is there a online manual or video to reference before I begin changing injectors on my 7.3 idi turbo?

 

I would check FTE pre powerstroke forum, undoubtedly the best manual going for these rigs.

Sorry I just couldn't help it.

Try a search, it is pretty straight forward unless one screws off in the head, another reason I like buying new instead of rebuilt. You can always make a puller with an old one.

Also look at the threads on on installing return line kits as that is half of the job right there.

Then if you don't understand anything or have any questions, just ask.

 

1, remove the intake filter assy, bolts are inside under the filter, (5/8) CDR vent tube comes off too.
2, loosen all the (7/16) injector line clamps,
3, loosen all injector nuts(5/8),
4, carefully remove the return line caps and hoses. you just need to lift them up and out of the way of the injector, they dont need to move far just off the injector,
5, remove the bolts of the Glow Plug Controller, (7/16) and push out of the way if needed
6, large socket wrench and one inch socket with a 4" extension to remove the injectors
7, remove drivers side injectors, then passengers side, or whatever way you want, just me methodical. Make sure all copper washers come out with the injector. if not get a small piece of wire with a hook on the end, needs to be small, then just dip it down and pull the washer out by hooking it. Or shop vac it out haha, i shop vac all the injector bores regardless.
8, get new injector, install new orings, 2 per injector, install new copper washer on tip with small dab of grease, coat threads with antiseize, thin coat, and install carefully ensuring washer stays in place. torque down to about 45 or 50 ft/lbs, not the 35 that is recommended in books. they will leak a lot of the time at 35.
9. after all of then are installed, re install the return lines by pressing down with even pressure at the top of the cap, not the barbs or hoses. twisting while pressing is a solid method and you will feel it slip or pop into place. then install the injector lines, making damn sure to not cross thread, secure them tight but dont overdo it or you will crack a cap.
10, here i would fire it without the intake in place, just make sure it is clean around the intake of the turbo, so shop vac away. then fire it up. check for leaks. have someone crank while you press the schrader valve on the side of the filter head assy and it will make life a lot easier on the starter. Once all lines are seated and not leaking, shut it down, install filter assy and you are rollin. if i forgot something, add it in! i think i got everything...oh install those injector line clamps again after you hook up the lines.

hope it all works, should take no more than 4 hours alone. on my N/A i can pull it off in an hour.

 

Thanks that's awesome

 

Make sure you keep everything clean. I would suggest getting a shotgun cleaning kit(about $10 at walmart) to clean out your injector bores before putting in the new injectors. I also took a section of vacumn hose and wrapped one end with tape so it fit snugly in a shop vac hose and used it to vacumn out the bores.

 

yeah buddy of mine here just said that the seafoam deep creep will work wonders in the bores. might be a good one, that and it wont hurt anything since its mainly petroleum. breaks up carbon like no ones business so soot is a gonner too.

 

I started my truck today less air cleaner and turbo plumbing after installing all new injectors, return lines and pump. Its leaking from the return line bushings on the second from the front injectors on both sides. Any ideas? could it be feeding to much fuel since the turbo is not hooked up. I'm sure hoping I don't have to take everything back apart for two injectors. could it possibly take time for the O-rings to seal against those plastic bushings?

 

no its definitly O-Rings or Caps...did you use a new return line kit?

 

yes bought the $20 kit from Pensacola in fact all the parts came from them

 

You'll have to pop those caps off and try again. It's possible you nicked an o-ring, another issue is some caps have a little bit of sharp plastic inside that needs trimmed off. Good luck!

 

Ok the return lines and caps are leak free but now I see the the two injectors on the passenger side from the firewall squirt fuel straight up between the fuel line and cap that screws on to the injector. What the heck is causing that please :-0

 

They're either not seated properly or not tight enough. Take the lines back off the injector. The end of the line is tapered and meant to sit in the seat on the injector. GENTLY persuade it to sit in there, then thread the nut down. You should be able to thread it down almost all the way by hand. Don't be afraid to push down on the line a bit to get it to seat while threading the nut. Cinch it up with the 5/8" wrench. It's best to tighten a bit, loosen, tighten a bit more, loosen, then tighten fully.

Mike