FE engine into '52?
#16
What about FTE (big truck) center dump exhaust manifolds? See photo:
http://www.fordification.com/bumpwik...361T391Tc1.jpg
http://www.fordification.com/bumpwik...361T391Tc1.jpg
The exhaust manifolds are a ram's-horn design that will physically bolt up to an FE, but they contain an exhaust crossover port which would have to be welded shut to use on an FE engine. However, you might run into a side clearance problem when trying to use these on a smaller vehicle, since they angle out quite a bit.
#17
What about FTE (big truck) center dump exhaust manifolds? See photo:
http://www.fordification.com/bumpwik...361T391Tc1.jpg
http://www.fordification.com/bumpwik...361T391Tc1.jpg
#19
Pics of my 391HD-FT with the manifolds you mention. You can hopefully get an idea where the center dump of the manifold lies in relation to where the motor mount would be. (this truck had front and rear mounts)
Second pic shows the distance from the block straight out to the far edge of the center dump on the manifold. That should give ya an idea how far in or out it sits.
Second pic shows the distance from the block straight out to the far edge of the center dump on the manifold. That should give ya an idea how far in or out it sits.
#20
Sanderson doesn't make Blockhuggar headers for the FF/FE engines. I didn't find anyone (in 2007) that had block hugger headers for FEs. That's why I paid $1700 to have mine made!
Here's a 427 header that is the only model they make with all four tubes gathering and dropping straight down together. Note it is cnetered directly in line with the #7 Port mounting holes. You'd need at least 2 inches (1 3/4" tubes) aft of that to fit in front of the steering box - no gots....See the second pic - taken straight down from the #7 Port mounting holes:
BUT, I'm noticing now with my new motor mounts (that replaced the old after the engine was installed and headers fabricated) that there is about another inch of space in the forward part of the box (that 5 1/2 by 5 1/2 inch box I showed in the first set of pictures) now. I measured from the mounting face of the header to the closest part of the frame in the box and you have six inches before the header touches the frame, and the center is open (see the second pic above for the opening between #6 and #7 ports)
If the exhaust pipe can be formed to stay within that 6 inches and less than 2 1/2 inches in diameter, I believe the FTE Big Truck manifold you and Scott are talking about would JUST fit. But lots of heat on the steering box and lots of heat on the frame, wires and brake lines.
Hey Scott, can you take one more picture - this time with the ruler sitting flush on the surface the exhaust pipe would mount to and touching the engine block on the end? THX. I measured out from my block like you had the ruler and had a 7 1/4 inch space to the frame (where yours appears to be about 8 to 8 1/4). Also, note that my frame sits 4 1/4 inches below the lower mounting hole on the #7 port. In case you are thinking you might have the height to curve the exhaust pipe back in toward the engine before it gets down to frame height.
Thus back to my original statement that your motor mounts may dictate your exhaust and vice versa!
Here's a 427 header that is the only model they make with all four tubes gathering and dropping straight down together. Note it is cnetered directly in line with the #7 Port mounting holes. You'd need at least 2 inches (1 3/4" tubes) aft of that to fit in front of the steering box - no gots....See the second pic - taken straight down from the #7 Port mounting holes:
BUT, I'm noticing now with my new motor mounts (that replaced the old after the engine was installed and headers fabricated) that there is about another inch of space in the forward part of the box (that 5 1/2 by 5 1/2 inch box I showed in the first set of pictures) now. I measured from the mounting face of the header to the closest part of the frame in the box and you have six inches before the header touches the frame, and the center is open (see the second pic above for the opening between #6 and #7 ports)
If the exhaust pipe can be formed to stay within that 6 inches and less than 2 1/2 inches in diameter, I believe the FTE Big Truck manifold you and Scott are talking about would JUST fit. But lots of heat on the steering box and lots of heat on the frame, wires and brake lines.
Hey Scott, can you take one more picture - this time with the ruler sitting flush on the surface the exhaust pipe would mount to and touching the engine block on the end? THX. I measured out from my block like you had the ruler and had a 7 1/4 inch space to the frame (where yours appears to be about 8 to 8 1/4). Also, note that my frame sits 4 1/4 inches below the lower mounting hole on the #7 port. In case you are thinking you might have the height to curve the exhaust pipe back in toward the engine before it gets down to frame height.
Thus back to my original statement that your motor mounts may dictate your exhaust and vice versa!
#21
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#25
Here's the link that shows the only 6 headers that Sanderson makes for the FE. None of them are "block huggers" and none of them will fit on an FE in a 51/52 F1-6 truck - period!
Sanderson Headers for Ford FE 332-428" engine applications.
I'd be real interested in seeing a picture of those headers and a link to the Sanderson site that shows them - because there were no Sanderson "Block Hugger" headers for the FE engines when I was on the site last night - only the one I posted the picture of which is for the FE in an F-100 (53+).
Also we are talking aboput 51/52 trucks here, not a 58. You don't have the frame width restriction or the steering box configuration on the 58 that causes the problem on the 51/52.
Sanderson Headers for Ford FE 332-428" engine applications.
I'd be real interested in seeing a picture of those headers and a link to the Sanderson site that shows them - because there were no Sanderson "Block Hugger" headers for the FE engines when I was on the site last night - only the one I posted the picture of which is for the FE in an F-100 (53+).
Also we are talking aboput 51/52 trucks here, not a 58. You don't have the frame width restriction or the steering box configuration on the 58 that causes the problem on the 51/52.
#26
The FT manifold's outlet doesn't point straight up and down, it angles back towards the block a bit. I tried to hold the ruler ('s) in a way that one could get an idea how the manifold would come down. And the other hand holding the camera. First pic is flat to the outlet, and shows how far it is from the block and where it touches the block on the line. The second pic shows the line at which the bottom of the block (at the point the pan bolts on) comes out to meet the line at which the outer edge of the outlet comes down. Holding the protractor would've required a third hand.
#28
The FT manifold's outlet doesn't point straight up and down, it angles back towards the block a bit. I tried to hold the ruler ('s) in a way that one could get an idea how the manifold would come down. And the other hand holding the camera. First pic is flat to the outlet, and shows how far it is from the block and where it touches the block on the line. The second pic shows the line at which the bottom of the block (at the point the pan bolts on) comes out to meet the line at which the outer edge of the outlet comes down. Holding the protractor would've required a third hand.
Thanks Scott! Wow! I'm looking at your ruler and with what it says, that would be DARNED close - like 1/4 inch either way. That's the reason I measured from the frame up to the bottom bolt holes. It looks like he might have a few (2 or 3) inches to curve the exhaust pipe in toward the engine that little bit and just make that work. But it's so close that I'll bet you would almost have to try it to see. 1/4 inch - fit or doesn't fit.
#29
I'm very curious too!
#30
that would be DARNED close - like 1/4 inch either way. That's the reason I measured from the frame up to the bottom bolt holes. It looks like he might have a few (2 or 3) inches to curve the exhaust pipe in toward the engine that little bit and just make that work. But it's so close that I'll bet you would almost have to try it to see. 1/4 inch - fit or doesn't fit.