On my current truck, the overflow barb on the top passenger side of the rad. was broken when I got it, so I used some plastic weld with a brass hose barb, and shockingly hehehe it is not sealing up like it should.

1st question. there is never any pressure in the cooling system at any time, can this cause the thermostat to function incorrectly? When I cruise at 60 mph ish for a while it will heat up to about 210 if I hit a little grade and it doesn't want to cool back down untill I either slow down, or go downhill for a while (It never "overheats" I've never seen it over 212) but shouldn't it run around 205 all the time unless I really get in it up a hill with a load?

2nd question. Can I install a 96 or 97 water pump and use the 195 degree thermostat? (I am changing the rad. to one that doesn't leak.)

Thanks guys,

 

My guess is on the first question is yes but I'm not sure. The second one, you can use the newer pump. RRanch just did this a month ago or so. I run the 195 in mine and am real happy where it runs for temps pulling and not.

 

There is nothing wrong with those temps. With a 95 you probably have a 203 thermostat stock and it is designed to run that temp. I changed the pump on my truck to the 95 water pump so I could run a 203 stat from any part store. I would fix the radiator and leave the water pump as is. If you end witha true over heating issue its not the fault of the stat unless its sticking close. more than likely your fan clutch needs to be replaced if you over heat pulling. If you over heat normal driving you have a coolant flow issue.

 

The water pump change is an easy one. All the bolts are the same and everything but make sure you get a new thermostat housing. They never like to come off and on more than once. And be sure to get the correct thermostat. I would recommend a motorcraft one. They do work better and last longer than any other brand. Stupid me kept getting murry ones from oreilleys till a week ago when I did the water pump. Now it actually stays one temperature. Imagine that.
As for the radiator. Youre in for a good time trying to find one. If you have the all metal one now then it's probably a 4 row and there are two companies left that makes them. One has plastic tanks and is real cheap but because of the plastic is out of the question as far as I'm concerned. The other is about 650 bucks retail price. It's nice though.
I got a ready rad brand for 309 dollars because the company claims it was a 4 row. It's not. It's a 3. I was too pissed off to return it because I already had my other one out when I discovered that. I will take it back if it even thinks about overheating though and I gave the manufacturer an earful about false advertising. They said it cools like a 4 row because they have more fins per inch than an original. Well that still doesn't make it a 4 row so STOP saying it is one!

 

Yeah ryan! you tell it!

650 for the right rad?
Alright. I'ma save my pennies then.


And as for the T-stat opening and closing, the engine will overheat if it doesn't open. =)

It just needs heat to expand the wax inside, not pressure. My system is un-pressured, and I have no cooling problems.
I run about 210 down the highway at 70. 215 if I have a trailer.

Soon as I idle down and roll into a town, its down to 190 in a shake of a lambs tail.

 

No pressure either will come from lack of heat or a leak. Probably just a bad radiator cap if you aren't losing coolant. The old ones are 16 pounds. New ones for 96 and up are usually 15 or 16 pounds. Do you have a pressure tester?

Mine was doing the same thing with the temp till I put the motorcraft thermostat in. Any highway driving put it up near the opening temp and as soon as I slowed down it got cold. It's steady now.

 

Thanks for all the input! I already have another good radiator from the "parts truck" I just got. My old rad. is leaking a little coolant at that overflow barb, but not much. It seems like it never has any pressure in the system at all, like I could roll into a gas station after cruising at 60 mph, pop the hood and take the cap off no problem.

I will change the radiator asap, and maybe I'll try one of those Motorcraft thermostats too, were they hard on the pocketbook RRranch?

One more question, I have heard about ELC coolant for these trucks, is this worthwhile? Otherwise what additive is recommended for the green coolant?

Thanks,

 

I wouldn't bother with the elc coolant unless you want to. I just got my additive right at ford, motorcraft brand, takes nearly 2 bottles IIRC if you drain the hole system.

 

the heater bypass tube on top of the water pump changes from npt on the 94-95 to an oring on the 96-97 pumps. Doesnt pressure in the cooling system raise the boiling point of the coolant, 1psi = 3 degrees F
My local ford dealer wanted $45 for a thermostat, I got mine from international for $25. it even has a molded seal on top and bottom so no more stupid leaking square cut oring