150 that thing was broke at the same place as yours Brad, and I to welded back together, wasn't seized thankfully, but lubed it all up real nice, and shifts like butter now! If I ever remove it again, I'll be sure to tap a grease zert in it for sure!


But I got one from a pick and pull junk yard for 20$, that wasn't broken, but was seized, I unseized it and I keep it as a spare.