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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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Brake question

Hey guys,
When I installed my L&L headers I re-routed the brake lines from the master cylinder to the portioning valve. I ran the front reservoir to the front part of the portioning valve and the rear reservoir to the rear side of the valve. I didn't take note of how they were ran before I took them off. My front brakes are now draging. Do I have my lines backwards or do I have something else going on? It both calipers drag so I think I have the lines ran backwards. And just to clarify, The larger(rear) reservoir controls the front brakes and vise-versa for the rear, correct? Thanks in advance!!!
 
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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It is actually called a Proportioning valve

It proportions the brake fluid per front and rear brakes allowing for the rears to come on first then the fronts take over the most braking

 
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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Yes, the larger reservior in the rear is for the front disc brakes.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
Yes, the larger reservior in the rear is for the front disc brakes.
Originally Posted by steponit
So according to the picture posted above and and what Mike has confirmed, I have the brakes backwards?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 07:25 PM
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Yup. They're backwards.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 09:36 PM
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Thanks for the help guys! Time to go make new brake lines
 
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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So I reran my brakes the correct way, front to back, back to front and bled all the brakes. My calipers are STILL dragging. Could both of my calipers have gone bad? Could I have got a piece of debris in the proportioning valve causing it to not release the front brakes? This is really starting to puzzle me and I want to drive my truck!!!!
 
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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New thought! I removed the mater cylinder and brake booster(as a whole unit) when I was putting my headers on. There were two shims that came off between the bracket and booster. I'm 90% certain they were on the bottom to bolts. Can someone confirm this? Also, could the linkage got tweaked causing the breaks to be applied all times? Or lastly, could the booster have gone bad? If so, are all boosters from 78-79 the same(2wd vs 4wd) and are any other years the same? I appreciate any help I can get!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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The brake pads are supposed gently rub the rotor.

Sometimes crimped brake hoses cause the caliper piston not to return.

what condition are the brake hoses in ?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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Did you pull out the little tit on the valve when you bled them? Are they locking, firmly dragging, or just slightly touching pads to rotors? Jack it up and turn the wheel.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by steponit
The brake pads are supposed gently rub the rotor.

Sometimes crimped brake hoses cause the caliper piston not to return.

what condition are the brake hoses in ?
I haven't checked the hoses but I don't think that's the problem considering BOTH front wheels are dragging. Dont get me wrong, possible that both lines collapsed at the same can happen but very rare!!!!

Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
Did you pull out the little tit on the valve when you bled them? Are they locking, firmly dragging, or just slightly touching pads to rotors? Jack it up and turn the wheel.
I don't know what tit you are talking about? When I bleed the brakes, I got a very strong flow of brake fluid. They are firmly dragging. You can tell when driving it and when you park it, it smells like burning brakes and the rims are hot. Little more drag than what is expected
 
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 02:36 PM
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If you read a Chiltons or other manual, you'll see that on the front of the proportioning valve, there is a pin that looks like the head of a finishing nail. You are supposed to pull that out, and insert a 'clip' to hold it out while bleeding.It only moves about 1/4".
 
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
If you read a Chiltons or other manual, you'll see that on the front of the proportioning valve, there is a pin that looks like the head of a finishing nail. You are supposed to pull that out, and insert a 'clip' to hold it out while bleeding.It only moves about 1/4".
I did not know that! I will have to find something to hold that a bleed the brakes again. Thanks for the help. Here's the other problem though. I noticed the pedal gets very firm after driving it for awhile. I don't know if it has something to do with heat or if the master cylinder is just sticking?!?!?! Could this tit your talking about be causing this?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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