Anybody? ^^^^

 

I'm trying to narrow this down. So we already know that I had the same issue last year, a new ICP sensor and it ran fine till yesterday.

What other things may cause the truck to do those same things? If the cam sensor was bad it wouldn't even start, which it does. Is that right? I run injector cleaner regularly enough so I'm assuming that those are clean. And this problem was instant, not progressively worsening.

 

Riffraff Diesel: Motorcraft ICP Sensor

That is what I replaced last fall. Sorry, cannot insert pics from the work puter.

 

Wow

 

Mine was bad; truck would start and run fine, then out of nowhere, it would skip/cutout real bad for a second or two then catch again. Last time it did this four times during a driving cycle. BTS, and others recommended changing CPS (I had the original black one in) to another new black one I purchased back in 2003. Runs even better now! It's amazing how these electronic sensors affect the operation of our 7.3's.

 

I have a grey one now. Don't even think that the black ones are around anymore. Thanks for the tip.

 

Normally I prefer Motorcraft quality on most items but I haven't had much luck with their ICP sensors. Mine worked, but leaked so I replaced it with International's part. It's been 10 months and so far so good, but time will tell the real story. The International part was about the same price as the dealer part ($180) so it's not a cheap fix.

Here is how the system works. The HPOP makes a ton of pressure, all the time. It's directly driven off the engine so the faster the engine spins, the more pressure it makes. The IPR (Injector Pressure Regulator) valve works by bleeding off excess pressure to control how much pressure is provided to the injectors. If the IPR is closed, then it blocks the drain and sends all the oil to the injectors. As it opens, it allows some of the oil to drain back to the oil pan. Open all the way means the injectors don't get very much oil pressure, etc.

The IPR receives it's instructions from the PCM based on the information the PCM receives from the ICP sensor. So, if the ICP sensor reports 500 psi and the PCM wants higher pressure, then it commands the IPR to close off the bleed orifice and direct more pressure to the injectors. The PCM then checks back with the ICP and determines if pressure has increased. If not, then more IPR duty cycle % is requested and so on. If the IPR duty cycle is high 40-60% and ICP is low (less than 600 psi) then the IPR isn't working correctly.

So, you might want to try and determine if the ICP sensor is bad before you buy another one. If it's leaking oil, that would be a sign it's failed or failing but that isn't necessarily the case. I have seen leaking ICP sensors that still work fine. If you unplug the sensor and it runs better, then that usually means the sensor is providing false data and making the truck run poorly. If your sensor isn't leaking any oil then plug it back in and connect the scanner and check Injector Control Pressure with the key on and engine off (KOEO). Should be 0 psi. If you have any other reading then replace the ICP. Also with KOEO, the IPR duty cycle should be around 14% as that is the position it holds when it's ready to start.

Next, with the engine running your Injector Control Pressure should be around 500 psi with IPR duty cycle around 11%. An IPR duty cycle of 14% should yield IC pressure of 600 psi or so on a stock engine. If you are seeing IPR duty cycles higher than 20% with IC pressure of 500 psi then your IPR is not operating properly. A quick test drive will confirm. If you see IPR duty cycle over 60% at WOT under load then clean or replace the IPR.

If all checks good, then I'd look at fuel pressure next. The scan tool can't read fuel pressure so you'll need a gauge for that.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
Here is what the International ICP looks like in case you are curious.

 

Riffraff has the black ones still. I purchased a couple and will install as soon as they arrive and see if they make any difference.

 

Greg,

How did you go about getting the International part? Can I grab that from any parts store or still dealer only item?

Thanks

 

Yeah, I did see that. I will be finding out what is wrong for sure tonight and seeing if I can get stuff ordered ASAP. The dealer also said that I will most likely get each part warrantied since they are just a year old.

 

We just plugged in the scanner. The only code that we are getting is for a Engine Coolant Temp sensor. It's reading at -40°f. What problems would that create? We checked the wires and they are getting signal so we are assuming that the water temp sensor is bad.

Any takes on this?

 

I just went down the street to our local International dealership here in the Phoenix area. I am sure it's a dealer only item. The replacement part has the exact same part number as my original but the replacement part was slightly different at the base. If you don't have a dealership where you are you might be able to order these things online. Not too sure about that though...

 

If your truck is an automatic trans, then ignore that reading. Scanners don't read the engine coolant temp.

What is your IC pressure with KOEO?

 

The black CPS' are still around. I believe Clay at Riffraff Diesel is selling them for $48.13.

See them here: Riffraff Diesel: International "Black" CPS - Original

 

I have no clue on how to read a scanner. That is the only code we got. Something is obviously wrong. I'm about ready to run the %$#@*! off a cliff.

There are two units that pop up:
a switch - Duralast/Temperature Switch (TU220) | Temperature Switch | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders F 7.3L Turbo Diesel | AutoZone.com

and a sender - Duralast/Engine Temperature Sensor (SU284) | Engine Temperature Sensor | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders F 7.3L Turbo Diesel | AutoZone.com

The sender is easy to find and from what I can find, the switch sends a signal to my gauge, the sender sends a signal to my EMS. At least from what I have found on alldata.com