ok guys i know this subject has probably been beat to death, but i have searched and searched and read and read and still have not come to a complete parts list of what all i need so i'll do my best to list my current parts list and if you kind fellers would point anything i may have missed i'd be appreciative..
1. TTB front end with 3:55 gears
2. 4x4 radius arms
3. (this is an area i have not found an answer for) i have a M5R2 and i want to keep the street manner it has but i dont want to swap trannys, if i have to ok, but if i can get by without it that would be great, i want to just pull my 2wd tailshaft off and put a 4wd tailshaft on.. will this work?
4. the stock style t-case, with this build im going for "good enough for stock, good enough for me"
5. tranny x member for 4x4
6. front drive shaft (my truck is ex-cab, will i need one out of another ex-cab?)
7. rear drive shaft..?
8. 4x4 coil srings

i'm wanting to do a 4" lift with 33's, from what i have found, for street and just a mud run here and a mud run there i should have no problems with the TTB and 33's.

i want to have a good hard parts list so i can start locating the parts and buying them little at the time, i'm 17, little to no income, and way way to much time on my hands.

and any help is greatly appreciated but i would really like all the "ney sayers" to not do that.. i know it would be easier to buy a 4x4 and lift it, tires, ect.. but any 95-96 4x4 in my price range in my area has been ragged until its more trouble than its worth

also truck is a '96 f150 302/M5OD-R2

thanks! i know you guys know your chit!

 

I apologize, I don't have much input on the questions but, just some suggestions:

1) Build a mudder and keep your truck as a 2wd DD/hotrod
1977 f-150 stepside 4x4 big block

2) Put your stuff on a 4x4 frame
atlanta cars & trucks - by owner classifieds "f150 4x4" - craigslist

3) Since your gonna be doing "custom" work, why don't you just go with a straight axle?
D44 - $200
front dana 44 out of 77.5/78/79 bronco

TTB D44 - $200
dana 44 front axle

 

You might as well swap the tranny to a 4 wheel drive tranny, It'll be much easier on your self and possibly your wallet depending on how you go about getting a 4wd tailshaft. Really I dont think you can change the mazda trannys over.

As for front driveshaft, the ext cab doesn't matter. If you go with a borg waner 1356 t-case I believe any front shaft that came with that case will work but I also remember one on tranny/tcase combo had a longer one. Just go to the junk yard witha tape measure. You shouldn't have trouble finding one. The rear shaft could be a little tough to find cause every yard around here wrecks the rear shafts with their fork lift.

 

This is actually a very easy conversion, I converted my 96 RC LB F150 300 six 5 spd to a 4x4 a year or so ago.
1. The 1/2 ton TTB front ends most commonly came with 3.55s, especially in V8 trucks and fullsize Broncos
2. When you get your front end assembly make sure you get it with the radius arms intact, or they can be purchased separately.
3. You can change tailshafts in the Mazda trans, however you will have to remove it from the truck and most likely have to disassemble the entire unit to swap tail shafts. You could look for a 4wd version of that trans. I recommend swapping it out for a ZF 5 speed, it's a much more durable unit. It has the same .76 overdrive as the Mazda but it has a super low 5.72 first gear with is great for towing and 4 wheeling. I swapped in a ZF in my truck and absolutely love it.
4. The stock t-case in these trucks is the BW1356. It's a pretty tough piece, as far as chain driven units go. When you get your t-case I recommend opening it up and giving it a quick once over. These t-cases have an internal oil pump in them make sure it's not seized up.
5. The trans crossmember will come from any 5 speed 4x4 truck or Bronco from 1988 to 96.
6. The front driveshaft from any 5 speed 4x4 F150 or Bronco will fit, super cabs were no different.
7. The rear driveshaft will have to come from a super cab truck depending in whether it's a short bed or long bed. I ended up taking some measurements and had my original rear driveshaft shortend and rebalanced for pretty cheap.
8. The front coil springs on 1/2 ton pickups and Broncos were basically the same regardless if they were 2wd or 4wd. However I believe super cabs had heavier rated springs.

A 4" lift will bolt right onto your truck, 1/2 ton frames were the basically the same from 1980 through 96 2wd and 4wd. The TTB will handle 33s without a problem. The factory 4x4 trucks had a 2" block in the rear, I just installed an add-a-leaf in mine to make up the difference. Converting an 80-96 F150 to 4x4 is probably one of easiest swaps out there, it's a direct bolt in swap.

 

I've got to agree with kirby Skip the ttb and go straight to a SAS...

Same amount of work with a better result...

 

I would not recomend a zf behind a 302. There is a reason they never came from the factory that way, the gear ratios are terrible in combo with the 302s power. I swaped one in my old truck and hated driving it on the street because th rpms dropped so far after every shift. Love it offroad though.

 

guys, i dont need or want to do a sas.. "good enough for stock, good enough for me"...

pkupman82, thank you, thats reall what i was looking for.

as for finding a rear shaft, the JY around here wont let you pull your own part, so if i go in pay for the rear shaft then they go and pull it.. they wont wreck it, im positive, these guys here are big time tight wads and hate giving money back.

also thanks bender99

i think i'm going to scratch the coils off my list just because i currently have 1-1.5" lift/HD coils and if i'm not mistaken NAPA has the same part# for the 2wd and 4wd..

also, i dont mean to sound rude, or un-appreciative, but it seems to me that a SAS is waayy over kill for my needs, plus the TTB is a bolt in deal, the sas just seems to big of a task for me to try and tackel. if i wanted to do a sas i would read and recite 9.ford.5's wright up on how to do it every night, i just don't want to do that.

 

Read the qoute...

 

why you guys always gotta be hating on the ttb? :flipoff:

302, ttb, and 33's will be fine for the average joe who only puts it in 4x to dick around once in a blue moon, or in winter conditions. and if you ever plan to go bigger it will last as long as you don't get stupid with the skinny pedal. just remember that your alignment with change day to day if you wheel it often, and it will wear the front tires weird if you don't keep it in check.

oh, and the same is true for rangers and explorers that came with ttb's, all the 4x stuff swaps right onto a 2x frame.

 

dragogt,
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0 itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset" itxtvisited="1">Originally Posted by STGFordCrazy04
Definition of Twin Traction Beam (TTB) <NOUN itxtvisited="1">Tee Tee Bee ~
A Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front axle is found in 83-96 Rangers/Explorers 80-96 F150s and 80-98 F250s. Its like a independent and solid axle had a late night drunken stupor sex-o-thon and had a basturd child. The only beneficial worthwile or nice thing I can say about them is they ride good on road while stock and absorb hard bumps offroad in like prerunner trucks. In all other applications they suck. It works very similar to the twin I beam suspensions of 2wd trucks. The axle is hinged on a crossmember that allows each tire to move independently of the other. They are expensive to lift even slightly over stock. The higher the lift the more stress it compounds on to the frame and TTB crossmember and it leads to stress cracks that drastically weakens the frame and is extremely dangerous. Common TTB sizes are D35 (rangers/explorers) D44 (F150s) and D50 (F250s). TTBs are much weaker than their solid axle counterparts. Anyone wanting tires larger than 35" and plan to wheel their truck with any amount of confidence MUST switch over to a solid front axle swap (SAS).

TTBs bring the suck!

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
THIS IS MY DD, ALL I WANT IS 4X4 TO PLAY WITH AT THE RIVER WHEN I GO ONCE A MONTH!!
Dude, seriously if i freaking wanted a D44 straight axle, and i had a use for one i would do a sas, but guess what? I don't want one and a sas is over kill for my needs/wants..
thank you fatdan, you make the 2nd person on here and the 15 millonth out of all to tell me basically the same thing.
dragogt, the highlighted part in the quote, that explains my situation in the most simplest form i can imagine. if you have any useful information that DOSE NOT point in the direction of a sas, i am all ears and will respectfully listen, if not STFU

 

You should do a SAS

 

Don't know if anyone's mentioned this or not, but doing a SAS would probably be ideal in your situation. You don't want an abortion of a solid axle, IFS, and kirby's mom under your truck do you?

 

ttb's have their place. they aren't for everyone, and if you plan to get a little further into wheeling i suggest this: Dana 60 Axles/Suspension Ford F350
i made my ttb live with 38's and 400hp, but after having a one ton 4x4 i don't think i could do it again. too much fun being wreckless

 

p.s. i'm alright with body lifts too because i am poor white trash, so take my advice for what it's worth

bitches be trippin' yo'

 

Sence your so smart Than maybe you missed this part..

Quote:

They are expensive to lift even slightly over stock. The higher the lift the more stress it compounds on to the frame and TTB crossmember and it leads to stress cracks that drastically weakens the frame and is extremely dangerous.

Do once, Do it Right, and Do a SAS...

TTB is barely ok on a Factory 4wd truck...

IF YOUR GOING TO DO ALL THE WORK OF CONVERTING TO 4X4 THAN DO THE SAS; YOU WILL THANK US FOR IT LATER......