Okay from the beginning I have a 1990 F350 crew cab 2wd dually idi 7.3
I bought this truck for a deal from family (1st mistake) I put 2 batteries,tach sensor, glow plug controller, complete PM, lift pump, ignition, ignition module, fuel line return kit, fuel lines, and glow plugs......I think that is it. Anyway it has been running fine since I put the lift pump on a few weeks ago. It cut off on me yesterday with a half tank and then after priming(it had fuel at schrader valve) it fired up could not find culpret so I changed the fuel filter to be safe(filling it up all the way).So today I got up to go hunting and topped the tank off and when slam full the guage only read 3/4 which has been working fine, about 4 miles later I noticed a stutter and it got worse so I made 4 more miles with severe stuttering and when pulled into parking lot it stalled out and got the tow truck.By the way rear tank is gunked up so only front tank and it is broken off at 1/4 tank. Please help I sold a GREAT 150 to buy this and don't have the money for this pit.

 

sounds like front tank is bad to, what was in filter when changed it? could also be the tank selector valve going bad.

 

Drop your fuel tanks and clean them, fix the broken pickups while you're at it - it only takes a few hours and two pieces of 3/8" fuel hose and some clamps. You can also see what the deal is with your sending units at that time, maybe they're worn and need replacement - being a '90 truck you can use sending units off many gas-powered EFI trucks.

There is also the possibility that your tank selector valve is failing, to rule that out simply bypass it by connecting the front tank (or rear, after you clean it good) to the lines in front of the TSV with pieces of 3/8" and 5/16" rubber hose.

 

okay update I am leaking at the fuel heater connection on top of filter housing, not a problem, will fix in a few days and fix front tank at same time. SElector valve is already bypassed for the front tank

 

That particular leak is on the pressure side of the lift pump, so unless it's spraying like a fountain then your truck should be running just fine even tho she leaks - mine was like that two winters ago, decided to start leaking like a sieve on a particularly cold and snowy day - no IHC dealership anywhere near me, had to use the truck for work but didn't feel like having my entire engine bay covered in diesel fuel, so I called in late and took the filter head apart and replaced the offending o-ring with a spare one for the injectors - she didn't wanna go back together, but after some persuasion she did, ain't leaked a drop ever since.

 

Well from my knowledge any fuel leak equals air intrusion, especially at a higher RPM, when fuel is flowing thru at a faster rate. it idles great but on the morning in question she ran fine until 55- 65 mph. right now i fire it up idles great, then when you rev it to 2k you can feel it stutter a bit. cut her off fuel on top of housing subsides. I will attempt to change o-rings throughout housing when I get back from out of area this week .I will update her status then.

 

Uhm, no. If you were to suck air in from a leak on the pressure side of the pump, then your lift pump was not supplying enough fuel and your IP was pulling vacuum in the system. Normally the lift pump moves about three times the amount of fuel the engine can use even at WOT, so while the engine is running you will have fuel coming out but no air going in. Again, this is on the pressure side of the lift pump, if you get a leak on its suction side (basically anywhere between the tanks and the lift pump) she will suck air in through there and may stall on you. Of course once you shut her off then she'll suck air in regardless of where the leak is, unless you're like me and have no return line at your filter head no more - this is actually what saved me when my fuel heater connector decided to become a fuel fountain, the leak was at the heighest point of the system and the filter had nowhere to drain off to so it stayed full.

By the way, where exactly is your leak - between the plastic connector body and the aluminum filter head, or between the metal tab inside the connector and the plastic body around it? Those are two different leaks, cause by two different o-rings...

 

I haven't tore into it yet but changing the o-rings is not a big deal, but the running problem is,the lift pump is about a month and a half old
but I would go far as to believe the guage is correct , I was using a high flow pump and I thought she wouldn't take any more but the amount I put in was about right.Anyway there are no leaks from the IP to the motor all sealed up tight, it has all of the sudden started sputtering and leak appeared when stuttering appeared, I was checking it over after changed fuel filter and there were no leaks the other day...........Best I can do now without throwing parts at it is change all o-rings in housing and drop front tank and inspect repair accordingly ............
to tell you the truth I want to fix it free from problems and sell it, this is overkill for what I need.

 

Actually these repairs are nothing uncommon for an old truck, it's just the nature of the beast, rubber deteriorates with age and heat - just be thankful it ain't no gas-powered truck with leaky injectors, those can result in a rather crispy engine in a hurry! Also, think about, yes these repairs are somewhat annoying, but for the most part they're easy to do yourself and they don't cost you an arm and a leg either, and when you're done the truck will be good for another 10 years or so. At least that's how I see it, and do work on my truck accordingly - so far I have replaced all steering components (sans gear box) and added a PSD damper for stability, converted her to hydroboost brakes for better stopping power, built strong rear leaf springs to handle heavy trailers, built a massive front bumper to handle heavy deer, replaced both fuel tanks and installed a 33-gal rear tank for longer range per refuel, modified my fuel fill necks so I can use the big-rig pumps at the truck stops, first welded the open rear diff the factory cursed me with and later replaced it with a limited-slip so I can actually go through muddy fields without getting stuck, opened the transmission at least three times to install a shift kit and then adjust it to my liking, replaced transmission cooling lines and all engine rubber hoses, added a second fuel filter for a two-stage filtration, installed a better sound setup cause I drive for hours and hours on end, put in a CB with external speaker and twin antennas cause Channel 19 is so useful and often amusing, did a whole bunch of wiring to add more lights and automate some things and give me manual control over others, got her six brandy-new tires, and I'm currently working on an on-board air system while at the same time repairing rust on the cab that messes up with its structural integrity, and when I'm done with those I'll be working on a way to install a big-truck directional switch in place if the POS the factory gave us. I'm sure I've missed something, the list is just too long to remember everything... Of these some have been routine maintenance and upgrades while at it, but many are just cause I wanted certain features that are not offered from the factory but make the truck quite a bit more useful to me, and arguably safer and more reliable too. If I'm to buy a truck like that someone else built, I'm sure I'll have to pay quite a decent price for it, which goes against the "built, not bought" mindset that runs in the family (as much as I actually hate my family, lol)...