Long Crank Time
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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Long Crank Time
Don't want to beat a dead subject 
but my 6.0 2005 just started this. In the mornings or when hot displaying 3-5 second crank times. Was cranking a few days ago within 1 sec or so. Seen the post about STC problems, also seen on another site some 05' trucks have 04' motors which do not have STC attached to the HPOP. I'm going to look and see if I have the aluminum cover or steel. I have a small oil leak on the top of the engine coming from a rubber hose that connects to a black rectangle black box. Located right beneath the air duct that flows in to the turbo. Could this be causing me problems? While turning the key over the oil gauge on the dash doesn't respond until around 2 seconds after the truck fires. Had some injector stiction going on so I did the T6 change. Was doing great until NOW!!
2005 F250-crew cab- 6.0-136K
35" nitto's-MBRP 4" turbo back-cat delete-hot flash 58V FICM-new batteries
T6 Synthetic with Motorcraft filter-fresh oil change-fresh fuel filter change
but my 6.0 2005 just started this. In the mornings or when hot displaying 3-5 second crank times. Was cranking a few days ago within 1 sec or so. Seen the post about STC problems, also seen on another site some 05' trucks have 04' motors which do not have STC attached to the HPOP. I'm going to look and see if I have the aluminum cover or steel. I have a small oil leak on the top of the engine coming from a rubber hose that connects to a black rectangle black box. Located right beneath the air duct that flows in to the turbo. Could this be causing me problems? While turning the key over the oil gauge on the dash doesn't respond until around 2 seconds after the truck fires. Had some injector stiction going on so I did the T6 change. Was doing great until NOW!!2005 F250-crew cab- 6.0-136K
35" nitto's-MBRP 4" turbo back-cat delete-hot flash 58V FICM-new batteries
T6 Synthetic with Motorcraft filter-fresh oil change-fresh fuel filter change
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 64
Likes: 2
same here, i just put a new number 5 injector in, and now in the morning it takes 2 or 3 cycles of cranking to get it going. but when its warm, it starts up ok. My old 1985 f250 with a 6.9l starts in 1 second, but this 6.0l, even when its running good, takes a few seconds to start. it will interesting to find a fix for this
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Joined: Jul 2010
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Could be the STC, bad dummy rail plugs or possibly a stuck check valve in the oil filter housing allowing the oil to drain back into the pan. The system would then have to build the oil pressure again before it could start. That box is part of the crankcase ventilation, it would not cause this problem. Replace the two orings on that hose and it would stop your oil leak though.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
On the drivers side valve cover the hose that runs from the square plastic box to the intake hose connected to the turbo. That will NOT cause long crank times. It could be the FICM going south OR a leak in the high pressure oil system. Also, have you had your truck reflashed recently?
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No, on the drivers side there is a black box on the valve cover with a tube that goes into the air intake duct. There is an oring on both ends of that tube.
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Yeah the hose with the black box has excessive oil build up! looks like a leak but i haven't torn into it yet. It has the whole valve cover wet with oil. I assume its leaking slowly. It is cranking fine after you drive it, you can shut it off for 2-3 hrs and it will fire right. Only after it sits over night it turns over and over then fires. I will check the hose and box to see what all I can find wrong with it. You may be on to something here because the truck was cranking fine before the synthetic oil change now I notice more oil coming from that box. The oil is now thinner so maybe seeping out causing low oil pressure on start up.
My FICM I replaced 3 months or so ago and sent it to SWAMPS to have them test it, it came back fine. Its a 58v hot flash I bought from them.
My FICM I replaced 3 months or so ago and sent it to SWAMPS to have them test it, it came back fine. Its a 58v hot flash I bought from them.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
that tube is the pcv tube. will not doing anything but set egr based codes, and blow oil all over that side.
as stated check the ficm, check for a high pressure oil leak, check batteries
as stated check the ficm, check for a high pressure oil leak, check batteries
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I just put two new batteries in a few weeks ago, the week after is when I was having bad bucking/jerking, truck running very rough at start ups. I sent the FICM to have it checked (checked out ok), I will do the procedure to check it myself though. I then did the oil change to the T6 fixed the bucking/jerking problems.
When the truck was bucking/jerking I put it in a local diesel shop and they said it was showing low voltage on the balance test. They kept saying there was something wrong with the FICM but Swamps said no it tested good. I question that as well though being I bought it from them and its still under warranty!
Thats good to know though that the piece that is leaking won't cause problems (except a mess).
If I take it to the Ford dealer and have them watch the ICP on the PC while testing will it show voltage problems that would throw flags at the HPOP having problems?
When the truck was bucking/jerking I put it in a local diesel shop and they said it was showing low voltage on the balance test. They kept saying there was something wrong with the FICM but Swamps said no it tested good. I question that as well though being I bought it from them and its still under warranty!
Thats good to know though that the piece that is leaking won't cause problems (except a mess).
If I take it to the Ford dealer and have them watch the ICP on the PC while testing will it show voltage problems that would throw flags at the HPOP having problems?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
when going to the dealer it is best to just explain exactly what your issues is. the diag time will be the same either way. let the tech figure it out.
you could have pump issues as well but there is more to look at then just icp to get to that point. To daig a pump concern it get byond the standard diag as some disassmebly of the engine can/maybe involved.
you could have pump issues as well but there is more to look at then just icp to get to that point. To daig a pump concern it get byond the standard diag as some disassmebly of the engine can/maybe involved.
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I called the dealership on Thursday and explained the situation. They told me if no codes were thrown there wasn't much they could tell me. It seems like they should be equipped to do more in a case like this.
Last year i was having bad stalling problems and they had it three times but no fix! I read the back pressure sensor so unplugged it until i bought a new one and it fixed my problem. I just wonder replacing the STC fitting would fix it. I guess the only way to know is change it out. Does anyone know the $ of the dealer changing it out?
Still probably cheaper for me to do. I did a oil/egr cooler change on my dads 6.0 last year and it wasn't that bad.
Last year i was having bad stalling problems and they had it three times but no fix! I read the back pressure sensor so unplugged it until i bought a new one and it fixed my problem. I just wonder replacing the STC fitting would fix it. I guess the only way to know is change it out. Does anyone know the $ of the dealer changing it out?
Still probably cheaper for me to do. I did a oil/egr cooler change on my dads 6.0 last year and it wasn't that bad.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
stc fitting will run you in the $1000.00 range. I have no idea why someshops tell people that before they even look at it. We can do alot most of the time. sometimes if its not "really" broke at the time we are looking at it then we cant but know way to know unless we try.
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I understand that for sure. I think from the post I have seen that this little fitting is the root to all evil concerning long crank times! I didn't pull the turbo when I did the oil/egr cooler change so not real sure of how to get it off. I basically just kept taking bolts loose until everything was out of the way when doing this. does this work the same if i pull the turbo? I read it to be "very careful" not to drop anything though into the engine.
Is this a job you think I could do or will it require special tools?
Is this a job you think I could do or will it require special tools?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
no special tools needed. If you got the intake off to replace the oil cooler with out removing the turbo you have done what I and many other have not found a way to do with out cutting the intake up anyway.
but that said lot of people do it on there own I dont find it that bad myself.
as far as the stc fitting be the root of all evil I think not. we see them but no more or less then anything else. most common time to suspect the stc fitting would be a concern of no start or very long crank when hot.
but that said lot of people do it on there own I dont find it that bad myself.
as far as the stc fitting be the root of all evil I think not. we see them but no more or less then anything else. most common time to suspect the stc fitting would be a concern of no start or very long crank when hot.