I have a 2003 6.0 with 138,000 miles. Truck is stock and never had any problems. 3 months ago I had a code (forget the number now) which showed ICP pressure low. I replaced the ICP and harness since it was oily. Truck started right up and ran fine. 2 weeks ago it just shuttered and died as I was parking at the feed mill. Towed it home and checked secondary fuel filter and pump. Plenty of fuel getting in the bowl and pressure appears good as with the cap partially opened it shot fuel all over the windshield. After reading the tech folder several times I took a stab at the camshaft sensor (cheap) no help. Then I did the IPR test and the voltage was 2.2 KOEO and was fluctuating between .4 and .7 while cranking. Batteries are 1 month old and fully charged. The engine cranks fast. So I changed the IPR no change to the voltage. I took the left valve cover off trying to prepare for an air test. I couldn't see any leaks from looking at the high oil pressure manifold. I was planning to remove that little allen cap screw to make some adapter where I can apply 100 PSI air. I quit as it got dark but that thing is tight. My dilema is that I don't have any means to send voltage to close the IPR. Should I cut the wires and just solder them and heat shrink once I'm done? I don't know which wire is the positive and negative. I read that you can only apply voltage for a short period like 30 secs. Should I remove the right valve cover (passenger) to take a peek? Sorry for the long post. Been reading a lot but haven't found those answers. Any help would be appreciated because I know my dealer will rape me if I tow it there.

 

The voltage is too low when cranking. To me it indicates you have insufficient high pressure oil pressure - leaks or HPOP.

 

What would you suggest is the best method to isolate the problem?

 

Any suggestions about powering up the IPR for my air test? Do I have to cut the wires to prevent feedback to the PCM or can I just skin them to expose the conductors? I'm new at this and I have been reading on this site. This is the best site around which has all the expertise in the world. Once the IPR is closed and I run the air test will I be able to distinguish if there is a leak in one of the fittings or it would be internal to the pump? What would be a clear sign that the pump is bad?

 

I think an air leak would be pretty easy for you to find since you have one valve cover off already. You can unhook the IPR and not have to worry about the PCM. Air it up, apply voltage, and listen............a mechanic's stethascope can help.

 

seeings how you have the early build 6.0 with the round oil supply rails,that dont have a dummy plug,you probably have a seal failed in the front,or gear side, of the hpop.seeings how you have all ready replaced the icp and ipr,my money is on the pump.

 

you can by a new connector for the ipr valve. add soem wires to it and hook it up to the battery. very simple.

the same connector is also used on the vgt silenoid.

if you have a wet loom from a 7.3 injector harness laying around you can use that too. same basic connector with out the weather pac seal.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I asked the dealer for a connector when I bought the IPR and we went through a book of them but couldn't find a match. I'll keep working on it and report my findings. Any idea what the HPOP cost? I haven't researched that yet as I was hoping it would be something simpler. Can I rebuild the pump?

 

they is no conector listed in the catolog. there was a recall on the lcf in like in 06 that has the part number. recall 06s47
but to save you some effort 6E7Z-14S411-A is the pig tail

 

I tried to power up the old IPR but I couldn't feel or see anything moving. I swapped positive and negative and same thing. Was the old IPR just not working. I made a fitting and applied 100 psi of air. Once the oil drained I can hear a big leak but I figured that we can't tell until I can close the IPR. Which wire could I cut to power up the IPR that is on my truck now. I'll order a pig tail Monday but if they don't have it in stuck I would like to complete the air test so I can order all the parts that I need. I would like to finish the job before it gets too cold.

 

simple go unplug the ipr and see what wire has 12v to it with the key on. that will tell you what wire is power and what one is ground.

 

Red or pink wire is B+ to the IPR, which is a fused Hot-In-Run circuit. B- is the yellow with pink striped wire. That circuit is duty cycled by the PCM.

 

Thank you for the help. Shouldn't the old IPR do something when I applied 12volts to it with alligator clips. I just wanted to see it in operation but couldn't feel or see anything. I put an ohmeter on it and I got a reading. I seen a few tiny sparks as I applied the power but that was it. Anyone ever powered one up?

 

Sorry just thought of something. Can I just leave it plugged in and turn the key on? All I have disconnected right now are the FICM, MAF and air filter minder. Should I pull any fuses like fuel pump, glow plug relay? If that doesn't work is it a problem for me to skin the wire and apply 12+ and 12-. If I do this without cutting the wire can it damage the PCM? Sorry for all the questions but I want to be sure I do this right.

 

I would NOT cut or "skin" the wires in any way, shape or form on the engine harness. These engine harnesses are fragile enough as they are to begin with. The default IPR duty cycle at key-on/engine-off is 14.84% duty cycle. To close it, you need to supply 12 volts to it, which will ramp it up to 100% duty cycle, or as close to it as possible. For what it's worth, on any 2003 engine, air testing the high pressure oil system is a royal PITA, which is why many techs (myself included) take a different approach to diagnosing high pressure oil system issues on 2003 engines. If you have the luxury of a new (and known good) IPR, swap it in. If the engine starts and runs, that's your simple fix. If not, you are likely into a high pressure oil pump (as previously posted). For what it's worth, I have removed the top cover and discharge tube off of a few 2003 engines and inserted a rubber-tipped air nozzle directly into the branch tube to check for air leaks. At that point, is where I will know if I'm going "left" or "right" or not at all. Pretty much all times it's "not at all". I highly recommend replacing the top cover as well as the discharge tube if this ends up being the high pressure ol pump. The reason for this is because the replacement top cover (Ford part number 3C3Z-9G805-AA) is updated. There is a machined groove underneath that now prevents the discharge tube from the contacting the under side of the cover, thus rubbing through and creating a high pressure oil system leak path. The discharge tube part number is 3C3Z-9T288-AA. The high pressure oil pump part number is 3C3Z-9A543-AARM if you choose to buy it from Ford. HTH.