I know that the 77-86 cluster housing from an Econoline is plastic and will swap into my 76 F100. But what about the printed circuit on the back? Does it also swap, or would I need to change it for an original?

My circuit panel is stamped with the following:
D9TF-10C956 AA
32279 20301
What do those mean?

Also, the cluster housing is stamped with the following:
DCUF-10848 AA S
P-2
What do those mean?

Lastly, for the printed circuit, if I have to buy another, is there a cheaper place to buy them than LMC?

 

I was told you need this one


You should be able to find a complete cluster in great shape for about $40.00 on Ebay

 

so then, I guess the cluster housing doesn't matter as much (as long as it has idiot lights instead of gauges), as long as it has those numbers on the back?

Is there a way to decode the circuit board?

 

1975/79 F100/350; 1975/80 Econoline & 1978/79 Bronco instrument cluster backs were made from a composition material that can TURN TO DUST before your very eyes!

In 1981, Ford came out with two hard plastic cluster backs, one for idiot lights (E1PZ10848B), one for gauges (E1PZ10848A). These fit all the previous Econolines and the F100/350's and Bronco's.

Also fit 1981/86 Econolines with idiot lights (E1PZ10848B) and 1981/91 Econolines with gauges (E1PZ10848A).

Some of these cluster backs were replaced under warranty, some were not, so the problem still exists 30 some years later.

You will not need another printed circuit if swapping in an Econoline cluster...just use the one that comes with it.

However, I believe (but I'm not sure) you will also need the wiring harness used with gauges (which I assume you want to swap), but this can be a real b!tch to install, because it's part of the dash harness.

FTE member steponit would be the one to ask.

btw: The numbers in blue are the actual Ford part numbers.

 

that is great info, thank you! I will just source a used Econoline gauge with idiot lights then for a temporary swap. I'll either upgrade later with the gauge version, or I will save up and buy a dakota digital dash. has anyone here ever used one? How hard are they to install and are they hard to read during the day?

 

Correction:

1981-1986 Econoline with idiot lamps.
1981-1991 Econoline with gauges.


As numberdummy already stated above.

The printed circuts did change, so I recommend using your old one and put it on the newer one, unless the engineering number on the printed circut matches. You can take them apart and just use the back portion, and reuse all the older clusters front components and printed circut and attach it to the new back. I recommend this anyway as the speedometer on the 1976 was still 100MPH.

Trucks with gauges, the printed circut changed often, so you should use the printed circut that came with the older cluster, and just use the newer backing. You cannot swap the idiot light with the gauge cluster easily. The whole main dash harness has to be replaced, as well as the altenator harness for a truck with gauges to do this swap. There are some vast circut differences, and if they are not properly rerouted, fires WILL result. Much easier to swap harnesses.

 

yes, familiar with the idiot harness versus gauge harness. changing out harnesses isn't a big deal, especially since i don't have a/c to worry about or work around. I've also converted to a 3g alternator and big anl fuse, so don't have to worry about shorts or burning it down.

For the circuits, the one currently in my dentside is just about useless. Many of the openings in the circuit are rubbed through and no longer make contact, or are ripped (previous owner didn't take very good care of it). So I'd need a new circuit anyway.

Thanks for the breakdown on the years!

 

Notice what the OP typed in post #1 which I quoted in post #4.

The OP listed the ID number of D9TF-10C956-AA for the printed circuit his truck has, which cross references to D9TZ10K843A = 1979 F100/350 & Bronco & 1979/86 Econoline with idiot lights.

The OP has a 1976 F100 with idiot lights, which calls for D6TZ10K843C = 1976/78 F100/350 & Econoline, 1978 Bronco.

So, at some point, considering the D9TZ printed circuit, either the printed circuit or the entire cluster has been changed to one from a 1979 F100/350, Bronco, or 1979/80 Econoline since it still has the composition cluster back (D6UZ10848A).

 

and knowing the mis-matched parts I've found all over this truck, I'm betting the previous owner changed the cluster from the 'donor' truck, which was a 1979.

 

I'm going to start hunting this down, as I need to get it replaced. My housing is shot and is crumbling around several of the lights, so much so that I can't install the lights as they slip right through. Also, in the worn areas, the printed circuit is also worn and coming apart. The twist-in lights don't even make contact on several of them. The other issue I have is I hate amp meters. I know how dangerous they are and would much rather have a volt meter for safety reasons. As such, and since I have to replace much of the under dash wiring, I think I'm going to go with a cluster with gauges instead of idiot lights and swap in a good harness.

After rebuilding the steering column last week, I found out that it was a 1979 column. The more and more I work on this truck, the more I'm thinking it's all 1979.

 

dumb question, but does anyone know specifically the difference between the idiot light harness and the guage harness? I would guess that it has to do with the amp meter circuit, which in my truck I have the 3g upgrade, so full alternator current isn't going into the cab direct from the alternator anymore. Just curious.

 

with Warning lights ..it has a 14 Pin connector

clusters with Gauges have a 18 pin connector

The resistor on both is in the harness

The Voltage regulator is what provides the current on demand

The alternator is just the dynamo that spins

 

so if I was to keep the existing harness, does anyone (read: steponit, haha) know what 4 pins are added?

 

 

Your understanding of automotive charging systems is incorrect.

The alternator is responsible for providing current. It is the only device in the system that is capable of actually generating electricity. The regulator senses the loading on the vehicle's electrical system, and adjusts the field current in the alternator to adjust the amount of current that the alternator produces. It essentially tells the alternator how much current to produce in order to maintain approximately 14 volts at all times, hence the term regulator. The regualtor doesn't actually provide current; it's a sense mechanism.

I find myself and others constantly having to correct you and clean up after your misleading information, and it's getting pretty annoying. Your main source of input on this website seems to just be directing people other places and borrowing images from a banned member, without really seeming to understand what you're posting. Most of the time, the collateral you post is incorrect for the application, or ambiguous. Other times, you're just plain wrong. It's a waste of time for the person seeking help, and it's a bigger waste of time for the people that have to clean up after you.

Sorry for the rant, but I've reached my threshold for nonsense. This has been going on for months. We're all here to help each other and learn, and if you're truly just trying to help people out, then I certainly don't mean to sling you out in front of everyone. But enough is enough.