Clutch issue (hydraulic system)
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, Co.
Clutch issue (hydraulic system)
My clutch was not engaging correctly so i crawled under and bled it. finding out this didn't do much to improve the situation, I searched for other problems and found the rod from the pedal driving the master cylinder was worn out. went and got a new master cylinder got it replaced now I have no pressure at all, i do get a small amount of fluid when i bleed it and have to top off the res. but the slave will not pressurize at all. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas of what is going on?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
Shoulda just done the clutch rod end replacement kit.
=)
Cause while you fixed the wear on the clutch rod, you didn't fix it on the pedal part.
Anyways.
if your cylinder doesn't have a bleeder. No idea on that one.
but you gotta pump the pedal usually to get the air out. Takes quite a bit of pumping.
Gotta stab it too, it will work the air out eventually.
=)
Cause while you fixed the wear on the clutch rod, you didn't fix it on the pedal part.
Anyways.
if your cylinder doesn't have a bleeder. No idea on that one.
but you gotta pump the pedal usually to get the air out. Takes quite a bit of pumping.
Gotta stab it too, it will work the air out eventually.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
Everybody says the best thing to do is just get a pre-bled unit and change the master/slave/hose all at once and not worry with it. It can be a real PITA to bleed.
And regardless of whether you got a new master with a good rod on it or not you should ABSOLUTELY do the permanent fix. $32 to my door from ebay. The best $32 I've ever spent on my truck. I didn't realize how much slack was in the clutch linkage until I put it on. Go to ebay, type in "Ford Clutch Fix", and click "Buy Now". Super reputable seller. They've sold over a thousand of those things and have 100% positive feedback. It did take 20 days for me to get mine but they refunded my money due to that fact and I still got the part. Takes like 30 minutes to an hour at most to do.
And regardless of whether you got a new master with a good rod on it or not you should ABSOLUTELY do the permanent fix. $32 to my door from ebay. The best $32 I've ever spent on my truck. I didn't realize how much slack was in the clutch linkage until I put it on. Go to ebay, type in "Ford Clutch Fix", and click "Buy Now". Super reputable seller. They've sold over a thousand of those things and have 100% positive feedback. It did take 20 days for me to get mine but they refunded my money due to that fact and I still got the part. Takes like 30 minutes to an hour at most to do.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 6
From: College Station, TX
Awesome dude!!! That will be nice
Weak. Yeah, I'd heard from you and several others that they'd received them really fast. I know that Arizona to Texas via standard mail isn't exactly overnight but crap man, 20 days...
Weak. Yeah, I'd heard from you and several others that they'd received them really fast. I know that Arizona to Texas via standard mail isn't exactly overnight but crap man, 20 days...
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Olympia, WA
The clutch hydraulics are a real pain to get the air out of. Forget the bleeder on the slave, it won't work. You need to pump the slave gently by hand, that will force the air back up the line and into the master reservior. Stop when it firms up and reinstall the slave.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
I can barely get my slave to compress, hahaha. I have to use a clamp to get it clamped down and quickly install it into its spot.
The correct way to use the bleeder is to bleed the slave, thats pretty much it.
just open the bleeder and compress the slave by hand, tighten the bleeder and slowly draw fluid into the slave.
Doing this once or twice will some air out.
Then its down to just using the clutch pedal till your leg hurts and it should be good.
The air will work its way out being lighter than the fluid.
I found it easier to do with the cap off.
The little bladder inside the cap is supposed to do this and that to make this and that work. Not really sure yet.
but, it tends to bloat out, and then starve the system of fluid.
With it out, you can fill it up higher and just throw the cap on to keep the gurgling from going everywhere. When its stiff, then put the bladder in and catch the excess fluid. Make sure its not expanded out like a melon coring tool, it should be popped in. When you press the pedal down, it should swell out, and the idea, i think, is to help keep air out of the system.
The correct way to use the bleeder is to bleed the slave, thats pretty much it.
just open the bleeder and compress the slave by hand, tighten the bleeder and slowly draw fluid into the slave.
Doing this once or twice will some air out.
Then its down to just using the clutch pedal till your leg hurts and it should be good.
The air will work its way out being lighter than the fluid.
I found it easier to do with the cap off.
The little bladder inside the cap is supposed to do this and that to make this and that work. Not really sure yet.
but, it tends to bloat out, and then starve the system of fluid.
With it out, you can fill it up higher and just throw the cap on to keep the gurgling from going everywhere. When its stiff, then put the bladder in and catch the excess fluid. Make sure its not expanded out like a melon coring tool, it should be popped in. When you press the pedal down, it should swell out, and the idea, i think, is to help keep air out of the system.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Pendergrass, GA
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