Cleansing the crankcase
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Cleansing the crankcase
Fellas, so K1 kerosene has been the recommended cleansing agent to get all of the coolant out of the crankcase since my intake valley pan gasket debaucle. I have drained everything and am going to start fresh. The coolant is a no brainer, doesnt need cleaning, all is well. With the crankcase, can i just do a ATF "flush" or similar motor oil flush and run some cheap oil through it for a day or two to "clean" everything? My thinking.....cant find K1 kerosene or similar anywhere near me and motor oil flush additives are cheap as hell, like ATF. Thoughts? I am going to button it up this afternoon and be on the road hopefully tomorrow. Should i let the sillycone set for the full 24hrs or ?
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
thats what i was thinking, just maybe adding some engine flush or atf and running it around a bit, then letting it all out. And to finish it all up, just change it at around 750 miles. Then go back to the higher grade oil or better oil.
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From: Elk City, OK
you can just run oil and a gallon of diesel in there. drive it around or let it idle for about 20 minutes then drain it. leave the drain plug out, leave the filler cap off and let it sit for about 24 hours to dry everything out real well and you'll be fine.
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From: Elk City, OK
but nothing will REALLY clean like synthetic oil. running that a whole oil change will remove stuff you never thought possible. they say you cant go back to regular oil after you run synthetic but you can. just gotta flush all the synthetic outta the system.
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
once i get it back to normal, i might venture over to synthetic. You know this whole thing with the intake valley pan gasket makes a lot of sense now, right after i installed the engine, it was good, no leaks, nothing. Then i hauled a crap ton of weight in a 24ft stock trailer and it got a bit hot. Right up there by the front of the intake manifold to the right of the coolant temp sensor, i saw a bubble of green, seemed to do about a drop or so a day, very small leak. Didnt worry too much about it and it went away. Well right after that the oil started coming out, guess i blew the seal on the intake valley pan. either way, i should have known about the coolant under there, ah well. like i always say with these trucks, live and learn.
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From: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Just out of curiosity, youre in Canada wreckinball? Crappy Tire sells K1 and its 20$ for 20 litres...
But to that token, diesel is about 1$/L so if that works then there's no reason to buy kersosene. I went through that with my diesel/kerosene heater, they're the same price but diesel is easier to buy!
But to that token, diesel is about 1$/L so if that works then there's no reason to buy kersosene. I went through that with my diesel/kerosene heater, they're the same price but diesel is easier to buy!
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
yeah i saw it there but its more than 20, dont remember the exact but being on Vancouver Island makes for more taxes and duties etc. lol. Im just going to flush it well with some diesel or atf and run it for about 20 or 30 mins, then do the drain out. Then fill and run that batch of oil for about 500 miles. And finally run it on my preferred oil. I think the recommendation of K1 was for the thinner than diesel nature.
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From: Elk City, OK
where do you get it from? It's 10 for a little bottle here. Like 30 for a gallon. reither your gettin a killer deal on it OR gettin boned for diesel
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Holy crap, when i removed the IP housing, wow was that a scary situation. What is the deal with the little nub on the IP gear? Almost knocked it off the cam gear haha. Got it all resealed and tonight is the big finish. Funny thing is that the old silicone that came off all the parts, it was a clear rubber silicone. Not red, or blue but a clear silicone. I think that the people that re did this set me up for failure. The ultra grey i used hopefully will be a better solution and while looking at the heads, and old valley pan gasket, i can see that there is no remaining sillycone on the rear of the old gasket or block. No friggin wonder i had all kinds of oil leaking down the back of the engine, i really thought i had a oil pressure sending unit leak like sometimes is the case but nope, i got it all figured now.
Dave Sponaugle, thanks for recommending i leave the gear meshed, i can see how it could work but why risk it. It would have made cleaning easier but it can be done meshed.
Dave Sponaugle, thanks for recommending i leave the gear meshed, i can see how it could work but why risk it. It would have made cleaning easier but it can be done meshed.
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