What have you done to your truck today?
I do like the thought of a hole (pipe) in the floor and mount the winch or other "tools" on a pipe & plate if needed that would fit inside the floor pipe.
Dave ----
I like the idea of using the existing bolts in the foundation at the back of the wall, probably there are such bolts like this behind there:
Maybe I can hide a winch beneath the wooden step from the kitchen to the garage (which has sunken, look at the red line on the foundation for its original height):
Maybe I can hide a winch beneath the wooden step from the kitchen to the garage (which has sunken, look at the red line on the foundation for its original height):
Dont put anything in the floor that isnt flush or removable. That is a pain in the *** waiting to happen and isnt practical.
Off-topic: Just wondering about the need for the new garage floor. Do you have Bentonite soil? Back in the mid-80s, I worked for an outfit in Denver that repaired foundation problems caused by Bentonite.
If the damage wasn't too bad, new floors in the basement and garage were all that was needed. In the worst cases, though, we'd have to lift the house and replace the entire foundation.
I mostly worked on the carpentry side, so didn't do much of the concrete work. I do remember some special techniques they used that would allow for future soil movement.
If the damage wasn't too bad, new floors in the basement and garage were all that was needed. In the worst cases, though, we'd have to lift the house and replace the entire foundation.
I mostly worked on the carpentry side, so didn't do much of the concrete work. I do remember some special techniques they used that would allow for future soil movement.
I don't know how much stock I'm going to put into the side load Theory. I have pulled an awful lot of heavy loads through rough Terrain all at the mercy of a 5/8 hitch pin. Gary pulled big blue and all of his assessories halfway across the country with a 5/8 hitch pin side-loaded the whole way.
I don't know how much stock I'm going to put into the side load Theory. I have pulled an awful lot of heavy loads through rough Terrain all at the mercy of a 5/8 hitch pin. Gary pulled big blue and all of his assessories halfway across the country with a 5/8 hitch pin side-loaded the whole way.
We are not commenting on the 1/2" bolt as much as the concentration of breakout force and the lack of support offered by 2" imbedment.
Yep. That J-bolt in the stem wall is great for vertical loads, but not for horizontal loads. But, the idea of placing anchors in the side of the stem wall and pulling straight on them is much better. Not as good as a large pipe welded into the rebar and submerged in concrete though.
Hilti or Powers (the ones that dropped the ceiling of Boston's 'Big Dig') have all the withdrawal values in their tech sheets.
For HIT200 high strength epoxy mortar...
1/2" rod 2 3/4" imbedment in 3,000 psi concrete = 3,895 withdrawal
This doesn't seem like much of a safety factor.
Maybe bigger?
Maybe deeper?
Idk, but like Chris said, he does NOT want to drill after the slab is finished.
He wants to incorporate into the pour.
For HIT200 high strength epoxy mortar...
1/2" rod 2 3/4" imbedment in 3,000 psi concrete = 3,895 withdrawal
This doesn't seem like much of a safety factor.
Maybe bigger?
Maybe deeper?
Idk, but like Chris said, he does NOT want to drill after the slab is finished.
He wants to incorporate into the pour.
No, that isn't enough safety factor for me. I'd go with the pipe welded to the rebar idea. And if it had a way to fasten a chain in it, like maybe if it had threads and could take a 9/16" bolt to secure a chain, then I'd make it flush with the top of the floor. Maybe use a coupling that had internal threads and screw a plug into it to keep things out when it wasn't being used.
Chris just have a 3" ID steel pipe embedded into the new floor. Stick a winch on a plate and weld a pipe to the plate that will fit inside your 3" ID pipe. Drop that winch right into the pipe. Happy Winching.
Its basically a trailer hitch positioned vertically and flush to your floor. Hide it under your stairs, or put a few pipes in different places so you can winch from different angles if need be. Set the pipe 1/4" below the concrete so you have a nice place to put a round plate to cover the hole.
Its basically a trailer hitch positioned vertically and flush to your floor. Hide it under your stairs, or put a few pipes in different places so you can winch from different angles if need be. Set the pipe 1/4" below the concrete so you have a nice place to put a round plate to cover the hole.
Be forewarned - I haven't read past this post yet but I like this kind of thinking...
I learned I don't want an AC winch... what I WANT is a Warn BUT it won't get used enough to justify such a thing, so... maybe HF to the rescue, they have a 12,000 lb. DC-powered trailer winch for about $400, my friend Tom in France can weld & fab, my uncle Jim can find me a DC power supply for the thing, this may work.
Did a bit of searching and am presently stopping here:
12000 lb. Off-Road Vehicle Electric Winch with Automatic Load-Holding Brake
I am generally not one to push HF stuff but this type of thing may be an exception....
So, if this was bolted to a mount plate that was somehow affixed/embedded into the floor (maybe I should talk to concrete contractors) and maybe surrounding area, this could be doable and should probably be sufficient, ya think?
This is pretty much my 2.0 version.
My only additional thought was to elevate the winch off the floor on a readily available concrete filled column (for those concerned about the cable riding on the concrete)
More moment and less shear, but nothing insurmountable.
Yes, you would have to create a thicker pad beneath the slab and weld the pipe *socket* to the grid so it couldn't shift.
But it would get the cable off the break in pitch where the driveway enters the garage and be an absolute stop for rolling load.
My only additional thought was to elevate the winch off the floor on a readily available concrete filled column (for those concerned about the cable riding on the concrete)
More moment and less shear, but nothing insurmountable.
Yes, you would have to create a thicker pad beneath the slab and weld the pipe *socket* to the grid so it couldn't shift.
But it would get the cable off the break in pitch where the driveway enters the garage and be an absolute stop for rolling load.
The truck barely clears on its own wheels, never could that be ridden into the garage.
Wow, thanks, guys, I have to re-read all the responses and conceptualize some more but I like where this is heading.
BTW I filled up the tires in my truck today; it makes a LOT of difference when 2 kidde-corner tires are 20 lbs under-inflated, the truck gets real wonky like that. And driving the truck almost becomes fun again! Until the pinging & sticking choke get in the way. I apparently tuned it as a conservative daily driver trying to maximize fuel mileage, that has to change.
It's really grody & grungy, like it's been in a forest for 5 years; maybe pictures tomorrow.
BTW I filled up the tires in my truck today; it makes a LOT of difference when 2 kidde-corner tires are 20 lbs under-inflated, the truck gets real wonky like that. And driving the truck almost becomes fun again! Until the pinging & sticking choke get in the way. I apparently tuned it as a conservative daily driver trying to maximize fuel mileage, that has to change.
It's really grody & grungy, like it's been in a forest for 5 years; maybe pictures tomorrow.