96 no start
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From: Washington County, Penna
96 no start
Ok guys I must say hello as I am new to the diesel world.. Got a 96 f250 7.3 turbo... Dual tanks.. Earlier was idling and felt it stutter, rear tank was low, sitting at a angle figure it was trying to suck air.. So I flip to front tank (which is 3/4 full) fresh fuel, only 5 or so days old... And it catches itself... Well go to jump on highway and doesn't wanna run smooth until start a higher spool, then after 5 miles won't even run smooth at high rpms, pull off highway and slowing down engine stalls.. Figure fuel filter is choking out, throw fuel filter in (had 1 cause was gonna change tomorrow)... And... Won't start... Guess my question is it ran fine for weeks until then... Do y'all think I just caught a air pocket or do you think I have bigger issues, also do these trucks have in tank pumps or just rely on pump near filter housing.. As said all ran good until I ran low in rear tank and switched after feeling stutter... And please be gentle with abbreviations and locations.. The 7.3 is a whole new beast to me ... If you made it this far I thank you in advance
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
Likes: 197
From: AZ
Try changing the CPS (crankcase position sensor), it could be that. I might also be burned under valve cover plugs, if the CPS doesn't do it then pull each plug on the heads, two on each side, and look in both sides of the plugs for burned pins. There aren't fuel tank pumps, its a mechanically pump on top of the motor.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 18,287
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From: Sheridan / Gilchrist
Disclaimer - First let me say I am not a diesel mechanic. They passed a law making it a felony for me to touch a wrench when within 5 miles of my Ford Diesel.
On mine, I had problems with cool weather starts at altitude and some rough - smoky idling. Thought it might have something to do with the high altitude I was at. After warm up and when driving, I never had any sputtering or stuttering problems. Nor did I have those problems at home (196') in temps above 50.
A couple of months after I first noticed the above, I was driving along, back a sea level and all seemed happy when all of a sudden it just quit. There was no starting her back up and it resulted in a tow.
Turned out to be a burned UVCWH, (Under Valve Cover Wiring Harness), on one side and some not so good glow plugs. The killer that actually caused the tow was a bad CPS.
On mine, I had problems with cool weather starts at altitude and some rough - smoky idling. Thought it might have something to do with the high altitude I was at. After warm up and when driving, I never had any sputtering or stuttering problems. Nor did I have those problems at home (196') in temps above 50.
A couple of months after I first noticed the above, I was driving along, back a sea level and all seemed happy when all of a sudden it just quit. There was no starting her back up and it resulted in a tow.
Turned out to be a burned UVCWH, (Under Valve Cover Wiring Harness), on one side and some not so good glow plugs. The killer that actually caused the tow was a bad CPS.
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Senior User
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From: Washington County, Penna
Ok update time... found the o-ring on the filter leaking, replaced it with a old o-ring (not best idea but worked)... crank it and getting whit smoke,definitely fuel... Ok so it cranks no start.. got wait to start light working properly... sounds to crank at good speed but tach on shows roughly 100rpm during crank,,, I'm getting ready to run to parts store and grab a new cps.. figure can't hurt to try, they ain't expensive,but was wanting to see if anyone else had any other ideas thanks to the update here.. once I get cps in I will update either way.. thanks in advance again
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From: Washington County, Penna
Ok chime back in, replaced cps and didn't help (I'm sure it didn't hurt either considering the old one practically fell out when I unbolted it)... but going by chart I should either plug in heater or check/charge batteries.... Ok I will go with pull batteries and let em charge... See what happens from there...cause I am gonna guess the cps is what tells the tach the rpms? If so I got same reading from old and new sensors..just are on the low side... also the solenoid beside the fuel bowl, what is it for? I tested it and get power both sides when key on but after a minute(give or take, didn't time it) it switches off... I can't give a true voltage read on anything.. the dmm I have must b shot cause I read 3 volts at each battery, 3 at relay.. but if I go to a car that will start right up that battery has 3.1 volts lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,098
Likes: 1,504
From: western SD
Hopefully you purchased a Motorcraft or International CPS. Parts store ones have been known to be bad out of the box.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Washington County, Penna
Ok final update, got it running... Was 2 bad batteries.. (Unfortunately) bought 2 new ones and fired right up...strangely just decided to act up when I pulled a air pocket.. Anyways thanks to y'all and the stickys I've learned a lot
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From: Washington County, Penna
Not a problem, I someone else may see this and realize its a simple (not exactly cheap lol) fix for theirs and saves them half of their weekend then it's all worth the headache in the long run lol
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