Are there any kits for putting an FE engine into a 1952 F1. I haven't been able to find one. (TransDapt's kit is for 1953 and newer.)

 

go too trans dapts web site . stuff there too make it happen . also look up julie's cool f1 . jules has a bonus built she whips on with a 390 in it .

 

I did go to the TransDapt website. I only found the kit for '53 and newer. Did I miss it?

Is there a build thread for Julie's Bonus Built?

 

Well, there's not just one thread, but alot of stuff kind of spread out all over - engine mounts, transmission, linkages, exhaust problems (with stock steering - if you keep it), etc etc. What specifically are you interested in seeing? I've talked about this stuff quite a bit and have tons of pictures (and am willing to take more). You might want to check out my "Garage" here - just click on it up in my header.

Long story short, there's no kits that I know of.

Let me know what you need!

Welcome to FTE by the way!

 

Thanks, Julie.

The main thing that I'm worried about at the moment is motor mounts. I'll be using a three-bolt (post '65) block.

Is there a kit (or just motor mounts) for putting a 429/460 (385 series) into a Bonus Built? If so, it should work. All you usually have to do to fit an FE in place of a 385 is to reverse the 385 motor mounts and drill one hole.

 

Classic Haulers F-1 Parts - Store - Motor Mounts - Conversion

 

Well, we need to back up a sec first.

Do you have any plans to put a IFS in the front? Also, what are your plans for steering boxes? Motor mounts will affect (and be affected by) both of these items.

I originally inherited the under engine mount show as P/N #4437 in the link above, and ended up breaking it! They also tend to block the access to the Oil Pan Plug of the front sump oil pans (again IFS will take a rear sump pan).

I decided to have some mounts made specifically for the truck and engine. Top picture is the old "off the shelf" mount - note the fatigue and poorly designed angles used. Also note that the lower tube has been cut and rewelded to allow for access to the oil pan plug:

 

No IFS. Good tip on the oil plug location. I'll try to find a pan with a plug in a different location to avoid that issue.

 

Why not just fab up some 3 sided ears of the frame rails and be done with it ? That is what is in the 1ST-RIDE . No under engine tube . No drain plug access problem and access to the bottom end ofthe engine if need be .

 

I was wondering that myself. Julie might know of a complication in doing that.

 

I don't know of any complications with that wrt the oil pan.

The big problem is exhaust on the drivers side. You have a 5 1/2 inbch square box that's available and its directly below the #6 & 7 exhaust ports. That problem will exist as long as you are using the stock steering box and any mount on the drivers side.

Pics:







These are interesting pictures because they show the method my PO came up with to exhaust on the drivers side. He mounted an exhaust manifld on backwards then looped the exhaust pipe up from underneath via the front.

Only problem is now you can't get to the oil filter and the exhaust is perilously close to the lower radiator hose.

The only two solutions I could find (doesn't mean there aren't others lurking out there) woul dbe to change out the steering box, or have custom headers made to go over the frame and out.

 

The Flowtech 12542 headers look like they might clear the steering box. See photo at:

FLOWTECH 12542 HDR FORD PU 390 4WD [FLT12542] - $175.99 : Raceware, Your One Stop Race Shop

 

I was too lazy to import the pics into the galleries so I hope you don't mind I started another post to show a few more views of the install.

Overall, it's a VERY tight fit with the FE. I have about 1/4 to 1/2" between my valve covers and the firewall, and had to use a 17" Thunderbird fan in front to clear the crossmember. I can't imagine that fit if the inner fenders were installed - mine aren't I have a full front tilt - but I'm sure it's possible.

Point is, you have very few options and they are all interrelated. For example: if you were installing an IFS, you would have to use a rear sump oil pan(thus motor mount block goes away) and probably have to incorporate your motor mounts onto the IFS cross member. If you change to a Toyota Steering Box, your problems pretty much go away.

And as long as we are talking about space and making adjustments, what kind of transmission are you planning on putting behind your FE?

Here's some more pics. First is of reverse loop exhaust - note the oil filter and radiator hose. A remote oil filter forward of the radiator works beautifully - again I can get to it because of the front tilt (second pic). Third pic is of a beautiful set of Stock Ford FE Police Interceptor Cast Headers I had to sell half my liver to buy - wouldn't fit - dumped out right on top of the steering box:

 

I have a toploader 4-spd, so I'd probably try to use it. I've heard its a bolt in with either the stock F1 3-spd crossover or a reversed F2 4-spd crossover. Of course, that would depend on motormount placement to some degree. My engine is a 428 police interceptor.

I have the long tube 427 cast headers. I guess they're out. Shame.

I think that I have all the parts to do a remote oil filter (using 460 PI oil cooler parts).

Neat trick with going forward with the exhaust. A heat shield between the pipe and hose should solve the heat problem.

 

Pretty sure they won't: The #7 and #8 tubes will hit the frame and the #6 tube will hit the steering box:



Edit note: This photo from underneath (frame is upper right corner) may a little more "dramatically" emphasize the problem. As I see it you have 3 choices (and by no means except only my opinion because someone somewhere else may have found another solution - that I'd be VERY interested in seeing) Custom headers - either over or inside the frame; different steering box; or, loop the exhaust out the front. And don't get discouraged either - my 390 is the best engine I've ever had in a truck!