Conversation Between bismic and AKPOWERSTROKE

Here it is:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-voltage.html

Bismic, I recently read a post where you uploaded a chart of ICP voltages. I am having a hard time finding it. Would you be able to PM the chart. I am going to rerun all the Delta's to double check to include the ICP V. Thank you Sir!

That is an unusual "cranking" IPR duty cycle (50%). When the ICP is low, the IPR duty cycle should go as high as 84% during cranking.

In general, yes - you should hear the air flow stop when the IPR is closed - just remember that it takes a little while to push all of the oil out of the HPO piping.

Since you know the ICP is not building pressure, you may hear most of the air flow stop (listening at the oil fill tube) but some air flow may still be heard because of a leak or it may be because the IPR is stuck open slightly. However, since you do not appear to be building any ICP (50 psig as a max ICP is essentially nothing IMO), the leak would have to be pretty big or it is something else (like a failed HPOP).

I would make sure that the ICP voltage is telling you the same story as the ICP pressure value.

Bismic I have a question for you. I am troubleshooting an 03 no start. truck has 210K. All indications at this point are either a very large HPO leak or an IMO an IPR not closing preventing pressure from building. ICP KOEO is 17 no start. Disco'd ICP never got above 50 same with IPR. IPR KOEO 14.7, 50 during start. Pulled filter and bowl fills within 10 seconds. Long story but here is my question

When I do the air pressure test I want to able to verify the IPR is opening and closing. I am assuming that when air pressure is applied you will here IPR dumping air into crankcase. When 12V is applied valve closes drain port and holds air. THis should indicate a good valve correct?

Oh an no CEL to indicate ICP voltage issues at this time.

As Always thank you for your time.

Glad you found it!! ..... and thanks for keeping FTE going!

So here is my follow up. The waterpump impeller was cracked the entire diameter and a chunk was missing. Thank fully that came out the lower rad hose when I drained it. Thanks for all the help Bismic. Now off to my next project

You most certainly did not come across wrong! Your post was well written. Actually, I was feeling like my post came across as condescending and I truly do not want that to happen. It is just plain difficult to problem solve over the internet!

I do agree that the water pump is very likely to be bad - your thought process is good. However, the one thing that bothers me is when I cause people to spend more money than they actually needed to, OR cause them to do a lot of unnecessary work. The longer I post on these forums, the more I try to avoid that.

That being said, the only test I know of to help identify a bad water pump is to look at the flow from the hose to the degas bottle. If it is low (or if there is none), then it is probably the pump. The exception to this is the one I mentioned in the thread - if some blockage was introduced when work was done.

If it were mine, I would probably be changing the water pump. Please keep me informed.

mark

Sorry bismic did not mean to come off wrong I highly respect your knowledge. Here is a thought tho. The general principle behind an egr cooler going bad is lack of coolant in the cooler caused by the oil cooler. What about a lack of fluid pressure caused by a bad water pump. Makes sense to me he principle is the same. Just trying to put two and two together. I am working this truck for a guy who's egr cracked. Someone else troubleshot but I believe it may have been the water pump the whole time. What do you think. Have a good day

What EGR delete kit did you install?

I seem to recall this happening to a forum member once before. IIRC he had an issue with the oil cooler rebuild.

It could be the water pump also (as you said in your thread), but for it to fail that suddenly, well it seems unusual for sure.

I wish I could remember more, I will try to do some searches for you.

Question. Cold truck, disconnected hoses from degas tank, no cap, started truck and no coolant flow out of hoses. Truck also has coolant filter. No flow. Truck idle temps fine but when driven it overheats. Your thoughts