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Installed some more goodies

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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 07:32 AM
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locknload223
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From: Charles Town, WV
Installed some more goodies

Some of my explainations are already known by you guys but I posted this in one of my Toyota boards as well so bear with me.

OK, I installed more parts and let me say one thing. Kneeling on the radiator core support and holding myself up with the AC compressor and alternator is not the most comfortable position. Especially 6 months post op from back surgery.

I installed a ported housing, Riffraff FRx, HPx, boot kit, and 6.0 IC.

First thing was to remove the stock fuel pressure regulator from the side of the fuel bowl. After the fuel bowl was partially drained and the fuel return line was disconnected, the regulator could be unbolted and removed. This wasn't too bad. The return line need a little tweaking but that's about it.






Here's the fuel crossover kit on my comforter burrito. This saved the knees and shins from actual loss of skin, bruising and subdermal hematoma... not so much.




The two ends of the kit thread into test ports on each head. Driver's side rear and passenger front. Both were not in the easiest locations but I was able to get my booger hooks in there to install the fittings and attach the lines. Some other kits require cutting of the factory lines, this kit was plug n play, very nice.

The oil crossover also plugs into test ports. These are much easier to reach. The plugs come out, the new fittings go in then the line attaches to the fittings. Simple enough.
I didn't take pics of the ports but can later. Here are the two lines installed, green arrow is the oil crossover and the blue is fuel.



The fuel line connects the heads and eliminates the dead head system from International. This upgrade gives the needed fuel to the 8th injector and evenly distributes fuel pressure to the other injectors.
Since the injectors are run by oil pressure, this oil crossover also balances the oil flow to all eight injectors. Faster starts, smoother idle, quieter injectors, and a little more power are all outcomes from these upgrades.


The ATS turbo housing has a larger inlet and is ported to allow a bypass of the incoming aircharge. This setup eliminates turbo surge and the stall created by surge. Surge isn't something that usually happens with a stock diesel but when power mods are added, namely a custom chip, surge becomes prevelant and can be deadly to turbos.

I wasn't really impressed with the ATS housing's quality control. The internal casting remnants were very rough and very 'unfinished' compared to the stock Garrett housing. It seems like for a $400 part, they could at least clean up and smooth the inside a bit more than it was.

Back on track, I used a 90 degree pic the dreaded E clip and of course it disappeared forever (or so I thought) which was ok because I picked up soome throttle linkage clips. Man, if you haven't used these, they're amazingly easy to work with. Well worth the trip to Carquest or Napa.
Back to the 'so I thought'. When the E clip slid off there was no sound of it landing or hitting anything. I figured it landed in grease. Later after the intstall was finished, I found a slightly distorted E clip on my work bench (that was clean before I started the job) some 15 feet away from the truck. WTH??? It looks like it's 1/4" also. I get a pic of it up later. I felt like Rod Serling was going to walk i nto my garage at any moment.

A direct comparison.



Installed.



I didn't take any pics of the intercooler install but here's one on the stock IC under the core supprt. Everything on and including the core support needs to come out for ICs to get swapped. The 6.0 IC is 30% larger and nets a 100 degree drop in EGTs, maybe a little power increase also due to the increase of cooler air coming into the intake. The new IC is taller and was hitting the transmission cooler lines just past the fittings. I reached down and bent the lines a tad and the cooler fit fine. I then used a piece of rubber mat between the cooler and bent line just to keep the line from rubbing the IC too much. Once I find a 6.0 tranny cooler, I'll fix this issue permantly.



All buttoned up. I wrapped the cold side tube with header tape to help keep the cooler air well... cool.




I'm very pleased with the reasults and ease of install, especially from Clay's parts. Everything went smoothly without any leaks.

Clay was a pleasure to work with. His customer service is second to none. This is how business USED to be and is why he stands out so much now. Thanks again Clay, I'll be back.

The motor seems a little quieter, less cackle, and also appears to run a little smoother. While possible a placebo, the throttle also seems to be a little more responsive. We towed my 7,000lb travel trailer up 6% grades through MD and PA with zero surge. I stood on the throttle trying to make it surge, nope. "Neener, neener, neener" my turbo said, "not gonna do it." I couldn't be happier. I love my truck!

Next project is to install the Vcodes and adjustable track arm then figure out how much lift the rear needs to match the front.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 07:40 AM
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SGnAZ
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From: Az
Very informative write up.
Nice work.
Reps sent.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 10:42 AM
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looks good!
 
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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Vinny Mastrodomenico
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From: San Antonio
Lock N Load,
Thanks for the write-up with pics. I have the FRX and HPX, and am planning on installing this weekend. Any tools or tips that may help that are not included in the instructions.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 12:00 PM
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From: Charles Town, WV
Originally Posted by Vinny Mastrodomenico
Lock N Load,
Thanks for the write-up with pics. I have the FRX and HPX, and am planning on installing this weekend. Any tools or tips that may help that are not included in the instructions.
Vinny, it's pretty straight forward, follow Clay's instructions and you should be fine. You don't have to drain the entire fuel bowl, just enough to get the fuel level below the fuel regulator. You'll understand when you get into it. If you have large hands, the front passenger side of the fuel line fitting to head is tight but doable. The driver side rear fitting is pretty much blind so be patient and take your time. Don't drop the fitting down the back of the motor, it's a pain to retrieve. Ask me how I know.

The oil cross over was easier than I expected, didn't have to fight it to fit. I did tighten up each side a little at a time as the instructions state. It will be much easier if you remove the spider but from what I understand, is not neccessary.

Take your time and be ready to be in an uncomfortable position for a little while. Snug everything down then check for leaks after your test run. Oh and most importantly, have fun.
 
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