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i was preping my oil pan for por 15 and oil started coming out the flaking metal. so i orderer pan and ford sealant $217 dollars will be here by friday. so i started taking apart anyone have any hints other basic things, what to dissconnect?? i got ac condiser off to side so dont have to disconnect and the front coolers almost all out what else??? any specialtly tools needed ??
I never done it.. but they say you have to pull the engine to replace the pan. Others have said to cut the cross member and re-weld.. (sounds a little risky)
The oil pan per the workshop manual is supposed to be installed with the engine removed. You will see when you go to remove the old one why that it is. The oil pan is so deep it is difficult to get out. It is possible to do in the truck but you have to jack the motor way up.
oil pan ordered and engine almost ready to come out 5 hours later. all need to do is pull turbo and unbolt ehaust, transmission, fuel lines(need tool)and engine and its free, im planning on using my dads cat forklift to remove and install was planning on letting drain for day and cleaning up before new pan on, dont have engine stand. im doing it the right way. por 15 the crap out of new pan before it hits the truck. not bad so far just me besides my dads help with hood so i thnk im moving along well. just if anyone has hints of removal of engine or placing back in cus my first time engine removal on a vehical, usually motorcycles and sleds before today let me know
Does anyone know if the OBS 7.3 L oil pans work in a super duty because my dads 96 oil pan looks brand new where mine is rusting out so I think the must have switched to a crappier metal and maybe one of those will hopefully never need to be replaced
so 7 hours total work time so far and engine is ready to pull out besides the fuel lines need tool still and 4 transmission bolts are still in till i get tool think im doing good so far hope to get istalled friday night thru the night in to sat will be pulled by 7 tonight and pan off and hanging till friday should be good after i clean it up for new sealant. question is how do i check the injector nozzels as stated in other topics? what need to be tighten to, lbs wise? also can you belive they want like $1500 dollars to do this at a shop thats 3/4 of a months wages plus waiting on there schedual. and actually so far its not that bad
I pulled my engine with a forklift. Put it back in with an overhead hoist. Dont know what your options are where you are working, but I believe that the hoist for the install was a lot easier than the forklift would have been, no engine noise (better communication) and we could make smaller adjustments in height and forward/backwards putting it in. Just my .02 on that part.
Hate that you have to pull the engine for a leak, but sounds like your comming along good with it.
yeah our forklift is pretty good got to love them cat's and it adjust side to side also so hope will be good only cat we own cus john deere doesnt make a hardtire fork lift
its like 260 shipped i figured a new pan with sealant is 217 so im doing right instead of something that doesnt have garentee and my new oem ford pan will be por 15 before installed so i will never have to fix again
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