1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

FE engine into '52?

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  #16  
Old 10-25-2010, 02:46 PM
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What about FTE (big truck) center dump exhaust manifolds? See photo:

http://www.fordification.com/bumpwik...361T391Tc1.jpg

The exhaust manifolds are a ram's-horn design that will physically bolt up to an FE, but they contain an exhaust crossover port which would have to be welded shut to use on an FE engine. However, you might run into a side clearance problem when trying to use these on a smaller vehicle, since they angle out quite a bit.
 
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by FordHoarder
What about FTE (big truck) center dump exhaust manifolds? See photo:

http://www.fordification.com/bumpwik...361T391Tc1.jpg
Maybe. The quote about running into side clearance problems are words to be headed.
 
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:56 PM
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Have you looked at the Sanderson block huggers.
 
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:22 PM
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Pics of my 391HD-FT with the manifolds you mention. You can hopefully get an idea where the center dump of the manifold lies in relation to where the motor mount would be. (this truck had front and rear mounts)
Second pic shows the distance from the block straight out to the far edge of the center dump on the manifold. That should give ya an idea how far in or out it sits.
 
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mbrowne
Have you looked at the Sanderson block huggers.
Sanderson doesn't make Blockhuggar headers for the FF/FE engines. I didn't find anyone (in 2007) that had block hugger headers for FEs. That's why I paid $1700 to have mine made!

Here's a 427 header that is the only model they make with all four tubes gathering and dropping straight down together. Note it is cnetered directly in line with the #7 Port mounting holes. You'd need at least 2 inches (1 3/4" tubes) aft of that to fit in front of the steering box - no gots....See the second pic - taken straight down from the #7 Port mounting holes:

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BUT, I'm noticing now with my new motor mounts (that replaced the old after the engine was installed and headers fabricated) that there is about another inch of space in the forward part of the box (that 5 1/2 by 5 1/2 inch box I showed in the first set of pictures) now. I measured from the mounting face of the header to the closest part of the frame in the box and you have six inches before the header touches the frame, and the center is open (see the second pic above for the opening between #6 and #7 ports)

If the exhaust pipe can be formed to stay within that 6 inches and less than 2 1/2 inches in diameter, I believe the FTE Big Truck manifold you and Scott are talking about would JUST fit. But lots of heat on the steering box and lots of heat on the frame, wires and brake lines.

Hey Scott, can you take one more picture - this time with the ruler sitting flush on the surface the exhaust pipe would mount to and touching the engine block on the end? THX. I measured out from my block like you had the ruler and had a 7 1/4 inch space to the frame (where yours appears to be about 8 to 8 1/4). Also, note that my frame sits 4 1/4 inches below the lower mounting hole on the #7 port. In case you are thinking you might have the height to curve the exhaust pipe back in toward the engine before it gets down to frame height.

Thus back to my original statement that your motor mounts may dictate your exhaust and vice versa!
 
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:56 AM
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How about flipping the FT manifold over, and going up and back down with the exhaust? Somewhat similar to what Ford did with the 292 in the F100's, except on those they crossed the pipe over across the top front of the engine.
 
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Old 10-26-2010, 12:40 PM
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If you are going to start going that far, I'd just go with the stock exhaust manifold mounted backwards and loop the pipe back - using the remote oil filter.

There is a point where this can start to get ridiculous!
 
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Old 10-26-2010, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Julies Cool F1
If you are going to start going that far, I'd just go with the stock exhaust manifold mounted backwards and loop the pipe back - using the remote oil filter.

There is a point where this can start to get ridiculous!
That's true.
 
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:20 PM
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I have the Sanderson block huggers on my new FE390 on a stand for my 58. The collector comes down form #7 and the out side of the collector is 4" form the side of the block about 2-1/2" down from bottom of the block.
 
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Old 10-26-2010, 09:45 PM
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Here's the link that shows the only 6 headers that Sanderson makes for the FE. None of them are "block huggers" and none of them will fit on an FE in a 51/52 F1-6 truck - period!

Sanderson Headers for Ford FE 332-428" engine applications.

I'd be real interested in seeing a picture of those headers and a link to the Sanderson site that shows them - because there were no Sanderson "Block Hugger" headers for the FE engines when I was on the site last night - only the one I posted the picture of which is for the FE in an F-100 (53+).

Also we are talking aboput 51/52 trucks here, not a 58. You don't have the frame width restriction or the steering box configuration on the 58 that causes the problem on the 51/52.
 
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:31 PM
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The FT manifold's outlet doesn't point straight up and down, it angles back towards the block a bit. I tried to hold the ruler ('s) in a way that one could get an idea how the manifold would come down. And the other hand holding the camera. First pic is flat to the outlet, and shows how far it is from the block and where it touches the block on the line. The second pic shows the line at which the bottom of the block (at the point the pan bolts on) comes out to meet the line at which the outer edge of the outlet comes down. Holding the protractor would've required a third hand.
 
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:02 PM
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I will try and get a picture this week. Not good at the picture posting thing. The collector is so close to the pan I thought it may work for you.
 
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by havi
The FT manifold's outlet doesn't point straight up and down, it angles back towards the block a bit. I tried to hold the ruler ('s) in a way that one could get an idea how the manifold would come down. And the other hand holding the camera. First pic is flat to the outlet, and shows how far it is from the block and where it touches the block on the line. The second pic shows the line at which the bottom of the block (at the point the pan bolts on) comes out to meet the line at which the outer edge of the outlet comes down. Holding the protractor would've required a third hand.
.....And I was holding my cold frosty with my left foot! LOL.

Thanks Scott! Wow! I'm looking at your ruler and with what it says, that would be DARNED close - like 1/4 inch either way. That's the reason I measured from the frame up to the bottom bolt holes. It looks like he might have a few (2 or 3) inches to curve the exhaust pipe in toward the engine that little bit and just make that work. But it's so close that I'll bet you would almost have to try it to see. 1/4 inch - fit or doesn't fit.
 
  #29  
Old 10-28-2010, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by mbrowne
I will try and get a picture this week. Not good at the picture posting thing. The collector is so close to the pan I thought it may work for you.
It might. But what would be better than a picture is a part number or web site that he can use to check them out, and possibly order them if they will work!

I'm very curious too!
 
  #30  
Old 10-28-2010, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Julies Cool F1
that would be DARNED close - like 1/4 inch either way. That's the reason I measured from the frame up to the bottom bolt holes. It looks like he might have a few (2 or 3) inches to curve the exhaust pipe in toward the engine that little bit and just make that work. But it's so close that I'll bet you would almost have to try it to see. 1/4 inch - fit or doesn't fit.
Julie, do you mean 1/4" clearance, +/-, to the frame? If so, just a bit of grinding on the frame and/or the exhaust manifold should solve that problem.
 


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