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hey guys,
I just noticed this last weekend while hauling wood that Thumper isn't registering a temp on the guage cluster... If it is registering the temp is super low... Any thoughts? do I have a sensor I need to replace? I don't have any CEL's...
Do not drive a vehicle that doesnt have an operating temperature gauge without checking the coolant level ! The gauge could not be working because of low coolant in the cooling system.
If the coolant is at a good level-check the temperature gauge sender by shorting the temperature sender lead to a ground when the gauges are turned on. A good gauge and wiring will show the temperature as completely in the hot extreme on the gauge when the lead is shorted to ground. If it does-the sender is bad and replace it.
I had already been keeping an eye on the fluids so the rad. fluid being short is not the problem. I'll try and locate the sender and short it to the block or fender...
I should have added to my original post: If the gauge and wiring is good --it could not be just the sender-but the thermostat could be the reason for the low temperature.
Does the heater still blow hot? Is the upper radiator hose hot after running the truck for 10 minutes? If so ----the thermostat would seem to be good and the temp sender may be the source of the trouble-if the short to ground shows the gauge and wiring to be good.
got it... the truck does blow hot... Kinda... I need to fix my damper flap... It's kinda stuck in between right now and I need to replace a few of the hoses off the heater core. Just checked the coolant temp sender on rock auto... there is a temp sensor and a temp sender... I may just replace both... LOL... It's under $20 for both...
Just realize-that if you replace the original American made sensor/sender that may still be good-that the replacement sensor/sender will be Chinese made and will have only about 20 percent of the life of the American made sensor/sender.
It may be the gauge itself, I just replaced both sensor and sender, the gauge is still not reading. So now I narrowed it down between wiring and the gauge itself. Only After I changed them and it didn't work did I try gounding it, Not suprisingly the gauge still read cold.
I just decided to replace both without grounding it to check, I would definitly do the check first before wasting time & money on parts you may not need and maybe of cheeper quality.
10-4... I need to do a weekends work on her anyway. the blend door in the air duct needs to be fixed, and my speedo is still jumping... needing to get the drive and driven gears for the speedo yet... I might just decide to finally put in the a-pilar guage column so i can add 3 extra autometer guages... we'll see...
To say that my old 1995 Ford F-150 XL Temp Guage was never working when i first bought it that yeah with only 4 miles on it, it wasn't working i was just thinking that is how they were but when that truck over heated this pass year it went up very little, so thats how i know it over heated.
bumping my old post... I replaced the temp sensor on the water neck b/c i realized that i had a new one on the shelf for the 351w (same part number and interchangable)... well that didn't fix the problem so now i have either a wiring prob, guage prob, or the temp sender prob.
I don't think it's the guage because it came up to the top of the "C" when i ran it for 15min last night... To be sure and check the guage and wiring, do I ground the "temp sender" or "temp sensor" wire(s) to the block? I know what the sensor looks like, but if anyone knows which side and whether front or back of block that would help me out 2-4 mins in locating it...
If the guage pegs out I'm guessing most likely replace the sender... Oh and to Phoneman91's comment about chinese sensors... I only buy Borg Warner (American Made) sensors with lifetime warrenty
The temp sensor(in the water neck) has no affect at all on the dash gauge so you wasted your time there. The dash gauge is driven from it's own sender and on the 4.9 it's down under the intake on the side of the block, it has a single wire pushed on over a stud. The factory senders all produce low readings on the gauge but some replacements produce more normal readings.
The temp sensor(in the water neck) has no affect at all on the dash gauge so you wasted your time there. The dash gauge is driven from it's own sender and on the 4.9 it's down under the intake on the side of the block, it has a single wire pushed on over a stud. The factory senders all produce low readings on the gauge but some replacements produce more normal readings.
Ok so i'm going to assume a couple things then. The Sender wire is the one I ground to the block to see if it pegs the guage. Second I will assume the temp sensor is needed by the computer for some reason?
Paul I was wondering since you seem to always have the answers... This is totally unrelated to this post but... Is the resistor you jump to get real Oil pressure in the same location on the back of the 87-91 dashes the same, when compaired to the 92-97 dashes???? I have a pic of a 92 that has been jumped... I am planning on taking my dash apart tonight to fix but don't want a ton of down time if i can't figure out which resistor i need to jump. The old thread with pic... here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ure-gauge.html
I know this might be an annoyance to some but I wanted to close the thread by conveying what the problem and solution was.
As usual Paul is always right! The temp sensor has nothing to do with the guage reading (that wasn't in question though). I found the Temp Sender on the back passenger side of the block right uner the manifold. In fact you can't see it because it's right up under the rear of the manifold. I pulled the wire off the sender and the exterior coating fell apart... This did make it easy to try and ground the wire to the block. The fiance confirmed the guage pegged out when i grounded the wire. I replaced the sender and all is working 100% with my temp needle right on the "O-R" in Normal. I'd like to remind anyone reading this in the future you are removing essentially a plug from the water jacket inside the block... IE antifreeze will spill out when removed; just be ready to slide the new sender in quick and have some oil/quick dry handy to soak up the spill... You really can't count on hitting a bucket or pan since the antifreeze splashes off everything. Just a little FYI!
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