Can anyone help me with the original tire sizes for the 1953 F-100. I want to get back to original and switch to Bias Ply. Guy I bought it from switched it to radials and went a little bigger.

Thanks.

 

 

From the 1953 Ford Shop Manual.
Shows 15" and 16" Rims and Tires.

 

 

Great info guys! The 6.50 x 16 was an option.

 

Thanks so much guys. Great help.

 

After I got my 54 fixed up and painted in 1999 I put radials on it. It rode nice, took bumps nice but didn't look right and was a real bear to steer when parking or turning at real slow speeds like backing into my garage which I have to do at an angle.

About 5 years ago I put bias ply on the front and I was able to back, turn and steer with one hand. It made a tremendous difference. then about three years ago I gor bias ply on the rear. They have the pie crust edge to them and look real nice.

BTW, we have to see pics of your 53 and some facts about it.

 

The 15" wheel listed is a semi-drop center two part having the Firestone RHP 5.50F rim. This is a one year only wheel (different offset in '54 iirc) and will be a rare item today. Stu

 

Hello Stu,

Do you have a picture of the 15"

 

I confirmed my recall. The 1953 wheel is K-H 36877 / Ford TAAA 1007-A (or TAAA 1015-A because Ford's numbering system evolved when tubeless wheels came along). It has .620" of offset. In 1954 it was replaced by K-H 37717 / Ford TAAA 1007-B which has .250" of offset. That means it is slightly flatter than the 1953 wheel. These two part tube type wheels were a heavier duty option than any of the one piece wheel options.

I don't have a picture of either of these exact wheels, but visually each will look like the below wheel presently for sale on eBay. I'll also link a cross section diagram of the Firestone RHP. Stu

 

Thank you Stu

 

I'll work on the photos, once I get it back on the ground. I bought it from a guy that did a half *** restoration on it. I think he got a little over his head especially when it came to sheetmetal. He did strip it to the frame and blast and painted it. Engine is a full rebuild, changed to 12 volt, and most mechanical parts rebuilt or replaced OEM. He updated to front disks and dual master cylinder but never replaced the front end steering components. I just replaced the king pins, (finished today. See my post on King Pin Removal Made Easy) and other steering components and I'm in the process of rebuilding the steering box. While doing that I noticed he put in one caster shim on the right side only and its facing the wrong direction. Might partially explain the weird steering effects. I want to remove the radials he put on it and go back to bias ply or at least bias ply looking radials. I'm pulling the carpet he installed and going back to OEM vinyl. He also replaced the instrument cluster with some crappy after market junk. I've been rebuilding an original and have updated all the gauges to 12 volt replicas rather than mess with resistors. Thats almost done and will be installed after I finish with the steering box. I pulled the whole column so the interior is half apart. Once that's all done I need to concentrate on the sheetmetal. I will need some help from you guys on that part. Whatever he did he didn't do it right. Things just don't sit right.
The running boards seem too low and don't run even with the bed or the cab. Fender alignment is poor too. Oh, I also bought a set of those billet hinges in black. Although I'm trying to stay original I'm throwing in a few convince updates that won't be noticed unless you know what you are looking at.