I'm looking at cams and have a question about torque converters, at what amount of cam duration do you have to have a stall converter? Looking at various cam makers, some say at this duration you need one while some other maker will say you don't. Anybody got a clue? The cam I'm running now has 214 @.050, doesn't need stall, so, how much duration can I go with the stock converter? Thanks

Robert

 

Well there's a whole lot more to consider when trying to get an off the shelf cam from any manufacturer ! Duration is only one aspect of it.. You need to know what your intended use is of the motor its going in..Motor Specs and drivetrain of such vehicle and weight and tire size, Gear ratio, all go into the equation ! all cams with the same duration are NOT created equal..some may have faster ramps.. with the same duration.. that just get you to the duration faster..and you need to look at lift..dpending on what your running for a valvetrain set-up ? Stock modified with ? or full race roller rocker set-up..

You dont want to use a Big Azz roller cam with stock heads..stock exhaust logs , stock intake etc..and valvetrain..you'll never get it to work.. If your just looking for a little bump in your idle..run something like the Comp Cams 272H...I believe that cam will run with all stock valvetrain.. Of course hedders and intake are always a plus along with a better carb.. If your planning on using it in a truck that tows..Use an RV cam in it..where it will drop the Tq range down low in the rpm band for good off idle towing with a stock conveter...Alot of research has to go into picking the right cam..Most just Pick one off the shelf because they have heard someone else is running that cam..and it could be completely wrong for there build !

 

Two things, all converters "stall" - the "stall" RPMs are the point at which, if the vehicle is not moving, and full engine torque is applied, the engine will rev to. So, if you want to figure out basically what "stall" your current converter is, push on the brakes as hard as you can, apply parking brake, and bring the engine RPMs up until they don't climb anymore. That's your current converter's "stall speed", give or take.

A lot of people have good luck bringing their existing converter to a speed shop who knows what they are going, either getting it rebuilt to what they want, or the shop will figure out what converter you currently have, and go slightly higher if necessary.

But like Russ said, it all depends on what you are going to be doing overall.

What weight vehicle? What rear gears? What tranny (assuming C6)? The list goes on and on...

Also, this has a lot to do with racing. If you're just rebuilding the engine with a slightly bigger cam and you're not concerned about 1/4-mile times, and just want a daily driver that works well, the stock converter would probably suffice. But again, if you are going TOO big on the cam, low-end torque will suffer and it will struggle to get moving.

 

call Alan at dirty dawg converters. He is the best in the business and cam help you decide the right stall speed.

 

Thanks.

Robert