My '65 Slick has a big ugly homemade bumper on it right now; I am getting ready to replace the leaky single exhaust with some duals out the back and I want to get the bumper situation squared away beforehand.

I would rather have a "stock" looking rear bumper, but by the time I buy the new bumper and the mounting brackets, I'm into it for $300 (I can't find any used ones)...Looks like I can get a roll pan for a little less than the bumper but I'm not sure if I need special brackets. Can anyone shed some light on how to mount the roll pan, or if bumper brackets can be "homemade"?

 

Have you got access to any wrecking yards in your area?...I see the semi-stock and stock rear bumpers regularly when I do my rounds at the local yards, and I think they can be had for well under $100. They usually just need prep and paint. You can look at trucks from 1967-72 for the same bumpers, widens your options and odds.

 

I called a couple of the local places; they always say they don't have any old fords... I guess I should check in person. I really don't need a NEW bumper or roll pan as my truck is unrestored. A junkyard find would be ideal...

 

Roll pans are usually held in place with sheet metal screws or the talented usually weld them in. They fit up to the bed floor and along the sides under the tailgate.

 

I can handle sheet metal screws...I found a good deal at Carolina Clasics; You can get a roll pan and a hidden hitch class 3 receiver all for about $400...And it appears that the roll pan is designed to go with this hitch. Too bad they are out of stock on the pans...

 

I installed a roll pan from Sir michaels on my 66.

It fit up and welded in very nicely. It has the opening for the hidden hitch and I added the flip down liscense plate frame.

The pros and cons:

Cool -
1) Having the pan looked really makes the truck look different, and I had alot of compliments. The liscense plate light and your hitch are hidden which really cleans things up.
2) You can fill the seams on each side of the pan for a very clean look. If you don't have access to a wire feed , you can screw the pan to the bed, and still have great results

Not so cool -
1) You have to take the tailgate off to install the pan. Putting the tailgate and brackets back on sucks. The roll pan limits access to your bolts. You have to slot the bottom bolt holes on the hinges so you can get the tailgate on and off.
2)Some states require some kind of structural support behind the roll pan for safety purposes. I had to weld a 2 1/2" pipe behind the roll pan for the truck to pass inspection in Utah.

3) And now the worst...If your parked at the hardware store sportin' your new roll pan and some clown in a cadillac is backin' up talkin on the phone and hits your pan, you've got to cut the pan back out and repair or replace it. There is not enough room to get tools behind it and the curve is pretty tight to get straight again...

Personnally ..after this experience, I will be going back to a bumper since I will be using the truck regularly.

Hope this helps with your decision..

 

Thanks for the info...I use my truck as a truck; its no trailer queen. I thought about the protection factor...nothing to protect against whiskey bumps LOL. might have to just wait and save up for the bumper and brackets.

 

Here is another option.
Put the roll pan on and still use the bumper. I did this because I didn't want to see the large gap between the bumper and tailgate.




And for the tailgate hinges, here is a solution to that. This way you only have to deal with getting the bolts in one time.



I copied the angle from my 99 F250 to figure out how to do these. The only that is wrong with this is that someone can steal your tailgate real easy.

Kevin