I have to change the passenger side lower ball joints. Apparently all the other ones are good except that one. Now for the questions: I am a pretty auto mechanic savvy guy, but reading the write ups on changing ball joints seem a little much for my garage, I know I have the tools for it, but it just seems really difficult for me! Is it really as invasive as it seems? What is the worst case senario of not changing them or waiting a really long time (estimated time; the end of January if I let a shop do it), and what kind should I get?

2003 Ford Excursion 6.0L 4X4 189,000+ on here!

 

If you can follow directions... It's not really that difficult. Below is a cut and paste from my "It's my turn" ball joint post.

Another helpful thing that I did... Take a few pics with your digital camera and print off a couple of 8x10's and tape them to the fender so you don't make the mistake of forgetting to put your brake dust shields back on... and on the correct way.

Also, don't waste your time replacing just one side... do both sides!!



Here's some helpful hints and the links to into I used.

1.) Racerguy's thread was what gave me the confidence to do the job.

How to replace your Super Duty Ball Joints - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts F

...and yes, I read each and every post.


2.) This write up was the BEST... lots of pics and info.

2004 F250 Ball Joint Replacement


3.) Another "how to"...

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com


4.) Mercury45 did a write up too...

http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/ball.pdf


5.) SUPERDUTYPSD did a write up worth reading too...

Ball Joint Replacement Write-Up For Ford F250 F350 Superduty

6.) And finally, Guzzle's needle bearing lube site was copied "just in case".

Guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page


7.) Here's where I got the knuckle seal driver (a decent price-$60) It's steel and it worked like a charm.

OTC 6695 Vacuum Seal Installer OTC6695


8.) Some good answers to questions that reinforced info from other sites...

Tight Ball Joints? - Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com


I got my "rental" tools from Advance Auto. The Ball Joint kit is the heavy duty type with a retail value of $169... it had all the parts needed... it was extra-heavy duty. I got the 2 / 3 Clawed puller too... I used the 3 inch and 2 claws for the tie-rod ends and the 3 clawed 6 inch parts to pull the hubs. GET THIS... without it, I know it would have been a itch to get them off.

To pound off the knuckle I went to Autozone and got the #27021 Pitman Arm Puller. It was wide enough and took the punishment of my 8 pound BFH like a trooper. This tool was a "free rental" too.

I got my Moog greaseable Ball joints here:

Powerstrokeshop.com

The kit does not include the autohub O-rings so I went to my local FoMoGuy and got them for 12 bucks.

I went to Sears and got the 1 1/8 socket for the upper and got the 33mm socket for the lower nut at Autozone... BTW... the Moogs upper and lower nuts are both 33mm.

While I was at Sears I picked up their biggest 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and their best snap-ring plyers. (both were around 26 bucks each).

You can never have enough tools in the tool cabinet!!!

Of course... I have a big air-compressor and air tools (a must to use the ball-joint press.)


Good Luck!!!