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Standing offer - I'll pay for shipping for any auto-hubs that are 'not good'.
I love my auto-hubs. At 330k miles, they work just fine - and in the over 200k I've had this truck, the couple times they didn't lock (get this) I got out and locked'em like the guys with 'manual' hubs do......... I use 4wd all the time, but seldom for more than a few feet at a time. I love being able to unlock the hubs from the cab!!
Btw, manual hubs allow you to shift into 4wd 'on the fly' once they are locked!
Mine could no longer be turned by hand is why I had to replace them. We should be able to work out a deal on shipping them to you. I see the Independence pass sign, are you in the Aspen area?
Another place to look for future knowledge is a 4X4 shop might have working used ones, I had one go bad by breaking inside and I was able to pick one up for $40.00 considering the price of new.
Maybe off topic ...but i always wondered why guys upgrade to the Warn hubs? Its much nicer to lock the hubs from inside the cab...and if they dont work to a vacuum leak or whatever, you can just get out and lock them in yourself liek a warn hub. Seems switching to warns just gets rid of the "auto" feature. Or am i amissing something???
Maybe off topic ...but i always wondered why guys upgrade to the Warm hubs? Its much nicer to lock the hubs from inside the cab...and if they dont work to a vacuum leak or whatever, you can just get out and lock them in yourself liek a warn hub. Seems switching to warns just gets rid of the "auto" feature. Or am i amissing something???
They're nice when they work. Problem is, if you don't use them regularly, they tend to stick in one position or the other. They also don't stay locked 100% of the time unlike the manual hubs unless you physically switch them to lock. Another thing people with auto hubs notice is that there's more "gunk" inside the area behind the hub assembly bearing. The vacuum used to activate the hubs slowly pulls in moisture and dust from the atmosphere corroding and rusting the hub and bearings. Some people have to use pliers or other tools to turn the ****.
The warn hubs are stronger and more reliable. When you lock them in, they're locked.
Mine could no longer be turned by hand is why I had to replace them. We should be able to work out a deal on shipping them to you. I see the Independence pass sign, are you in the Aspen area?
No, but visit every chance I get! Im in Buena Vista right now, but headed back to work in near Amarillo, TX today... We have friends in Aspen and Basalt too!
They're nice when they work. Problem is, if you don't use them regularly, they tend to stick in one position or the other. They also don't stay locked 100% of the time unlike the manual hubs unless you physically switch them to lock. Another thing people with auto hubs notice is that there's more "gunk" inside the area behind the hub assembly bearing. The vacuum used to activate the hubs slowly pulls in moisture and dust from the atmosphere corroding and rusting the hub and bearings. Some people have to use pliers or other tools to turn the ****.
The warn hubs are stronger and more reliable. When you lock them in, they're locked.
That's why I switched. My driver's side hub would not disengage automatically so I had to constantly turn the hub back and forth while spinning the axle to get it to disengage. When I pulled my hubs to clean them/troubleshoot them, I had a ton of gunk in there. With Warn's, I've yet to have an issue. I don't mind getting out and locking them when necessary.
Originally Posted by homesteader
I think I will be getting some warn hubs. Took my stockers off disassembled,cleaned,lubed and still hard to turn.
After doing this a couple of times, I gave up and swapped with the Warn's.
They're nice when they work. Problem is, if you don't use them regularly, they tend to stick in one position or the other. They also don't stay locked 100% of the time unlike the manual hubs unless you physically switch them to lock. Another thing people with auto hubs notice is that there's more "gunk" inside the area behind the hub assembly bearing. The vacuum used to activate the hubs slowly pulls in moisture and dust from the atmosphere corroding and rusting the hub and bearings. Some people have to use pliers or other tools to turn the ****.
The warn hubs are stronger and more reliable. When you lock them in, they're locked.
Ok...makes sense. Let me ask this. On our stock setup we have Auto and On/Lock on our hub. We leave the hubs on AUTO and then when we switch the **** inside the cab to 4hi, it engages the transfer case and gets the front DS spinning while also providing a vacuum to the hubs to pop them in and engage 4wd correct??? Then when we switch the **** inside the cab back to 2WD, the transfer case disengages and DS stops spinning and totally unlocks the hubs.
If we get out and switch the hubs on both wheels to ON/Lock then the HUBS are 100% engaged and locked in all the time??
Then when we turn the **** inside the cab, we ae just engaging the transfer case and front DS. to be in 4wd.
So essentially the stock hubs can and do work like manual hubs if we want them to or have a vacuum leak correct? or is there something i am missing where the truck would not be in 4 x 4 or be a limiting factor?
Just want to make sure as last winter my hubs stopped engaging due to a vacuum leak and i was stranded...and i didn't even think or remember i could have just locked the hubs in maually.
You are correct, you, we can manually lock them. If they are in auto and don't lock by vacum it will go to default and transfer case will not lock in. Manually lock them and you are good as warn, or I would say I have never broke a ford hub.
Ok...makes sense. Let me ask this. On our stock setup we have Auto and On/Lock on our hub. We leave the hubs on AUTO and then when we switch the **** inside the cab to 4hi, it engages the transfer case and gets the front DS spinning while also providing a vacuum to the hubs to pop them in and engage 4wd correct??? Then when we switch the **** inside the cab back to 2WD, the transfer case disengages and DS stops spinning and totally unlocks the hubs.
If I remember correctly, the ESOF hubs once activated will stay locked in until you back up a short distance. Someone can correct me if I am wrong.
The above post was an attempt to add something to silverbullit's post. The reason I changed mine to Warns was the cost of a pair of Warns was cheaper than one ESOF hub and second I could no longer turn mine by hand. I did not know about edpartsguy then.
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