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ok I have gone through 2 engines in the last 6 years Im wanting to put a 302 in my truck. I know a little about the swap my major consern is the oil pan and pick up tube. where is the sump ft or rear I was going to use a 302 out of my 77 f100 whitch has a ft sump. the truck is a 84 f150 fourwheel drive, any help is aprciated thanks in advance
If I am not mistaken, the 80+ trucks need a rear sump pan and different oil pump pickup tube. The oil dipstick also goes in the side of the block or oil pan, rather than thru the front cover, due to the relocated sump.
Swapping the older engine into the newer chassis can be done by addressing the pan/pickup tube issue, using the proper V8 engine mount perches, and a V8 radiator. Just be sure the flywheel is matched to the correct year engine. Sometime around 1980, the 302 balance was changed. As the 302 is externally balanced, the correct flywheel and harmonic balancer is a must, or the engine will shake itself apart.
thank you, you told me what i had been thinking. I knew about the motor mounts and towers I was told the rad would work though, the one in there is a 3 row
The factory radiator for a 300 has the inlet/outlet reversed from the V8. Depending on which side the water pump connection is on, you may be able to use the 6cyl radiator, or may need to swap to a V8 style.
ok I have gone through 2 engines in the last 6 years
Wow, that's very atypical of the 300-6. Average life is around 15 years, or 250,000 miles.
The flow of a 300 radiator is top left to bottom right.
The flow of a 302 radiator is top right to bottom left.
As for making the 300 Radiator work... You can get universal fit aftermarket radiator hoses. However, It's better to get the proper 302 radiator, as the universal hoses have to be exceptionaly long, and it also looks cheesy.
As 81 Explorer said, that's very uncommon for a 300. I'd be worried about what's actually causing them to die so quickly. If you can kill the 300, let alone two, you'll probably have problems with the 302 also.
Working a 300 hard isn't a typical cause of failure. Short engine life is usually caused by an outside factor, such as carb problems, oiling system issues, cooling system issues, or simply over-revving the engine.
Overheating, and oiling system issues will kill one fairly quick.
Carb problems can lead to excessive ring/piston/cyl bore wear, causing increased oil consumption. In extreme cases, fuel dilution of the oil can also lead to bearing "washout" or spinning.
Over-revving just wears everything out, at an alarmingly quick rate.......
The second engine failure could simply be related to less than ideal rebuild quality.
the 2nd engine was worked hard It did get hotter then it should have once or twice on long steep hills. what do you consider over reving, I never went over 2600 rpm before shifting
Two 300's in six years? Wow. I have an '84, myself, and I still have the original 300 in it. Coming up on either 289,000 or 389,000. My dad can't seem to remember how many times the odometer has rolled over. I'm pretty sure it's 389,000 though. Still runs like a champ, for the most part.
speaking of 300's I have one I want to "bring back" from the dead... actually I think it only has 215000kms on it and it runs like a champ, no smoke or anything. The main problems are oil leaks from valve cover and a recently noisy lifter. The leaks are no prob. but the lifter noise is annoying. I have seafoamed it but I'm thinking lifter replacement. Anyone had any good/bad luck with doing a lifter replacement with no other changes ie: cam or bearings etc.?
speaking of 300's I have one I want to "bring back" from the dead... actually I think it only has 215000kms on it and it runs like a champ, no smoke or anything. The main problems are oil leaks from valve cover and a recently noisy lifter. The leaks are no prob. but the lifter noise is annoying. I have seafoamed it but I'm thinking lifter replacement. Anyone had any good/bad luck with doing a lifter replacement with no other changes ie: cam or bearings etc.?
A "noisy lifter" can be caused by several things. Bad lifter, restricted oil flow to the lifter, worn pushrod/rocker arm, loose rocker (backed off nut/bolt or press-in stud working it's way out), and bad cam being the majority of the reasons.
Replacing lifters without changing cam *can* come back to haunt a person, since a cam lobe and lifter wear into each other when first mated. Used lifters are never a good idea, unless placed back into the same position they came from and mated with the same cam they were used with. New lifters on a used cam is iffy, sometimes it works fine and sometimes the cam fails shortly afterwards. No way to really know if it will hold up or not. Some say it depends on how the new lifters are broke in, and others say that only matters with a new cam and lifters. Hard to really know which side is correct.....
nope not time for a 460 already gone one in my super duty, I started tearing it apart just to see what happend, it droped a valve it looks like it was cracked in the stem and just broke this ever happen to any one before
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