Help with Vaccum Lines
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Help with Vaccum Lines
So I have a 1973 ford F-100 with a 390 and I am only running a single vaccum line from the carb to the distributor and everything else is plugged off. I have the vaccum canister that has a fitting for just 1 hose and I read somewhere that there is supposed to be a check valve somewhere but I don't have it connected. The only other vaccum line I have hooked up is one that goes from the back base of the carb to the brake booster.
So my question is this, how do I hook what up where to make this thing right again. I had plugged a line from the heater controls to the vaccum tree on the on the intake but for some reason it wont stay on floor heat, when you get on it, the heat goes from floor to defrost
Oh, and there is no EGR valve and no automatic tranny, no smog pump I decided to go with the Tremec TKO 600.
This truck was pulled out of a field missing an engine and so I stripped it to down to the frame and started from the ground up.
Please help me with this mess
Thanks J.D.
So my question is this, how do I hook what up where to make this thing right again. I had plugged a line from the heater controls to the vaccum tree on the on the intake but for some reason it wont stay on floor heat, when you get on it, the heat goes from floor to defrost
Oh, and there is no EGR valve and no automatic tranny, no smog pump I decided to go with the Tremec TKO 600.
This truck was pulled out of a field missing an engine and so I stripped it to down to the frame and started from the ground up.
Please help me with this mess
Thanks J.D.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
The vacuum canister is used to maintain vacuum to the heater controls when the throttle plates are opened and manifold vacuum drops. This is why your heater controls let go of floor heat and drop to defrost in your setup, because manifold vacuum is low when you punch the pedal. The canister is supposed to be connected to manifold vacuum through a check valve. The check valve keeps the vacuum signal in the canister high, even if manifold vacuum drops. The heater controls source from the canister through another port in the check valve. The check valve can be bought new and should be under $10.
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The vacuum canister is used to maintain vacuum to the heater controls when the throttle plates are opened and manifold vacuum drops. This is why your heater controls let go of floor heat and drop to defrost in your setup, because manifold vacuum is low when you punch the pedal. The canister is supposed to be connected to manifold vacuum through a check valve. The check valve keeps the vacuum signal in the canister high, even if manifold vacuum drops. The heater controls source from the canister through another port in the check valve. The check valve can be bought new and should be under $10.
So are you saying that the check valve should have a two in, and one out type configuration???? Or should I use two check valves and a Tee off the vaccum canister ??
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So on the white side I put one line to the heater and one line to the manifold.
I was looking at the Autozone and Orielly site and the only show one that has one port on each side. Not a lot of choices here Bastrop
I was looking at the Autozone and Orielly site and the only show one that has one port on each side. Not a lot of choices here Bastrop
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
That does not sound right. I'll need to go out to my truck tomorrow and confirm - but I believe that manifold vacuum goes on the black side, and the heater controls and vacuum canister go to the white side. You need to keep manifold vacuum one-way isolated from the heater controls/vacuum canister. With check valves, I believe one color represents one side of the boundary and the other color represents the other side. Like I said though, I'll check on mine to be sure.
If you can only find a two-port check valve, you'd need to tee the canister and the heater controls on the same side of the check valve, and keep the manifold vacuum signal on the other side.
If you can only find a two-port check valve, you'd need to tee the canister and the heater controls on the same side of the check valve, and keep the manifold vacuum signal on the other side.
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On the Parts sites I am looking at they have that listed as a distributor check valve. Does that sound right ???
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
No, the distributor check valve is a different part. I found the correct part on Rock Auto by searching for a 1973 Ford F100 with a 390, then going to Heat & Air Conditioning, and looking under "Heater Blend Door" (which is misleading by the way). Under that tab it is listed as a vacuum check valve. This same check valve is used on a wide variety of other models as well. I still need to go out to mine and verify that the connections I told you are correct.
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Vaccum lines help
Ok guys I am still lost. I don't have any of that stuff other than number 8 the vaccum advance. I dont have 3 , I dont have 6. this is a bare bones operation. I want to know how to hook up the can, and make my heater work. I need to know where and how to hook up the check valve. If someone had one I could look at for 5 seconds I could figure out what I need and don't need and be on my merry way.
I can build engines till the cows come home, but i'll be damn if I can get this crap right.
I know you guys are trying, but I am still screwed.
I can build engines till the cows come home, but i'll be damn if I can get this crap right.
I know you guys are trying, but I am still screwed.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
For crying out loud steponit, you've done it again. Once again you've posted a bunch of useless images that have nothing to do with the original question and are only confusing the person that's seeking help. We ALMOST had this thread closed until you chimed in with your "contributions." Apparently you didn't get my point the first time, so here it is again for all to see:
He's not running any of that emissions equipment; all he is asking is how to hook up the vacuum check valve for the heater controls. Read through the thread next time.
1973fordf-100: please ignore all of this images that steponit posted; they have nothing to do with your question. Tomorrow morning I will post a picture of my truck's setup for you and you'll be good to go.
I find myself and others constantly having to correct you and clean up after your misleading information, and it's getting pretty annoying. Your main source of input on this website seems to just be directing people other places and borrowing images from a banned member, without really seeming to understand what you're posting. Most of the time, the collateral you post is incorrect for the application, or ambiguous. Other times, you're just plain wrong. It's a waste of time for the person seeking help, and it's a bigger waste of time for the people that have to clean up after you.
Sorry for the rant, but I've reached my threshold for nonsense. This has been going on for months. We're all here to help each other and learn, and if you're truly just trying to help people out, then I certainly don't mean to sling you out in front of everyone. But enough is enough.
Sorry for the rant, but I've reached my threshold for nonsense. This has been going on for months. We're all here to help each other and learn, and if you're truly just trying to help people out, then I certainly don't mean to sling you out in front of everyone. But enough is enough.
1973fordf-100: please ignore all of this images that steponit posted; they have nothing to do with your question. Tomorrow morning I will post a picture of my truck's setup for you and you'll be good to go.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
I went out to my truck today and verified that what I originally told you is correct. You need a 3-port check valve, like the one pictured. Run a vacuum line from the tree on the back of the intake to the BLACK side of the check valve. Connect the vacuum canister and the heater control line to the WHITE side. It doesn't matter which white port goes where because they're the same signal. Just keep the manifold vacuum signal on the BLACK side. Does that make sense?
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1979 F350 Door Speakers
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