brake light switch question
One of the problems I encountered was the brake switch, it would not fit on the new rod that bolted to the brake pedal. The new one was too wide and just too big for the switch to fit around it the way it was on the original set up.
So I just ran the 2 wires out the firewall and put a pressure switch on the master cylinder. Now the brake lights do not work. They worked fine before. Basically all it needs to do is complete the circuit right? I touched the 2 wires together and the brake lights still did not come on. What am I doing wrong?
Maybe I should go back to the way it was, is there another switch that will fit the new set up?
Thanks,
Wade
ok the pressure switch you used what is made to be used for a brake light switch for your set up ie did it come off of or supposed to go on to YOUR brake booster pedal combo?
secondly actually all that is needed for your brake switch to do is kill an always hot connection just like your door switches. they don't turn on your brake lights. so to speak they turn them off.
thirdly if you had a working brake switch already instead of using the new system just go back to the old system. if you haven't uped your voltage/ wattage/ current what ever then the old switch is just the ticket to my eyes since all the wires are the same.
*note please don't take any capitalized letters as yelling just stressing the word*
hope it helps and if i am wrong please correct me especially if i misread your post.
From the schematic, it should be as simple as closing the contacts to turn the brake lamps on. The pressure switch idea should work, as long as it's normally open, and closes with pressure.
You are aware that you need to have the ignition on for the brake lights to work, right? The circuit goes through the turn signal switch.
With the switch on and there is no power to one of the wires, I would start looking at a blown fuse next.
With everything plugged in do you have turn signals on the rear?
Another thing, you may have to use a 73-79 switch under the dash on the pedal arm to light the lamps. Who cares where it is as long as the lights work, right?
John
As Jo Wilker suggests I would get a Brake light switch from a 1968-1979 truck and put it on. You will have to find a way of putting a bracket on the pedal to activate the switch though.
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.67-72 brake pedal assemblies were all the same it wasn't until 73+ that they changed right?
well if that is the case why not just hit a junkyard or look for some one doing a manual to auto or auto to manual and snake their brake pedal assemby. then you would have one with off the shelf replacement parts instead of trying to rig
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67-72 brake pedal assemblies can be swaped between the years just by removing and installing no modification needed right?
i hope that clears up the statement.
1. '73-'79 pedal pivot brackets will NOT bolt up into a '67-'72 truck without major dash modifications.
2. '73-'79 pedals will not easily fit the '67-'72 pedal pivot bracket.
Some grinding can be done to make the the '73-'77 pieces fit, but the '78-'79 pedals will just plain not work.
3. (Some) '78-'79 power brake boosters will NOT fit '67-'72 trucks. The '73-'77 versions will fit just fine.
4. '78-'79 power brake boosters will only fit '73-'77 trucks if the '73-'77 brake pedal is also used.
5. 1967 trucks use a one-year-only pivot bracket and booster combination.
So...here's the final verdict for '67 owners. If you're wanting to install a power booster on your '67, here are your options:
1) Use the '67 Bendix-style brake booster with your '67 pedal assembly bracket; or
2) Swap a '68-'72 pedal pivot bracket into your '67, and then use a '68-'77 brake booster; or
3) Drop your '67 brake pedal out and weld a 1" extension tab onto the rear (towards the driver) edge of the pedal, drill a hole for the booster rod, and then go ahead use the '68-'77 booster.
...
If I would have read that first before starting my project, I would have done option 2. Anyway, been busy all day, time to go out and fiddle with the ole truck now.
1. '73-'79 pedal pivot brackets will NOT bolt up into a '67-'72 truck without major dash modifications.
2. '73-'79 pedals will not easily fit the '67-'72 pedal pivot bracket.
Some grinding can be done to make the the '73-'77 pieces fit, but the '78-'79 pedals will just plain not work.
3. (Some) '78-'79 power brake boosters will NOT fit '67-'72 trucks. The '73-'77 versions will fit just fine.
4. '78-'79 power brake boosters will only fit '73-'77 trucks if the '73-'77 brake pedal is also used.
5. 1967 trucks use a one-year-only pivot bracket and booster combination.
So...here's the final verdict for '67 owners. If you're wanting to install a power booster on your '67, here are your options:
1) Use the '67 Bendix-style brake booster with your '67 pedal assembly bracket; or
2) Swap a '68-'72 pedal pivot bracket into your '67, and then use a '68-'77 brake booster; or
3) Drop your '67 brake pedal out and weld a 1" extension tab onto the rear (towards the driver) edge of the pedal, drill a hole for the booster rod, and then go ahead use the '68-'77 booster.
...
If I would have read that first before starting my project, I would have done option 2. Anyway, been busy all day, time to go out and fiddle with the ole truck now.
I purchased a donor truck, sold parts that I didn't use for more than my donor cost. You will end up with power disc brakes and power steering for cheep.
guluk
John

You are grown and surely can run all over the web and get confusing info, but this is the old Ford Truck Mother Church, the truth here will keep you freed up.
Some of what you posted in this post is crap.
John
If I would have known that what they sold me was going to be a big pain in the *ss to get set up I would have bought parts at a junk yard from a '68.
But hey live and learn. I have absolutely no knowledge of these old trucks and no knowledge of power brake systems. So sorry if I offended you with my pathetic posts and my sheer ignorance. But no need to be rude.
Rick started selling his brake setup for the mid 50s trucks 25 years ago. While it works the power disc is a better.
You don't have to bring a donor home, but you will need some place to work. With some planning you could have a donor completely stripped and hauled away in a couple weeks. Get everything ready to go in your truck and have it complete in a couple weeks.
You have to get "I can't" out of the way. I can't never did anything.
We have helped thousands of truck owners here with their trucks, we can help you to, if you listen.
John
*then take some tools and head out to the junk yard that has your 68-72 ford trucks in it spend some time standing on your head under the dash and pull out your newbrake pedal assembly. if you take your time on it then you will see / know how it goes into yours. at least this is option 1 and it makes the most sense.




