Rusty panels, repair or replace?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,147
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From: East Coast
Rusty panels, repair or replace?
Well the last two winters haven't been kind to my old stepside. Fortunately the cab corners aren't bad, and are a fairly easy fix. But I've attached photos of my front fenders and my pickup bed. I know the fenders can be repaired or replaced, what's the best option? I don't want to have issues down the line. As for the bed, that's not as easily replaced. What's my best options? I hate to pull the whole bed apart but I'm afraid in the next few years that's gonna be the only option, cutting out these bad sections and repairing them. What do you think?
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
The ONLY way to truely stop rust is cutting it out. Now w that said sand blasting is a viable option. Your fenders look like surface rust(but could be rusted from the back), so they could be sand blasted , primed and painted. bu they are easly replaced w new.
As for the bed. Sides are almost impossible to find. yours dont look to bad. I would take the bed completely apart. And sandblast the complete thing. After you are done sand blasting you will see what metal is actually left. I would then cut and weld in suitable pataches
As for the bed. Sides are almost impossible to find. yours dont look to bad. I would take the bed completely apart. And sandblast the complete thing. After you are done sand blasting you will see what metal is actually left. I would then cut and weld in suitable pataches
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 1
From: Illernois
I too am getting ready to cut out some bad rust areas on my truck and replace it.
Does anyone know how well the LMC truck replacement sheets of metal is? Is it too thin of stuff to really weld? Does it seem to hold of fairly well? Also any other suggests on replacement metal sections?
Thanks
Does anyone know how well the LMC truck replacement sheets of metal is? Is it too thin of stuff to really weld? Does it seem to hold of fairly well? Also any other suggests on replacement metal sections?
Thanks
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
I just bought the patch panels for above and behind both rear wheels. I purchased them from LMC. I was very pleased with the quality of the parts. They are quality steel and the stamping is perfect.
Tonight I cut out the drivers
side upper wheel area and used it as a template to cut the new panel. Afterwards, I did some fitting and all the contours matched up perfectly. I would recommend these to anyone looking to repair the rusted out panels on their 80-86.
Tonight I cut out the drivers
side upper wheel area and used it as a template to cut the new panel. Afterwards, I did some fitting and all the contours matched up perfectly. I would recommend these to anyone looking to repair the rusted out panels on their 80-86.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
I too am getting ready to cut out some bad rust areas on my truck and replace it.
Does anyone know how well the LMC truck replacement sheets of metal is? Is it too thin of stuff to really weld? Does it seem to hold of fairly well? Also any other suggests on replacement metal sections?
Thanks
Does anyone know how well the LMC truck replacement sheets of metal is? Is it too thin of stuff to really weld? Does it seem to hold of fairly well? Also any other suggests on replacement metal sections?
Thanks
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
If your interested I have rear wheel arch repair panels that I would sell you dirt cheap. I bought them for my truck and they ended up not being a the right fit. Send me a private message if anyone is interested.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
I bought the rocker panels & cab corners from LMC. Match is fine. Just depends on how perfect you want the lines compared to factory. A good body man can probably make it all look right with some epoxy and elbow grease anyways.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 1
From: East Coast
The ONLY way to truely stop rust is cutting it out. Now w that said sand blasting is a viable option. Your fenders look like surface rust(but could be rusted from the back), so they could be sand blasted , primed and painted. bu they are easly replaced w new.
As for the bed. Sides are almost impossible to find. yours dont look to bad. I would take the bed completely apart. And sandblast the complete thing. After you are done sand blasting you will see what metal is actually left. I would then cut and weld in suitable pataches
As for the bed. Sides are almost impossible to find. yours dont look to bad. I would take the bed completely apart. And sandblast the complete thing. After you are done sand blasting you will see what metal is actually left. I would then cut and weld in suitable pataches
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
Do your self a favor and put complete bed skins on. A wheel well patch is such a waste of time and it is a place for rust to start. I can put two bed sides on and have them ready for paint in about 12 hours. try that with patches. O and a bed skin is a better repair(like original)
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
I only use OEM sheet metal on my trucks so i can not speak for he quality/fitment of aftermarket parts. But patching a 90 dollar fender seems stupid to me
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
National parts Depot has sides.
Dennis carpenter
I buy mine at swap meets or craigs list. I bougth 2 NOS bed sides for 200
Dennis carpenter
I buy mine at swap meets or craigs list. I bougth 2 NOS bed sides for 200
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Alberta, Canada
Hey diesel_brad, I need to do a bed side replacement on my '81. Any tips, tricks, or advice? It would be great if someone would do a step by step posting, seeing as all of these trucks seem to need them.