2000 Ranger not starting
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2000 Ranger not starting
I have a 2000 Ranger 4.0 xlt that will not start. It has been running fine, has 77,000 miles. My son drove it and said the check engine light came on. I found he didn't get the gas gap on tight, so that took care of the light. The following week a couple times it would not start right up, it would turn over but not start. On maybe the 3rd try it would start and run fine. Then it started running rough, I found the number 4 plug tip broken inside the plug wire boot. So I changed all the plugs. It was fine for about a week again, then would not start. Checked for the fuel pump to come on before I tried to start it each time and found that when it didn't start, the fuel pump didn't start first. Pulled the bed off and checked for 12v at fuel pump harness. When turning key on found 12v at yellow wire. I don't have a wiring diagram to confirm thats the correct wire to have 12v at. Any suggestions? Sorry to be long winded, just wanted to lay foundation of problems. THX
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
The FP circuit originates in the fuse/relay box located under the hood. The fuel pump relay (large relay #9 ) is controlled by the PCM. When the FP relay is engaged, 12V is sent from the relay (via DG/YE wire) to the Fuel System Cutoff Switch ("inertia switch") which is located inside the cab behind the passenger-side kick panel.
If the inertia switch is OK (not tripped), 12V then continues from the inertia switch out to the fuel pump motor (via PK/BK wire). The ground wire for the FP motor is BK/OG.
So at a minimum, you want to check for 12V at the PK/BK wire when it should be hot (Start and Run).
If the inertia switch is OK (not tripped), 12V then continues from the inertia switch out to the fuel pump motor (via PK/BK wire). The ground wire for the FP motor is BK/OG.
So at a minimum, you want to check for 12V at the PK/BK wire when it should be hot (Start and Run).
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Additionaly, the yellow/white wire is for the fuel gauge sender.
As Rockedge posted, the fuel pump motor is fed from the in cabin inertia switch, on the pink/black wire.
If you have 12 volts on the pink/black lead at the pump, but it won't run, inspect it's electrical connector for corrosion, or loose connections.
If thats ok, try thumping the pump & see if it'll wake up.
Try providing a good low resistance ground for the pump. If it starts then, suspect a corrupt pump ground connection, or wire. The pump ground lead is the black wire.
I have ground pont 103 as beeing under hood, drivers side, midway up on the inner fender, back close to the end of the power distribution box.
Mine has a green screw & two wires & lugs under it. It needs to be clean bright & tight, to make good connection.
More thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
As Rockedge posted, the fuel pump motor is fed from the in cabin inertia switch, on the pink/black wire.
If you have 12 volts on the pink/black lead at the pump, but it won't run, inspect it's electrical connector for corrosion, or loose connections.
If thats ok, try thumping the pump & see if it'll wake up.
Try providing a good low resistance ground for the pump. If it starts then, suspect a corrupt pump ground connection, or wire. The pump ground lead is the black wire.
I have ground pont 103 as beeing under hood, drivers side, midway up on the inner fender, back close to the end of the power distribution box.
Mine has a green screw & two wires & lugs under it. It needs to be clean bright & tight, to make good connection.
More thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
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Thanks for the info. I found I did have 12v at harness connections at the pump, but pump would not turn on. By the way, the pump only gets 12v for about 2 seconds then drops to 6.5, strange. Checked the ground at pump seemed ok. Put the pump back in, it turned on. After doing that back and forth several times I replaced the hanger assy. Started right up and no longer runs rough either. So it really did need the fuel pump. Thx again for the help!
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