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Well Never thought I would say this but I love my ebpv,for the last few winters I have not been running my ebpv I gutted it just like most people here also gutted the actuator rod from the ped to get rid of the pesky leaking but my truck never seems to run right in the cold my drive to work is a short one and the truck just cant get to operating temp this is bad for a diesel I have an aux idle controller,203 stat,and usually run 10/30 or lighter oil for the winter but still have the problem of poor running until oil temps get up, so this weekend I figured I would try an experiment I got the Idea from another member here MADVAN I picked up a manual choke cable from the parts store and a used ebpv from the scrap yard put it all together and have been using it for the last couple of days wow what a dif in oil temps,start up smoke, and the way the truck runs It is nice too being able to control the valve myself I use it on initial start up and while waiting at red lights I will use it this winter and when spring comes next year I will put the gutted ebpv back on.
The perks of living in North Western Ontario Canada I guess lol
If you plug it in you most likely will not have that problem and you will get heat a lot quicker and furthermore, 9 out of 10 times you will not have to scrape your windshield (if you leave the HVAC controls in the defrost position).
I have found if I let my truck run at an idle for an hour after start up I still won't have heat- I have to drive it.
I hope your new mod works out for you
I plug in as well but even plugging in with these cold winters up here is not enough I am going to work now it is -3 outside I don,t start to plug in till around - 15 or so fuel is cheeper that Electricity LOL.
I know what you mean. I have my EBPV on a switch on the dash. I always throw it on while warming up. Otherwise it takes forever to get her up to temps.
Tim, I have all my butterfly parts if you want them. I drilled the rivets out when I removed it. I even have the EPBV actuator rod and such.
I have a 1200 RPM high idle, noticed NO difference last year.
We had all those threads on cold starts. I plugged mine back in during that. It just makes a lot more noise during the warm up, but didn't make any difference on how fast it warmed up.
Either way, I'd rather just remove it and not worry about it. Though, the manual way is always a good thing.
Thank William but I will need the whole intact turbo outlet cause mine is welded up I think. Anybody want to trade a stock outlet housing with butterfly for my gutted one? I will pay shipping!
Tim I have no pics I will try get a couple for you but all I did was run the choke cable through the firewall where all my gauges go through out to the engine compartment around the fuel filter housing and to the butterfly I used one of the brackets from the choke kit with the cable jacket bracket bolted to that then unbolted one of the ped bolts and mounted it there, the kit also came with another weird cable holder I used that to grab the little nub the ebpv actuator used to hook to and voila, the funny thing is it reminds me of back in the day with the old carb motors a manual choke was mandatory because the auto choke never worked right lol.
Dave I had mine like that too for awhile but the stupid thing started leaking oil so I just gutted it like most everyone here I was rather fortunate to find what I was looking for at the scrapyard no one here in the Bay seems to have a obs in their yard kinda pi## me off whats it like in your area for getting used parts for your truck?
Thank William but I will need the whole intact turbo outlet cause mine is welded up I think. Anybody want to trade a stock outlet housing with butterfly for my gutted one? I will pay shipping!
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