Parasitic drain?
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
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I'm having a similar issue with my '06 F250. I am getting a .45 amp draw even after the interior light delay times out. Everything off and all aftermarket equipment disconnected. Took it to the dealer and the tech thinks I may have a bad guage cluster ($423.00) but needs to confirm that with the ford engineering team as the interior light time delay and battery saver modules are apparently built into the cluster but detailed schematics of that component aren't available to the tech. I will post the results. By the way, the battery drain stopped when I pulled the fuse for the instrument panel.
Anyone ever hear of this?
Thanks. Chris
Anyone ever hear of this?
Thanks. Chris
New User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Battery drain
Have you found your issue? I have the same thing, have spent a few thousand dollars and am the same place I started. I replaced the gauge cluster became a mechanic was sure that was the issue, $400 later and the issue persists.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
300 to 450 milliamps parasitic drain is not unusual, however, it powers down to less than that...
Reset the computers, and if that doesn't do it.... a balky BCM that is reset will often fix itself, unless there are other circuit issues (find by pulling fuses). IT is possible the ipod prevented a power down.. and then.. problems from there. Depending on which circuit it was plugged into.
Start checking for bad alternator, batteries, wiring / connections / connectors.
Sounds like a lot of bad alternators out there, or bad sense /exciter connections / circuits assuming it is a 2 wire pigtail.
Oh... tell the joker tossing in new instrument panels to put a new pigtail on (what he should have done first) and retest alternator for output voltage and current.
I am willing to bet the fella did not put a new pigtail first before the instrument panel was replaced.
BTW, tell the fella not to cut his own tail off and try to use that --- it wouldn't work.
Pay $$$ at the dealer and get the proper pigtail kit.
The real parasitic drain are the techs that wacked you for their goofing around... on your dime... replacing parts that are in all probability, not broke.
Reset the computers, and if that doesn't do it.... a balky BCM that is reset will often fix itself, unless there are other circuit issues (find by pulling fuses). IT is possible the ipod prevented a power down.. and then.. problems from there. Depending on which circuit it was plugged into.
Start checking for bad alternator, batteries, wiring / connections / connectors.
Sounds like a lot of bad alternators out there, or bad sense /exciter connections / circuits assuming it is a 2 wire pigtail.
Oh... tell the joker tossing in new instrument panels to put a new pigtail on (what he should have done first) and retest alternator for output voltage and current.
I am willing to bet the fella did not put a new pigtail first before the instrument panel was replaced.
BTW, tell the fella not to cut his own tail off and try to use that --- it wouldn't work.
Pay $$$ at the dealer and get the proper pigtail kit.
The real parasitic drain are the techs that wacked you for their goofing around... on your dime... replacing parts that are in all probability, not broke.
New User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thanks for the replies.
If I pull the #2 fuse, 10A, the draw will go away. This is listed as a cluster fuse. When I pull it the gauges still work, the information center in the cluster and the interior lights will not function.
I have had 2 different garages tell me the cluster is the issue, so I replaced it and painfully paid the dealer to reflash the cluster so my truck would accept it.
The draw continues.
I guess it's possible that the "new" cluster from Ford is bad, I understand they just rebuild them.
Or do I have more of an issue?
If I shut the truck down and pull the cables I start with a draw of around 4. amps and then it quickly decreases to 200-300Ma, sometimes it will then drop to 40-50Ma on it's own, but not often. Most times if I pull the #2 fuse it immediately drops to 15-18Ma and stays there.
Whatever my issue is it's very intermittant.
New batteries and they have even been tested, new alternator that works like a champ. I think I have ruled out the easy things.
Thanks
Mike
If I pull the #2 fuse, 10A, the draw will go away. This is listed as a cluster fuse. When I pull it the gauges still work, the information center in the cluster and the interior lights will not function.
I have had 2 different garages tell me the cluster is the issue, so I replaced it and painfully paid the dealer to reflash the cluster so my truck would accept it.
The draw continues.
I guess it's possible that the "new" cluster from Ford is bad, I understand they just rebuild them.
Or do I have more of an issue?
If I shut the truck down and pull the cables I start with a draw of around 4. amps and then it quickly decreases to 200-300Ma, sometimes it will then drop to 40-50Ma on it's own, but not often. Most times if I pull the #2 fuse it immediately drops to 15-18Ma and stays there.
Whatever my issue is it's very intermittant.
New batteries and they have even been tested, new alternator that works like a champ. I think I have ruled out the easy things.
Thanks
Mike
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
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I feel your pain friend. I had similar readings and then pulling that 10a fuse stops the draw. It has to be somewhere on that circuit. My diesel tech at the dealer had to contact Ford's technical team because internal schematics of the cluster itself were not available to him. The tech team agreed it had to be in the cluster. My tech also said they just rebuild the clusters. Sounds like you got my old one. 
The dealer had to order it pre programmed with the correct milage, etc. from the supplier. I think you may have received a bad cluster since they will check okay on a bench with alll the guages working. I think I would see if I could get it replaced. Maybe a dealer diagnosis would be worth the money. At least you wouldn't be stuck if they are wrong. Good luck.
The dealer had to order it pre programmed with the correct milage, etc. from the supplier. I think you may have received a bad cluster since they will check okay on a bench with alll the guages working. I think I would see if I could get it replaced. Maybe a dealer diagnosis would be worth the money. At least you wouldn't be stuck if they are wrong. Good luck.
New User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thank you for the ideas.
I happened to have a spare gauge cluster laying around, from a junked truck my buddy parted out.
I checked my draw with the "new" cluster I just purchased from Ford, 280-290mA.
The cluster has has two wiring harnesses that plug into the top of it. I unplugged the right sided connector first, I think it is grey. The draw remained the same, in the 280-290mA range. I unplugged the right sided connector and the draw went away. Well dropped to 40mA.
Sweet this must be the issue right?
I get the second cluster in there, plug up the left sided grey connector, draw remains unchanged, sweet.... This must be it... Plug in the blue, right sided connector... Draw jumps to 400 ish mA and then settles down to around 300mA. Higher than before.. I also noticed that when plugging either gauge in the needles on the gauge shake, looks like a seizure. This lasts 5 seconds or so..
So is it likely that I had a failure of the old cluster, the new cluster and the junk cluster I bought?
Does anyone have an idea of what the blue connection ( right sided ) on the harness goes to or also controls?
Thanks
Mike
I happened to have a spare gauge cluster laying around, from a junked truck my buddy parted out.
I checked my draw with the "new" cluster I just purchased from Ford, 280-290mA.
The cluster has has two wiring harnesses that plug into the top of it. I unplugged the right sided connector first, I think it is grey. The draw remained the same, in the 280-290mA range. I unplugged the right sided connector and the draw went away. Well dropped to 40mA.
Sweet this must be the issue right?
I get the second cluster in there, plug up the left sided grey connector, draw remains unchanged, sweet.... This must be it... Plug in the blue, right sided connector... Draw jumps to 400 ish mA and then settles down to around 300mA. Higher than before.. I also noticed that when plugging either gauge in the needles on the gauge shake, looks like a seizure. This lasts 5 seconds or so..
So is it likely that I had a failure of the old cluster, the new cluster and the junk cluster I bought?
Does anyone have an idea of what the blue connection ( right sided ) on the harness goes to or also controls?
Thanks
Mike
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Mike,
It seems to me that if you are getting different readings from all 3 clusters, something is not right with at least two of them. I'm not sure which connector controls what, but I do know that the time delays for the dome lights and the battery saver feature (this is what shuts off the interior lights after leaving them on or leaving a door open for too long) are both controlled by the cluster. That is why the interior lights won't work when you pull the 10a fuse to the cluster. It seems there is quite a lot that goes on inside there.
Also, I don't think plugging in a cluster while the batteries are still connected can be good, although it may be entertaining to watch the needles jump around.
Hope this helps.
Chris
It seems to me that if you are getting different readings from all 3 clusters, something is not right with at least two of them. I'm not sure which connector controls what, but I do know that the time delays for the dome lights and the battery saver feature (this is what shuts off the interior lights after leaving them on or leaving a door open for too long) are both controlled by the cluster. That is why the interior lights won't work when you pull the 10a fuse to the cluster. It seems there is quite a lot that goes on inside there.
Also, I don't think plugging in a cluster while the batteries are still connected can be good, although it may be entertaining to watch the needles jump around.
Hope this helps.
Chris
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 564
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I've read battery voltage numbers on this thread, but no temperature numbers.
A fully charged six cell 12 volt battery should test at 12.6 volts at +20 Celsius 12 hours after removal of charger (get rid of the surface charge).
Subtract .022 volts for every degree Celsius below +20.
A fully charged six cell 12 volt battery should test at 12.6 volts at +20 Celsius 12 hours after removal of charger (get rid of the surface charge).
Subtract .022 volts for every degree Celsius below +20.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 675
Likes: 1
From: NV
Thank you for the ideas.
I happened to have a spare gauge cluster laying around, from a junked truck my buddy parted out.
I checked my draw with the "new" cluster I just purchased from Ford, 280-290mA.
The cluster has has two wiring harnesses that plug into the top of it. I unplugged the right sided connector first, I think it is grey. The draw remained the same, in the 280-290mA range. I unplugged the right sided connector and the draw went away. Well dropped to 40mA.
Sweet this must be the issue right?
I get the second cluster in there, plug up the left sided grey connector, draw remains unchanged, sweet.... This must be it... Plug in the blue, right sided connector... Draw jumps to 400 ish mA and then settles down to around 300mA. Higher than before.. I also noticed that when plugging either gauge in the needles on the gauge shake, looks like a seizure. This lasts 5 seconds or so..
So is it likely that I had a failure of the old cluster, the new cluster and the junk cluster I bought?
Does anyone have an idea of what the blue connection ( right sided ) on the harness goes to or also controls?
Thanks
Mike
I happened to have a spare gauge cluster laying around, from a junked truck my buddy parted out.
I checked my draw with the "new" cluster I just purchased from Ford, 280-290mA.
The cluster has has two wiring harnesses that plug into the top of it. I unplugged the right sided connector first, I think it is grey. The draw remained the same, in the 280-290mA range. I unplugged the right sided connector and the draw went away. Well dropped to 40mA.
Sweet this must be the issue right?
I get the second cluster in there, plug up the left sided grey connector, draw remains unchanged, sweet.... This must be it... Plug in the blue, right sided connector... Draw jumps to 400 ish mA and then settles down to around 300mA. Higher than before.. I also noticed that when plugging either gauge in the needles on the gauge shake, looks like a seizure. This lasts 5 seconds or so..
So is it likely that I had a failure of the old cluster, the new cluster and the junk cluster I bought?
Does anyone have an idea of what the blue connection ( right sided ) on the harness goes to or also controls?
Thanks
Mike
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