Any updates??

What part of Georgia?? Anybody from Georgia can help the man out?

I don't think I've ever seen a vehicle that would start with headlights on without at least a momentary dimming of the lights.

If it's low battery voltage or a hung-up starter, the starter will draw so much current, the lights will dim. If the lights aren't dimming, there's no voltage getting to the starter.

 

no one has mentioned this...but could it be my glow plugs? when i first bought the truck like 2 months ago....i was still in gasser mode (came from a 2005 f150 5.4L) and was forgettin to let the glow plugs heat up before cranking for the first like 2 weeks....could i have possibly ruined them and now they arent getting hot enough with my batteries alone and the extra voltage from another truck is getting them hot enough to crank up?

not sure if that makes any mechanical sense at all jsut a thought...

 

On my first 7.3, my starter got jammed once when I tried to start the truck with low batteries. All I did was unbolt the starter and bolt it back up after it relaxed.

 

Make sure you jump the one on the left make sure the battery your using to jump it is 850 amps,

 

if your glow plugs went bad you need charge in your baterry to see if your voltage drops when you try to start even with bad glow plugs your truck will crank and crank and crank and youll get white smoke

 

well dealership says they checked it and i have low ICP's and its either a bad o-ring a bad injector or somehting with fuel rail?
going to cost 400 to take apart motor to get to it then i gotta pay on top of that for whatever is wrong....

i checked the batteries and they were just dead, so my truck coulda been starting off jump before my o-ring/injector/fuel rail went compeltly bad.....good thing is internstate replaced my batteries under warranty for free....

but i do recall now after them telling me this that last time i was trying to start my truck it looked like some smoke or steam or something was coming out from the engine bay on right side....so could that be the o-ring leaking?

 

also....when trying to start my truck past 2 days my RPM's maybe hit 200 RPM not even to my 500 RPM marker... so guess that does indicate low injector pressure.

 

check with your local mechanic friends if you have any stay away from the dealers they charge 70+$$$ an hour per mechanic, the fuel injector system isn't soooooooooo complicated what year was your truck again? It could cost alot less

 

May help to post in the 7.3 forum 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Maybe a mod could move this one

 

mod please move so i can get help thanks

 

The basic needs for this motor to start are 10.5 volts when cranking, 500PSI seen on the ICP and fuel, the basics of full oil, and oil in the HPOP resevoir about 3/4" from the top, beyond that it should attempt. If its getting cool out, the glow plugs can be easily checked more likely is the GPR (glow plug relay) which can be jumpered as well to see if that helped, if it is your GPR plugging the truck in with the block heater for a few hours should eliminate that. To check the GP's you need to have a meter to test the pins at the UVCH(under valve cover harness) and they will test like this

G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G

G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed

You should measure .5 - 2 ohms between G and ground, and around 3.5-5 ohms between I and C.

If you see opens when testing that could be an indication the plug under the valve cover came loose.

 

Alright so dealer said that it wont start because im not getting any compression and its either a bad o-ring or bad injector or one other thing i cant remember. and that it was going to cost 400 in labor to tear down the top end of motor figure out which of the problems it is fix it then put motor back together. On top of 400 i gotta pay for whichever of the problems it is.

THEN

my buddy Kent went up there today to take a look at it, hes manager of a few Advance Autoparts and has done alot of work on diesels on the side. He said he thinks they are trying to screw me over big time. That he looked under hood at the dealership and saw a brand new Crankshaft positioning sensor in the package, and the wiring harness in package sitting there as if waiting to be installed. And that that could be the reason my truck isnt starting because I need 1000RPMs to crank up and im not getting it and that controls it. That he thinks those parts are there ready to be installed once I give the authorization to Ford to tear down the motor and get working on "one of those problems" and then once they tear it down they call me up and say "oh we found out its the crankshaft positioning sensor" and then make me pay for it when they knew it was that the whole time and make alot of extra money. When in reality they dont have to tear down the motor to replace the wiring and sensor, its like a one hour job. And I find it very funny because I called up the dealership earlier last week and left a message saying "I did some research and talked to the previous owner and both suggested the crankshaft positiioning sensor/wiring harness for it could cause the problem also" Then the next day after i left the message i went to the dealership to put free new interstate batteries in covered by warranty and when i got under the hood i had seen the same parts i mentioned in my message sitting there. So when Kent went today the parts were STILL sitting under the hood and they are deffinatly brand new from ford and not from me.

So what do yall think??? I mean i dont beleive that one single o-ring could cause total de-compression to wear there isnt enough compression to start up out of a V-8. i could be wrong but i dont beleive it.