a/c & heat
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 190
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a/c & heat
Two problems:
I had trouble with my '90 F150 351 w/ E4OD overheating. Replaced thermostat, ECT, fan clutch, etc, and finally when I had the radiator cleaned out that did the trick. Now it's hard to get warm air in the winter. The temp gauge runs right on the N on normal or lower (I'm not sure what this translates to in temperature). It has a 195 thermostat. I replaced the heater core a few years back. Is it possible that the panel that moves when you slide the cold/warm **** over isn't moving right? or is my truck just running too cold. My wifes grand cherokee gets up to 195 and stays there and the air will almost scald you coming out of the vents. I'm not asking for that, but I'm freezing my a** off!
Second problem: I've retrofitted my A/C for R134A and am using a variable orifice tube. The entire system is brand new except for the original condenser. head pressure is good, but i think there might be some restriction in the condenser. is it a good idea to replace it after all these years? is there any way to keep the truck from overheating when idling with the a/c on?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I had trouble with my '90 F150 351 w/ E4OD overheating. Replaced thermostat, ECT, fan clutch, etc, and finally when I had the radiator cleaned out that did the trick. Now it's hard to get warm air in the winter. The temp gauge runs right on the N on normal or lower (I'm not sure what this translates to in temperature). It has a 195 thermostat. I replaced the heater core a few years back. Is it possible that the panel that moves when you slide the cold/warm **** over isn't moving right? or is my truck just running too cold. My wifes grand cherokee gets up to 195 and stays there and the air will almost scald you coming out of the vents. I'm not asking for that, but I'm freezing my a** off!
Second problem: I've retrofitted my A/C for R134A and am using a variable orifice tube. The entire system is brand new except for the original condenser. head pressure is good, but i think there might be some restriction in the condenser. is it a good idea to replace it after all these years? is there any way to keep the truck from overheating when idling with the a/c on?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
Likes: 2,032
From: North Texas
a/c & heat
With you heater, it sounds like that door to the core isn't opening. Since you gauge is on N, is your motor warm?
On the AC, I rebuilt my entire system minus the Condenser last summer. I changed the: low pressure line, high pressure line, liquid line, compressor, and evaperator core. Took about a day but saved $100's! About $400. I had it flushed and recharged by pros. I don't mess with AC or Brakes on vehicles.
In the evap core there is a Fixed Oriface tube (it is a tiny filter), if that is new in your truck there should be no problem there. If you didn't replace that, they get dirty. If it is still your OE evap core and orifce tube, chances are that the oriface tube isn't gonna come out. I replaced my evap core b/c of that.
Did you happen to flush you AC system when you rebuilt it? That may be causing your problem is there is trash in your system.
If you are overheating when the AC is on, you fan clutch isn't working. I know this from experience. They last about 75-100Kmiles only. You can tell if it needs replacing by trying to spin it. If it spins more than 1 full turn, replace it. Hayden sells HD use ones with AC for $60 with a life time warranty.
On the AC, I rebuilt my entire system minus the Condenser last summer. I changed the: low pressure line, high pressure line, liquid line, compressor, and evaperator core. Took about a day but saved $100's! About $400. I had it flushed and recharged by pros. I don't mess with AC or Brakes on vehicles.
In the evap core there is a Fixed Oriface tube (it is a tiny filter), if that is new in your truck there should be no problem there. If you didn't replace that, they get dirty. If it is still your OE evap core and orifce tube, chances are that the oriface tube isn't gonna come out. I replaced my evap core b/c of that.
Did you happen to flush you AC system when you rebuilt it? That may be causing your problem is there is trash in your system.
If you are overheating when the AC is on, you fan clutch isn't working. I know this from experience. They last about 75-100Kmiles only. You can tell if it needs replacing by trying to spin it. If it spins more than 1 full turn, replace it. Hayden sells HD use ones with AC for $60 with a life time warranty.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2002
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a/c & heat
Everything was replaced (lines, evap core, orifice, compressor, dryer). Truck doesn't overheat with A/C on unless you let it idle for a while. I can hear the fan clutch working going down the road in the heat. It was replaced a couple of years ago (I bought the new one from FORD, parts stores were always lower quality). Should the fan clutch work at idle speed?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
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From: North Texas
a/c & heat
I forgot about that dryer, any time you open the AC system you are suppoed to change the dryer.
It was probably flushed then. If they got that oriface out then your evap core should be okay, it not I would swap that out. Heck if the dealer did it, it should be under warranty right?
The clutch should defently (sp?) be working at idle or really low speeds. If not it may be bad. That is where it is designed to operate, not cruising down the freeway.
It was probably flushed then. If they got that oriface out then your evap core should be okay, it not I would swap that out. Heck if the dealer did it, it should be under warranty right?
The clutch should defently (sp?) be working at idle or really low speeds. If not it may be bad. That is where it is designed to operate, not cruising down the freeway.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2002
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a/c & heat
hmm....never knew that about the fan clutch. maybe that is the problem. where do i get one that really works like it is supposed to. i've put at least 3 on it, the last from the dealership, and i don't think any of them have worked like you say they should
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
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From: North Texas
a/c & heat
See from what I understand, when going over 35mph, the AC condensor and radiator are having enough air passing over them to remain cool.
A clutched fan is for really slow speed driving and idling in the heat. When it locks it pulls a ton of air through the condensor and radiator to prevent overheating.
I purchased mine from O'Reilly in Houston, TX. It was a HD one by Hayden for AC, towing, etc. It works really well now. It was $55-65 if I remember with a lifetime guarantee on it.
If that doesn't fix it, maybe drop down to a 180* thermo too.
A clutched fan is for really slow speed driving and idling in the heat. When it locks it pulls a ton of air through the condensor and radiator to prevent overheating.
I purchased mine from O'Reilly in Houston, TX. It was a HD one by Hayden for AC, towing, etc. It works really well now. It was $55-65 if I remember with a lifetime guarantee on it.
If that doesn't fix it, maybe drop down to a 180* thermo too.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
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From: Baltimore
a/c & heat
Regarding your lack of heat... sounds like initially, the radiator was clogged, if so, the heater core could be also be clogged which would result in water not circulating through the core. Suggest backflushing the core and see what comes out..
Mike
Mike
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: North Texas
a/c & heat
You may need to burp your cooling system if you can hear coolant going into your heater core. If your heater core is bad, they are cheap about $25 and supposedly really easy to change on our trucks.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Central Texas
a/c & heat
you can be sure the heater core is too. Just been down this road on a 93. I'd replace it, $16-$25 from Oreilly's. It's not a bad job either should take 1 to 1 1/2 hours. On a cold day here in the south 23-25 degrees the temp guage never gets over the "o" in the normal range