OT New shop
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
Getting in a little late on this but here something I did and use them often.
Before I poured the floor I sunk tie downs. I used 20" truck wheels and welded a 10 inch diameter pipe to the centers. About 4 inched from the top of the pipe I cut a hole in the pipe and inserted a piece of small I beam through the pipe.
This gave me a place to wrap a chain around the I beam inside the pipe. I sunk the wheel flat down and poured the floor. The pipe was about 10 inches long. This let the large truck wheel be under about 10 or 12 inches of concrete and the top of the pipe level with the surface of the floor. I have a flat plate that fits over the pipe and it is level with the floor.
I very often uncover the pipe and chain to the I beam if I need to hold something or bend something heavy. I have 9 under my floor in a 3 foot square pattern.
I do heavy body work and often need to bend frames or body parts. I do have a frame machine but is sometimes much easier to just chain the vehicle to the floor and put a floor jack under the frame to remove a small bend or twist.
I also have a trolley beam and trolley mounted running across the shop and often use it removing engines and moving them across the shop, or simply removing something heavy from the back of the truck. It is faster and easier than using a cherry picker and requires no floor space.
My shop is 50X70 and not large enough. I didn't use the higher ceiling and have my lift outside.
The lower ceiling helps heating and cooling cost.
Good luck what ever you decide to build.
Larry
Before I poured the floor I sunk tie downs. I used 20" truck wheels and welded a 10 inch diameter pipe to the centers. About 4 inched from the top of the pipe I cut a hole in the pipe and inserted a piece of small I beam through the pipe.
This gave me a place to wrap a chain around the I beam inside the pipe. I sunk the wheel flat down and poured the floor. The pipe was about 10 inches long. This let the large truck wheel be under about 10 or 12 inches of concrete and the top of the pipe level with the surface of the floor. I have a flat plate that fits over the pipe and it is level with the floor.
I very often uncover the pipe and chain to the I beam if I need to hold something or bend something heavy. I have 9 under my floor in a 3 foot square pattern.
I do heavy body work and often need to bend frames or body parts. I do have a frame machine but is sometimes much easier to just chain the vehicle to the floor and put a floor jack under the frame to remove a small bend or twist.
I also have a trolley beam and trolley mounted running across the shop and often use it removing engines and moving them across the shop, or simply removing something heavy from the back of the truck. It is faster and easier than using a cherry picker and requires no floor space.
My shop is 50X70 and not large enough. I didn't use the higher ceiling and have my lift outside.
The lower ceiling helps heating and cooling cost.
Good luck what ever you decide to build.
Larry
Sam
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
I agree about planning for wiring/water before building if building detached I had 3 2" plastic conduits with sweep elbows run in a trench exiting up thru the floor in the corner of the garage. Soon I will snake pex pipe water line thru one, data line thru another and save the 3rd for future? I picked up a SS bar sink with gooseneck faucet set at my local recycler for 10.00.
Since my 4' high block foundation is 3' into the hillside at the rear I had a roll on elastic waterproofing membrane added to the outside of the block where it is below grade protected by 3/4" foam board and a french drain all the way around to keep everything dry.
Since my 4' high block foundation is 3' into the hillside at the rear I had a roll on elastic waterproofing membrane added to the outside of the block where it is below grade protected by 3/4" foam board and a french drain all the way around to keep everything dry.
have power, water, sink drain and center drains run. have to squeeze in another spare conduit, pour monday.
Sam
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 21
From: HUDSON, FL
My garage is 32W x 40L x12 ft high celing 2 10X10 overhead doors &
a 36 in man door-if you can put in a toilet,also a slop sink,i dont have
any heat in my garage but i do have 8 celing fans (all given to me free)
i have 8 2tube 4ft flourescent lights 2work benches about 30in wide x10ft long
when i put my2x12 together to make my work bench i put Liquid nails in
between each board then i put a 1x3 against the wall & the bench ,used
Liquid nails again,then i put varnish over all of the wood.The liquid nails
stops all the little screws & other things from falling & getting stuck between the boards
My compressor is in the corner by the overhead doors,i ran tubing all the way
around the building having outlets for my compressor & electrical outlets.
I hope that this helps you out a little
a 36 in man door-if you can put in a toilet,also a slop sink,i dont have
any heat in my garage but i do have 8 celing fans (all given to me free)
i have 8 2tube 4ft flourescent lights 2work benches about 30in wide x10ft long
when i put my2x12 together to make my work bench i put Liquid nails in
between each board then i put a 1x3 against the wall & the bench ,used
Liquid nails again,then i put varnish over all of the wood.The liquid nails
stops all the little screws & other things from falling & getting stuck between the boards
My compressor is in the corner by the overhead doors,i ran tubing all the way
around the building having outlets for my compressor & electrical outlets.
I hope that this helps you out a little
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN
Chuck and TX, you may be right. Without letting this thread get off topic, I'll just say that the argument between the contractor and the concrete stainer sub. made it rather interesting. Either way, what's done is done. 
One more suggestion for the pour is chain pots. They are nice for doing major bodywork..... I'll agree on that. My next garage will have them.
One more suggestion for the pour is chain pots. They are nice for doing major bodywork..... I'll agree on that. My next garage will have them.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I waited 25 years to get my garage, so I had plenty of time to research and plan, and I did a lot of it.
If your garage doesn't have high ceilings you might consider a mid rise lift, a portable drive on lift that uses and electric scissors mechanism to lift a max of 4'. Even if you can't stand under a vehicle that high it still is very convenient to be able to use a rolling stool and work sitting down. Even if you can only lift 2" high, it is still easier to work off a creeper at that height underneath without banging your head all the time and makes doing the lower half the bodywork a pleasure rather than a pain. If your budget is still too strained, get yourself 4 of the wheeled dollies that go under the tires. They still give you some extra height and the ability to move the vehicle around the shop, even sideways.
If your garage doesn't have high ceilings you might consider a mid rise lift, a portable drive on lift that uses and electric scissors mechanism to lift a max of 4'. Even if you can't stand under a vehicle that high it still is very convenient to be able to use a rolling stool and work sitting down. Even if you can only lift 2" high, it is still easier to work off a creeper at that height underneath without banging your head all the time and makes doing the lower half the bodywork a pleasure rather than a pain. If your budget is still too strained, get yourself 4 of the wheeled dollies that go under the tires. They still give you some extra height and the ability to move the vehicle around the shop, even sideways.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
Sam
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 914
Likes: 51
From: SW Missouri
Sam
Great
I'm glad you got that done. I think you will use it a lot. If possible you might try to get another one in place.because if you realy need to pull something with only one it will still try to swivel around so two would work much better.
Larry
Great
I'm glad you got that done. I think you will use it a lot. If possible you might try to get another one in place.because if you realy need to pull something with only one it will still try to swivel around so two would work much better.
Larry
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 494
Likes: 1
From: Guelph
Thanks everyone for the great ideas.I was thinking of some sort of sissor lift because of my ceiling height limitations. Anyone know of some good companys that make these?I think I am good with my oil furance for heat.I already have it and its in good shape.I am going tomorrow to pick up a good use oil tank for it.All our oil tanks up here have to be inspected and not be older then 2002.Something about old tanks rusting out and falling over when filled.Makes a big mess if it happens in your basement.Will proably start buying doors and window,shingles etc. when they come on sale to help keep cost down.Will keep everyone posted with pic as I start.Wont be till March Winters coming here.So I have all winter to get it right.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Bend-Pak (somewhat "unusual" name for the company, "so they gotta be good" to borrow another oddly named company's mantra...) makes a high quality product.
I like this type since it leaves the center clear.
FREE SHIPPING — Bend Pak Clear Center Low Rise Vehicle Lift — 6000-Lb. Capacity, Model# P-6 | Scissor Lifts | Northern Tool + Equipment
I like this type since it leaves the center clear.
FREE SHIPPING — Bend Pak Clear Center Low Rise Vehicle Lift — 6000-Lb. Capacity, Model# P-6 | Scissor Lifts | Northern Tool + Equipment
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