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do i need the fuel heater?

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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 02:50 PM
  #1  
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From: lafayette tn
do i need the fuel heater?

Can I just plug that hole somehow and eliminate the fuel heater? Can't get o-rings locally and I need to hit the road tomorrow!
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Short answer no you don't need it.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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Nope, it is not needed for the engine to operate properly. Problem with what you plan on doing is, however, the exact execution - in other words, how you plan on plugging the hole?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 04:50 PM
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From: lafayette tn
Not sure? Haven't taken it off yet to see what I'm up against. Any ideas?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by joelswork
Not sure? Haven't taken it off yet to see what I'm up against. Any ideas?
Why don't you try to match the oring up with a generic set or A/C o-rings or something.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 87crewdually
Why don't you try to match the oring up with a generic set or A/C o-rings or something.
That's what I'd be doing too...
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 05:54 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
lafayette tn

Tri-State International Trucks
39 miles
191 Parker Ave
Bowling Green, Kentucky 42102
United States
(270) 843-9031

you need part #1811053C1 about 2 bucks.

ya just gotta love the net.

two more in case the first one doesn't have it:

Landmark International Trucks, Inc.
42 miles
8220 Roberts Mathews Highway
Cookeville, Tennessee 38506
United States
(931) 738-0480

Cumberland International Trucks, Inc.
45 miles
1901 Lebanon Pike
Nashville, Tennessee 37210
United States
(615) 256-4633

thanks to OBN member "icanfixall"
and:
http://www.navistar.com/Trucks/Find+a+Dealer#

but its just a basic o-ring right? id just grab one at local hardware store probably too.


yeah i know.i really need it to snow now,so i can get back out of the house and do something.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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From: lafayette tn
Sweet!

That rocks! Heading to cookville tomorrow anyway, now how long is this gonna take to swap? I'm leaving tomorrow moring for DC, then back home to tennessee for a few hours friday and back to Texas friday night/saturday morning. Looks like I'll have to make some time in there somewhere, got a little diesel smell coming in the doghouse but the start/stall/try to start/try to start/try to start/start...sucks in the mornings!

Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
lafayette tn

Tri-State International Trucks
39 miles
191 Parker Ave
Bowling Green, Kentucky 42102
United States
(270) 843-9031

you need part #1811053C1 about 2 bucks.

ya just gotta love the net.

two more in case the first one doesn't have it:

Landmark International Trucks, Inc.
42 miles
8220 Roberts Mathews Highway
Cookeville, Tennessee 38506
United States
(931) 738-0480

Cumberland International Trucks, Inc.
45 miles
1901 Lebanon Pike
Nashville, Tennessee 37210
United States
(615) 256-4633

thanks to OBN member "icanfixall"
and:
International Truck and Engine Corporation

but its just a basic o-ring right? id just grab one at local hardware store probably too.


yeah i know.i really need it to snow now,so i can get back out of the house and do something.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
you need part #1811053C1 about 2 bucks.
Which o-ring is that one tho, the one between the filter head and the connector housing, or the small evil one between the connector housing and the spade-terminal?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #10  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
oo i don't know.
here LCAM:
Oilburners.net

though i first found this info in this one(which has the same basic info):
Oilburners.net

Originally Posted by icanfixall
You have an o-ring that seals this connection off. They dry out and you end up with a leak. International has these o-rings for around $2.00 each. All you need is one. Its easy to replace. First remove the filter. Then remove the wire connecter. Now use a 1 inch wrench on the filter internal threaded mount. When thats off the heating element will drop down. Then dig out the bad o-ring with a dental pick tool carefully as to not do damage to the aluminum housing. Install a new o-ring and grease up the heater connecter that fits back up in the head. Return all the removed parts and your done... The part number is 1811053C1.
this is likely all here too.but since that first thread was fresh in my mind,i didn't bother searching here lol.
the other one,the guy just refreshed and brought to the top,so i see that now too.
he probably reads here too,and this thread reminded him to say thanks in his old thread haha.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 08:22 PM
  #11  
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That's the large o-ring then, the one between the filter head and the connector housing. It is what seems to leak most often tho, so maybe it will work for Joel too. If it's the spade terminal leaking, my plan of attack would involve cleaning and drying it completely, then filling it up with JB-weld and leaving the wire taped off.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 02:57 AM
  #12  
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From: Duluth, Mn.
Oilburners.net
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 09:25 PM
  #13  
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From: So. Jersey
Here's some of OUR info. SEE POST 24
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ixingit-2.html
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 10:23 PM
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Crew says our info is the info to use. lol
 
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 01:03 PM
  #15  
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From: Jacksonville Florida
Originally Posted by LCAM-01XA
Nope, it is not needed for the engine to operate properly. Problem with what you plan on doing is, however, the exact execution - in other words, how you plan on plugging the hole?
If it is not needed then purpose does it actually serve other than being a source of leaks that need to be fixed. I have no problem spending the money to get the correct part but if it is like an appendix, no real purpose, then why have it at all?
 
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