'02 issues - mainly rough idle
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
'02 issues - mainly rough idle
My new '02 (V10, 4x4) is having some issues. I have been reading about similar symptoms on here and their remedies. The main trouble I am having is rough idle.
While siting in park there is a slight shudder and the tach confirms this.
While driving, the shudder is more noticeable but only at mid throttle range. You can baby it or go full and it will not do it. Are these two related?
I replaced the IAC valve thinking this might help. No change.
I have read that a cracked coil boot, grounding out, can be the cause of this too. Other than inspecting each boot itself visually is there a machine or computer that could verify this problem before I go and replace coils?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Andrew
While siting in park there is a slight shudder and the tach confirms this.
While driving, the shudder is more noticeable but only at mid throttle range. You can baby it or go full and it will not do it. Are these two related?
I replaced the IAC valve thinking this might help. No change.
I have read that a cracked coil boot, grounding out, can be the cause of this too. Other than inspecting each boot itself visually is there a machine or computer that could verify this problem before I go and replace coils?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Andrew
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 473
Likes: 1
From: Rowlett,TX
A code reader is going to tell you if this is happening. On my first bad COP I didn't throw a check engine light but the code was there for the reader, the 2nd time it threw a check engine light. Have you had a diagnostic done on it? Some shops will do this for free, autozone and oreilly usually do them for free as well.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Preston co. WV
Not sure, but if it was a bad coilpack it should throw a code or at least light the check engine light.
I recently had similar symptoms and had a friend w/a scanner look it over. The only thing we could come up with was a bad reading on the maf censor. it cost $200 to replace it so check it out first before jumping in. Maybe swap it out with a friends to see if it makes a diff. Oh yeah, when I did mine it still ran crappy after I swapped it out with a new one, till I disconnected the battery for a few min. ( In a hurry, figured I could skip that step....WRONG!!) after the comp. was reset it smoothed right out.
Hope that gives you something to on.
I recently had similar symptoms and had a friend w/a scanner look it over. The only thing we could come up with was a bad reading on the maf censor. it cost $200 to replace it so check it out first before jumping in. Maybe swap it out with a friends to see if it makes a diff. Oh yeah, when I did mine it still ran crappy after I swapped it out with a new one, till I disconnected the battery for a few min. ( In a hurry, figured I could skip that step....WRONG!!) after the comp. was reset it smoothed right out.
Hope that gives you something to on.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Mark:
Ok, I had not read that yet.
Do you remember what the code is it will throw by chance?
Will it tell me which COP(s) exactly?
I'll run it in to the Zone and see what they find.
Rick:
Do you mean a regular code scanner like Mark was mentioning or something else?
Thanks so much!
Andrew
Ok, I had not read that yet.
Do you remember what the code is it will throw by chance?
Will it tell me which COP(s) exactly?
I'll run it in to the Zone and see what they find.
Rick:
Do you mean a regular code scanner like Mark was mentioning or something else?
Thanks so much!
Andrew
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Preston co. WV
I believe that most scanners would detect a bad coilpack, or rather a misfiring cylinder.
then you could go from there. mine didn't throw a code, and Im not sure what kind of scanner he had, but he went thru all the systems and found that the MAF sensor was very erratic when revvvving the engine slowly. When we got around 2000-2200 rpm it starting jumping up and down like a miss would do. (not sure if that makes sence or not ) thats why I let him test it instead of me. LOL
then you could go from there. mine didn't throw a code, and Im not sure what kind of scanner he had, but he went thru all the systems and found that the MAF sensor was very erratic when revvvving the engine slowly. When we got around 2000-2200 rpm it starting jumping up and down like a miss would do. (not sure if that makes sence or not ) thats why I let him test it instead of me. LOL
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 473
Likes: 1
From: Rowlett,TX
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,885
Likes: 26
From: Chino, California
You can clean the MAF sensor with some spray electronics cleaner. Spray it good, but don't break the wire. Let it dry for a couple of hours and replace. Sometimes that helps. It gets built up with dust and messes up the reading.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 18
From: The Great White North!
Welcome to FTE!
Just remember to dis connect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer after you try something different. Other wise the comp might not catch that anything has changed.
Checking the boots individually might not be such a bad idea. Let you get a chance to check out inside the long shaft to were the plug goes to see if they are clean or not. Maybe even pull out one or two plugs in the easier to reach front area and check to see if they are ok. Unless you know when and even if they have been replaced.
I don't think the generic code readers will give you any miss fire info. Just check for generic codes. You would need something with the ford package, or more than generic to get miss fire info, maf readings and other details.
Just remember to dis connect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer after you try something different. Other wise the comp might not catch that anything has changed.
Checking the boots individually might not be such a bad idea. Let you get a chance to check out inside the long shaft to were the plug goes to see if they are clean or not. Maybe even pull out one or two plugs in the easier to reach front area and check to see if they are ok. Unless you know when and even if they have been replaced.
I don't think the generic code readers will give you any miss fire info. Just check for generic codes. You would need something with the ford package, or more than generic to get miss fire info, maf readings and other details.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Thanks to everybody who posted here, and all the ancient posts I read as well. I went to AutoZone and left with a "cylinder 9 misfire" code. Since it was only one I took the gamble on a new coil pack. That did the trick. No more rough idle or rough acceleration.
I am planning on checking a few plugs here soon. How often should you change them? I bet they are originals.
This place is the BEST!
Andrew
I am planning on checking a few plugs here soon. How often should you change them? I bet they are originals.
This place is the BEST!
Andrew
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 18
From: The Great White North!
Thats great that they were able to come up with the right cylinder for ya to diagnose.
I think ford has in the service manual 100K for the plugs, but many change before. If you search for plug change you will have lots of info and pictures to get the job done.
I think ford has in the service manual 100K for the plugs, but many change before. If you search for plug change you will have lots of info and pictures to get the job done.
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Glad to hear that you solved it!!
I changed mine around 70k miles...and a few of them were quite worn. So I personally wouldn't wait until 100k, plus we the biggest & aren't the most fuel eff. vehicles - so I think everything helps.
Look around...you might happen to find a great deal online for them. I found mine on Ebay, took a stab at a different set/brand than others had recommended and haven't had an issue with them.
Good Luck!!
I changed mine around 70k miles...and a few of them were quite worn. So I personally wouldn't wait until 100k, plus we the biggest & aren't the most fuel eff. vehicles - so I think everything helps.
Look around...you might happen to find a great deal online for them. I found mine on Ebay, took a stab at a different set/brand than others had recommended and haven't had an issue with them.
Good Luck!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trouble_truck_guy
2004 - 2008 F150
3
Jan 15, 2013 03:03 PM
chamblizi
Ranchero & 1961 - 1967 Econoline
10
May 7, 2012 08:14 PM
Mr. Andrew
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
21
Feb 11, 2008 05:01 PM
