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Maybe installing my split exh-manifold soon once I get a Cat and Muffler. Ford service manual reads to remove the intake/exhaust manifolds as an assembly. Can't remove just the log-exhaust piece by itself? Thks
As pointed out, the gasket is integrated. You will have to remove both as an assembly, as the intake and exhaust manifolds are bolted together.
That said, you also need to make some sort of provision for supllying some heat to underside of the intake, once the stock exhaust manifold is gone. This topic has been covered many times over in this section, and there's plenty of ways to go about heating the manifold.
he has a efi, if it is a 90. the exhaust is already split. there is no carb.
oh man, sorry, I answered the wrong thread.you need to pre heat the manifold when you take the stock exhaust manifold off, and put on split efi manifolds, or headers, because with no heat on the intake the carb will freeze up...... even in warm weather.
I see 3 heat sources: 2 from the exh-manifold heat stove....1 to air cleaner valve, other to air-horn on carb below air-cleaner fitting. The 3rd is off the top of the log manifold for the choke. I do not use the choke at all so that isn't a worry. R U meaning either of the other two from the heat-stove? I"ve done some search on this forum, but I'm not finding anything relating to keeping OE carb and intake but needing exh heat for carb...help with that? Tks
When I added heat to my stock intake, I had a plate cut and threaded with holes. Size matched to the stock gasket:
Piping parts (about $10 worth) from the local plumbing store:
And bolted it underneath:
Use a gasket maker that specializes in liquid (since the stock gasket is designed for exhaust), and Indian Head Gasket Shellac to really seal up the threads and stuff.
You'll also need to plug up the port that goes up to the Smog pump inlet in the EGR spacer. If not, you'll have coolant coming out. Got that from the plumbing store too.
not understanding the coolant flow circulation through the plate you made. see piping in/out to/from the plate but how is that accomplished.....I'm missing something here.
btw: you used the 15037 cat. why not the 15038? used 17748 muffler?
Oh, sorry. I cut my hose that ran to the heater core. Ran one hose into one pipe, and the other hose out from the other pipe. So, the flow through the heater core would keep the motion of flow through the chimney in the intake.
If you go that route, be sure you clean out that chamber of all the exhaust carbon first, or it'll all go into your coolant system when you fire it up the first time... Been there, done that.
I used the 15038 cat on mine, as well as the 17788 muffler. Both are 2.5" in / 2.5" out slip fit. Very pleased with both. But mufflers are always up to preference.
ok...figured that was the heater hose. I don't know what's going on inside the intake manifold since I haven't removed it yet. That's the flow I can't savvy. Did you consider a hot-air source. Converter pipe has O2 bung which could be a heated air source for OE intake I'm thinkin'.
ok....15038 and 17788(?) Walker tech gave me 17748 for muffler. I called them because I was seeing different dimensions for the same part # on the RA and Summit sites. Even with discount Summit is $7 less than RA....!
The 17748 should work great too. It's a 2.5 in/out. I don't think there's much difference between the two except shape, and probably sound. No biggie.
I bet you could probably make something hot air wise using the O2 port on the pipe. I see a couple difficulties with it though.
First is that unlike the stock setup, it's about 3 feet away, so the exhaust is going to cool down significantly before it gets up to the intake to warm it.
Next is that there won't be any flow through, so once the pipe up to the intake fills, it'll go stagnant. This wasn't a problem on the stock setup since it was RIGHT next to the exhaust manifold, and whatever was in there was either moved around by the turbulence of the exhaust coming right out of the engine, or was simply warmed up by it since it was almost direct contact.
Not saying its not doable, but those would quickly be the problems I'd see that would need to be taken into consideration.
in a previous post Roger noted: "This topic has been covered many times over in this section, and there's plenty of ways to go about heating the manifold"
I've been looking for those ways, but there are so many posts the search brought up, I gave up.....too overwhelming to sift through all the threads.
The plate AB shows is likely the easiest way to go about this task, but the passage(s) in the intake will need a good cleaning, and any other ports going into this area will need plugged/capped.
Best part about building this type of plate, it can be retro-fitted to an aftermarket 4bbl intake at a later date, should you choose to upgrade further.
Being in the deep south (Austin Tx) you prolly won't have much issue with carb icing, except during the coldest times of the year. But, when it occurs, it's a royal pain in the *backside*.....
well that's kinda what I was thinking. I knew it was a problem at altitude for aircraft and for folks in the 'tundra' areas, but I'm in Zone 8b. It gets cold here, but the weather has enough good sense to go away quickly......kinda like a good guest. I'd ice up before a carb would so I stay inside. I'll engineer-up a solution in the meantime or copy ABs.....it ain't patented is it AB?
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