Sorry;
I know this has been asked and answered many times. I'll ask to get a few opinions before I dump a bunch of money in the wrong direction. My 2004's problem started as a rough idle, but eventually the check engine light came on. Autozone said it was a bad COP on #4. I changed it, it runs a bit better, not perfect yet. Will the check engine light clear it self? What is the computer looking at for the miss fire? The 2 wires running to the COP? I haven't changed the plugs, because I'm scared of them. I have 60,000 miles on it. Would changing all the COP's be a good or bad idea?

Thanks.....

 

You can clear the C.E.L. by either pulling the PCM fuse (passenger side fuse block). The fuse number is in your owners manual (mine is fuse #5 - 2006), or you you can pull the negative battery cable.

I'm with you on the plug change. I've got 94K miles and get a sputter at hard acceleration. The dealer told me worse case $2,500.00 if they drop a plug end in the cylinder. Do you attempt yourself (or) gamble with another person? Dealers have professional mechanics, but they are still human.

I've read many places, bad COP's will throw a code. Also, that people who changed all of them didn't correct the problem (after $450 spent).

 

I changed my COPs when I changed my plugs at 71k. I put a set of 140033 Accel coils for about $280 from Summit Racing. I have almost 99k now with good results.

 

Thanks, I'll pull the fuse or the battery connection and see if C.E.L. clears. Then maybe if I get enough nerve try the plugs. Easiest one first... Know anything about the COP's that are on Ebay for $100.00? Stay away from them?

 

Did all 8 plugs come out without issue? Did you do it yourselF?
Thanks

 

Hey Razor, you beat me to the question... :-)

 

Djack;
Will a bad plug cause an error code? Or should I be looking for electrical problems?

Thanks!

 

I've been contemplating the plug change for a good couple of months.
Here's what I have found and told by friends at work.
1) Best to do when cold with aluminum plug ends in alum. heads.
2) Break plugs 1/8 to a 1/4 turn and fill well with about a teaspoon of Kroil lube.
3) The passenger side, rear requires a special tool (not sure why)
4) If a end breaks, there is a extracor tool avail. for about $75-$80 bucks.

There a few forums in here which go in much better detail.
What I do know, it's better to do it sooner than later.

 

You don't need a special tool unless you break one. Then you need the Lisle tool. To make it easier to get to the #4 Cylinder, remove the PCM and PCM bracket. It makes getting to the back plug so much easier.

See this post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-insanity.html

 

Bridge;
Thanks for the link. I have alarms cleared and pulled each cable on the COP's. They all act like they are working. But while I was doing that I noticed a loose wire. Its a Red wire with a black jacket coming from the back of the engine. The end is flat and looks like it has a lens in it. What is it and were does it go?

 

Is your rig 2wd or 4wd?

 

Its a 2WD

Thanks!

 

The wire you speak of is used on the 4wd models. Its a vacuum line that provides the vacuum needed by the IWE system. They just leave it laying there on the 2wd models.

 

Thanks Bridge;
I went through my Haynes and couldn't find it.